And now for the true Maaaaiiinnne event. This was by far my favorite aspect of Maine: the hiking in Acadia National Park. While I had visions of what I thought hiking in Acadia would be like, I learned I really had no clue. Moss covers the ground like carpet. The peat and pine is all so rich, it’s a fragrance that surrounds you the minute you set foot ashore. The air is crisp. The temps are perfect (upper 60s/lower 70s for hiking), and the views are just jaw-dropping. While the lobsters and the seals and the quirky breweries and coffee shops and all of that make Maine a wonderful place to visit, the national park stole my heart when we were there. You got your hiking boots on? Let’s go!
August 2024
WoodenBoat
After we left Camden, Boothbay and the lovely Botanical Gardens, Phillip and I made our way over to Wooden Boat to anchor for the night and check out their boat-building facilities. Many of you are familiar with WoodenBoat Magazine. Well, this is where it all started. At the WoodenBoat boat-building school in Maine. Established in 1974 by Jon Wilson, the school—which welcomes boatbuilder, sailors, designers, and maritime historians—is dedicated to wooden boat design, building, maintenance and appreciation. Phillip and I were pleased to find students steaming big planks of wood to shape hulls and hammering cotton in as caulking, as we walked the facilities. We even got to see an old-timey boatbuilder melt and pour the bronze for fittings on the boat. Check out the cleat Phillip is holding. In all, the facility and skills they are teaching were impressive and eye-opening. We really enjoyed the visit, and their hospitality.
Southwest Harbor
After WoodenBoat we cruised over to Southwest Harbor to grab a ball at the Hinckley Yard. I discussed our efforts to spot and dodge lobster pots in my first Maine post if you’re curious. Our day-sails in Maine from harbor to harbor were definitely treated differently than a typical cruise for us, with both Phillip and I on keen watch for pots. We got lucky and did not hit any during our time in Maine, thankfully (although we have a cutter for that reason, that we never hope to need), but it definitely impacted how we weighed anchor and settled into our daily passages.
The Hinckley Yard had a nice mooring field where we were able to grab a ball and go ashore to walk some breathtaking neighborhoods. I saw a bunch of deer and bunnies in the morning when I would go walking and it was just an exquisite immersive experience.
One of the really cool things we liked about Mount Desert Island was also the Island Explorer Bus—a free bus!—that runs all over the island, even picking us up right near the Hinckley Yard. Phillip and I hopped on and off that thing frequently, taking it to various parts of the National Park, different trailheads and downtown areas. It was a fun, unique, and free way to enjoy the island.
And, we finally got our lobster on at Beal’s! I’ll never forget that first meal. I cracked and smashed and slathered every morsel I fished out in lemon butter. The lobster up in Maine just has a completely different taste—extremely fresh, sweet almost, and with a light, delicate texture. It was exquisite.
Somes Sound
Ahhhh … our first fjord. Well, I did learn they call it a fjard because, while it, too, is formed by glacial activity, it is shallower and less steep than a fjord. The Sound extends seven (7) miles inland from Southwest Harbor up toward Somesville, effectively splitting Mount Desert Island almost in two. This was probably our favorite anchorage area in all of Maine: Somes Sound.
There was just something about the Sound that felt so majestic and other-worldly compared to all the other cruising Phillip and I have done. With these big tall rocky cliffs forming the backdrop for our boat, the cool, rich waters we were anchored in, the colors that form the palette of Maine when I close my eyes (dark navy water, the mustard yellow of the moss on the rocks, and the lush green and grey rocky cliff of the trails above). Phillip and I anchored in several spots along the Somes Sound and found our view of the boat from the dinghy to be one of our favorite images of Ubi we’ve ever taken. Every shot looked like a poster.
We also climbed the Saint Sauveur Mountain overlooking Valley Cove. Translation: overlooking our boat! That was a really fun climb that took us most of the day—ironically because when we climbed all the way to the top then down to the bottom, we learned part of the trail was closed for renovations, so we had to climb all the way up again and all the way down. No complaints here, though. We were there for the hiking, so … c’est la hike. It was a glorious day spent in nature!
Acadia National Park is one of the most beloved national parks in the United States, known for its striking landscapes, rich biodiversity, and recreational opportunities. She certainly did not disappoint. I was impressed that every trail was so clearly marked and accessible to allow pretty much anyone who could walk the stunning views, fresh natural air, and peace and tranquility this place provides. Acadia was glorious! Here are some other peaks available for hiking, all from any anchorage on Mount Desert Island.
One of our favorite stops in Southwest Harbor was also the Common Good Kitchen, this quaint little breakfast bakery spot that is famous for its popovers. Yes, that’s a thing. An amazing, delicious, delicate thing.
But, there was even more goodness here. This little kitchen operates on a “pay-what-you-want” donation system designed to provide free, nutritious meals to locals and newcomers alike, while cultivating a sense of community and offering uplifting live music to island residents. Want a taste? Here you go!
Also, we had a buddy boat traveling with us who flew his droooonnnee, capturing these really cool shots of Ubi sailing down the Somes Sound toward Abels and Bar Harbor. Maybe the drone shots were one of the reasons the Somes Sound turned out to be one of our favorite spots in Maine. Just maybe.
Bar Harbor
If you want to get a glimpse of what if feels like to walk through a quaint little Maine town in the middle of summer: turn your AC down to 68 degrees, put on a light fleece, crank up John Denver singing Country Roads and eat blueberry ice cream. Minus the exquisite nature, that’s a pretty good replica. Bar Harbor was just as cute and quaint as Southwest Harbor (and Boothbay and Camden and all of them). But, one of our favorite stops was Abel’s for the looobbbstaaahs!
Delish. We anchored outside of Abel’s, too, at the tip of the Somes Sound and really enjoyed that anchorage. It was quite pretty and filled with several fun, fellow boaters whom we enjoyed sharing the loveliness with. From the Somes anchorage by Abel’s, we hopped back on the Island Explorer Bus and accomplished one of the coolest hikes in all of our Maine cruising. On Mount Dorr, they have a “rungs and ladders” trail—is what the National Park gal told me it was called. Check this out.
We were definitely very high up, but what I loved about the Acadia hiking is that it all felt quite safe and enjoyable—being able to climb up this high without a grueling, covered-in-sweat, extreme experience—while still getting some very pleasurable exercise and sunshine and the privilege of this exceptional view. I could hike an Acadia National Park trail everyday of my life and be happy. Every trail checked that many boxes for me. I found this pretty cool video that let’s you take the “rungs and ladders” trial vicariously. Give it a whirl and let me know what you think of an Acadia hike. : )
Glorious indeed, right?! That’s how we felt about all of Maine. Just stunning. Worth the lobster pots. Worth the cold water that I didn’t swim in (although Phillip did). Worth it all. The views, the rich biodiversity you are immersed in, the people, the blueberry everything. I loved every anchorage, hike, and morsel. But, of course, I’ve saved the best for last. Our last foray in Maine was an Outbound-boat rendezvous with a traditional waterfront lobster bake AND and an Outbound regatta. Holy moly. Stay tuned!
