Although Phillip and I are land-based now—preparing to fly to some super cool places this year Boulder, CO, Chicago, IL, and eventually Africa this summer—we’re getting many reports from our friends over in our favorite place in all the Bahamas. Yes. 700 islands and this one is our favorite. For that reason, I wanted to share it here in my “HaveWindWillTravel TO _______” series:
Harbor Island in Eleuthera, known locally as BRILAND.
I think the best way to describe it right out of the gate is: The place where you can experience the whole spectrum of adventure—from the lush to the local. Think sandy toes at a conch shack drinking an ice-cold Kalik. Then you’re in for exceptional snorkeling, swimming with turtles, kite-surfing, and horses on the grand pink Atlantic beach, before you dive into fine-dining, live music, and dancing your toes off. Yes, that’s in store. Briland offers it all, my friends. Let’s dive in!

The Perfect Entry to Harbor Island (Spanish Wells!)
In case you come to Eleuthera by boat (as many do), I would be remiss if I didn’t recommend a stop in Spanish Wells before you navigate the Devil’s Backbone (sounds monstrously scarier than it really is) into Harbor Island. Or, if you have a few days on Briland, take the ferry over one day to experience this little Bahamian gem. Why? Oh, ho ho. On that little 2 x ½ mile spit of sand you will find:
- The most gorgeous north shore beach in all of the Bahamas.
- One of the most glorious, well-stocked grocery stores in all of the Bahamas (trust me, if you’ve traveled to the Bahamas frequently you know this is a draw).
- Several quirky, cool restaurants – Wrecker’s, Buddha’s Burgers, The Shipyard, and The Sandbar (golf cart ride over to Russell Island); not to mention—my absolute favorite, worth an entire trip to the Bahamas IMHO … [drumroll please] …
- PAPA’S SCOOPS!
Last year in the Bahamas, 2025 (probably our last by sailboat, so worth remembering) we had several groups of friends fly in and converge on us at once, creating this epic, once-in-a-lifetime mega party among cruising friends. The roster:
- Our wonderful friends Stephen and Beth (featured here) were there on their amazing new SeaWind s/v Toodaloo. Yes, they do love espresso martinis, don’t you? 😂

- Mutual friends of theirs and ours, Chris and Megan (who purchased our Niagara, featured here) flew in and were staying on Toodaloo.

- One of Phillip’s very close, lifelong friends, Keith, flew in to stay on Ubi with us. Just make sure you’

- And, our amazing friends, Leo and Diane who sail on an Outbound 46 (and who saved our asses by offering us their spare riser/elbow back in 2021, featured here and here) were there on Orion as well.

In honor of this incredible convergence, we planned a dockside potluck for the books, a dinner that wrecked Wreckers, and a three-cart golf safari to Papa’s Scoops that I think did them in. And this was only the beginning of our “Briland” Adventure 2025. Spanish Wells, we love you. Muah!


































THEN … WELCOME TO BRILAND (And Why We Love It!)
For those of you coming into Harbor Island as a cruiser, by boat, hire a local pilot to navigate you through the Devil’s Backbone the first time. Woody’s is great. Ask around at Pinder’s Grocery; they’re easy to find and book. Then drop a trail that you can follow through the Backbone on your own after that.

Sailing the Harbor can be a lot of fun on your way in. You’ll pass by Man Island, which is a beautiful, remote island with a sandbar that feels like a meditative trip on the moon. Just a cool spot that charter boats can bring you over to for the day, as well from Briland.







Once in the Harbor, we like to drop our hook behind Romora’s and come in by dinghy there.


For many of you who fly in (likely into the Eleuthera Airport) one of your first forays into Briland, and maybe into the Bahamas period, might be this little conch shack. Marty’s.
Marty’s Conch Shack
He’s right on the harbor side (as opposed to the Atlantic side) looking out on the boat activity that toddles by daily. The guy’s been making conch salad since he was probably big as a coconut. And—if I had to wager—I’d say he’s probably chopped and mixed up about 1,348,792 batches of it over his lifetime. Give or take. Hanging out at Marty’s conch shack, shooting the shit with anyone who comes around (often the DJ from the night club – we’ll get there), listening to the locals swap gossip, is the perfect entry to island time and Bahamian life.













Authentic Local Life on the Harbor
While there are many high-end, super fancy, ritzy schmitzy experiences (those are all Annie terms) you can have on Harbor Island, I kind of prefer the main street right by the water, with the little trinket shops, a juice bar, clothing boutiques, the laundro-mat, you know, the local stuff! And, there’s a group of guys there always playing Dominos. I could sit and watch them slap dominos down and argue with one another all day! Just a great authentic vibe on the harbor-side.
Romora’s Top Side
This place—Romora Bay—offered four very important things for us:
- Landing spot for coming in on the dink, where you could also park your cart if you rented one (very common).
- The BEST sunset backdrop for photos in, I think I can say, all of Eleuthera at least, or it’s damn well up there – wait till you see the photos!
- The BEST frozen goombay smash on the island. Trust us, we had plenty. And conch fritters.
- Live music on the weekends. Two very talented Bahamians set up with steel drums and guitar and play all the hits. You just can’t beat it.
They offer an incredible dinner, too, with beautifully lit tables looking over the harbor. You can see we anchored Ubi right behind Romora’s (one of the two marina’s there – Valentine’s is the other). So, you also can keep an eye on your boat while you’re getting sloshed up at the bar. Win-win!












The Pink Atlantic Beach (Horses and Kitesurfing)
Now we all know there are a hundred different beaches in the Bahamas, all beautiful, all with something unique to offer. But the beach on the Atlantic side of Briland has something completely different. It’s PINK. Seriously. The sand is made up of crushed red sea shells (called foraminifera, if you’re interested and a fun little educational video here if you’re even more interested, you’re welcome). The result? A magnificently sparkling pink beach. I’m not kidding. And they groom it daily (raking off the seaweed, leaves, and debris – wouldn’t want those) so that it looks exquisite for all the ritzy folks in their high-end hotels on the Atlantic side. The benefit to you? YOU get to enjoy an immaculately groomed pink beach that is flat for miles. It’s breathtaking, stunning, the stuff mermaids’ dreams are made of. This is the beach that would draw Ariel from the ocean. It’s also the reason they walk horses along the beach for the tourists. This scene is a once-in-a-lifetime photo for sure.






But, of course, we just got savage and kitesurfed out there, mucking up their pretty little pink scene. They didn’t seem to mind, though, when they saw what we could do on the kites in the ocean. Even with our new friend Stefan (the Savage)! What a time we had out there! Harbor Island is one of our favorite places to kite, both in the Atlantic, and the Harbor.











Get Ritzy at The Dunmore
Word had it Taylor Swift had swooped through town and was going to eat at The Dunmore the same night we had made a reservation. This place is so high-end you really need to make a reservation a few days out – a week out if Ms. Swift is coming through. So, we did! Thinking we were going to get a glimpse. So, Phillip and I got all dressed up and ready for our splurge night out only to find we’d gotten the date mixed up and our reservation was actually the following weekend (when we wouldn’t even be in Harbor Island anymore). Ha! We got a big laugh out of that one. So, we never did get to eat there, but we walked through like we were something special and it looked amazing. Give it a try and tell me what you think!



Live Music at The Rock House
After they gave us the boot at The Dunmore (never breaks our spirit) we walked across the island to The Rock House(another cool evening/dinner location). The minute we walked up and heard the live music crooning us in, we knew it had all worked out exactly as it should have. The woman singing that evening was just exquisite, like cashmere pulling across your skin. Ahhhhh … Definitely catch the live music there if you get a chance.


Other Eats: Arthur’s Bakery, Da Vine, The Landing, Coffee!
Arthur’s Bakery was one of our favorite stops. You had to go early to get the good pastries and bread, as they sell out quite early in the mornings it’s that good. Robert Arthur has been baking for decades and built the place up himself. Very cool guy if you get a chance to talk with him.
Also, Chef du Cool offers BBQ and other local Bahamian fare ordered up and brought to the beach, or your boat. Some exceptionally wonderful, authentic food.
We ate at Aquapazza with Stephen and Beth (the lovely porch swing photos below). It was a wonderful Thai-themed dinner out on the veranda overlooking the Atlantic.
The Landing is an awesome laid-back brunch spot with music and a shaded outdoor patio that will keep you there till 3 pm.
Lastly, sushi at Da Vine is some of the best I’ve had in my life. And, that’s only like half the restaurants on the island. There’s no shortage.
And, there are several amazing little coffee shops to pop in and enjoy the atmosphere over a chai latte (I know I did): Cocoa Coffee and Bahamas Coffee Roasters. Not to mention, they’re still building The Briland Club which boasts endless upscale adventures, and I believe ‘em.








Swimming With the Turtles!
But let’s get to the real draw. These cute little guys. Many fellow cruisers had told us about this little turtle hole at the south end of the Harbor where lots of little sea turtles live and will come out and swim with you. Phillip and I had tried finding it many times on our own with limited luck. Then, finally, on one of our last dinghy rides through Briland in 2024, we found it. (I’ll be quiet about the details so it doesn’t get TOO revealed) but the charter boat guys take all the tourists there, so I’m not ruining anything. Once Phillip and I got the scoop we knew we were going to bring all our friends here next time. In a two-dinghy fleet we cruised down to the south end of the Harbor and had a mind-blowing morning petting and loving on these little sea creatures. Some of them being the teensiest tiniest little sea turtles I’ve ever seen! 🥹







Snorkeling
Perfectly convenient is a beautiful little snorkel spot on your way back to Romora’s after swimming with the turtles. Just a little rock out in the harbor, which is nice because it’s shallow so very easy swimming/snorkeling for all skill levels, and the water is warmer because it’s shallow (trust me that matters when you’re snorkeling in the chilly waters of the Bahamas). And, there’s a whole miniature world down there with sea cucumbers, a million little fishies, urchins, starfish. Our buddy, Keith, brought this badass little underwater, handheld scooter, too, that was so much fun to jet around with underwater. We all took a spin. In all it was just an incredible day spent out on the water with friends. We were also thrilled to hear after we got back and only spent maybe a few dollars on dinghy gasoline that the other families that had been out there with us doing the same exact thing paid a whopping $4,000 for that experience. Now, granted, that’s the only way they could do it not having their own boat or local knowledge, but boy did we feel like big dogs after learning that. Cruiser savings for the WIN!

















Dinner at Coral Sands
Yes, this place—Coral Sands—required its own complete section. I think mainly for the décor. Wait till you get a load of this! I don’t think I’ve seen more coral, pink, shells, creams, and seahorses on a Pinterest board than this place. The decorations were out of this world. The nine of us (L-R in the photo below: Stephen, Beth, me, Phillip, Megan, Chris, Diane, Leo, and Keith) booked this mega dinner there and had the time of our lives.

The “mermaids” (ladies) wandered around the property taking in all the décor, and letting our tendrils flow on the swings, of course, before we all set down at a ten-seater table for a five-course grand meal. A rousing conversation ensued where we all shared a sage piece of advice we wished we would have given ourselves ten years ago. It was a soul-fulfilling, enlightening, heartwarming evening with friends, among beauty. I will never forget that night. Many thanks to my amazing friend, Diane Schlinkert (who hosted my first book signing for Clovis, thank you – don’t miss any of that fun (Clovis Club Vol. 7) over on the Annie Dike, Author side) for setting up this unforgettable evening.







Elbow Room
My toes don’t want me to tell this story. It was pretty traumatic for them. For me and Phillip?! We had the absolute time of our lives. So, this was actually the night of our epic Dunmore fail and Rock House win. After all that traipsing around the island in pretty little wedges I then traipsed my battered toesies right into the Elbow Room and danced them clean off. Phillip and I were walking down the main strip on the harbor side (another reason that’s my favorite part of Briland) and we heard this thunderous music coming out of a little building about as big as your living room. Arms were in the air. Bodies were moving. You could smell the sweat. We entered anyway. Wedged ourselves in. Ordered up two rum punches and danced ourselves silly. There were no room for elbows. That’s why all the hands were in the air. If you go to Briland and want a night club experience, do NOT miss The Elbow Room (where no elbows fit).





#worthit!
And I would just be completely remiss if I didn’t say this. Why should YOU go to Harbor Island?? Because …
























































































































































































































































































































































































































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