And all through the boat, not a sailor was stirring on Ubi, docked and afloat.
All the work at Cobbs had been done with loving tender care, in hopes Ubi could now cruise south without a care.
Yannick, our engine, was nestled in his compartment by the loo, while visions of calm, motorable oceans danced through his ECU.
With Phillip in his watchcap and me in foulies (times ten!), we rose just after 5 a.m. to crank Yannick and begin!
Just two eager sailors here, thinking nothing will go wrong …
Because we had been given the best gift a sailor can, you see: a weather window to motor around Hatteras, yippee!
Having just had his 1,000-hr service by the “Diesel Doctor,” Josh, no less. Yannick roared right to life, ready to give it his best.
Phillip and I helped a buddy boat off the dock while Yannick happily purred, then we tossed our own lines as the inlet out of Little Creek lured.
But suddenly—midway down the channel—there was a void of clatter. YANNICK HAD STOPPED RUNNING! We didn’t know what was the matter!
After several attempts to re-crank failed, leaving us drifting about to crash, I threw out our anchor in the middle of the channel in a mad dash.
Anchored in the channel. Yes, I do take pictures when we find ourselves in a pickle. Sometimes it’s the only way to prove the crazy sh*t that happened!
“Could it be the fuel shutoff?” I asked Phillip who was banging away below. “No, cause he’s been running for half an hour!” I heard him bellow.
Phillip swapped to another of our four fuel tanks and Yannick roared back up, we hooted, cheered, and did donuts in the channel until he sadly, again, gave up.
I launched the anchor out again in the channel, just in the St. Nick of time, so we could look for filters clogged, electrical problems, pumps needing prime.
As our Hatteras window ticked away, I got desperate enough to throw a Hail Mary. “Maybe we should call the Diesel Doctor?” I asked, a bit weary.
Knowing it was now 5:30 a.m., my guess on the Doc’s willingness to answer was: He ain’t. But, then, first rang, he picked up Face Time, ready to help, and I thought: What a saint!
Although his name wasn’t Nick, Dr. Josh immediately started asking what we had seen. We ran through multiple checks and troubleshoots with him on the little phone screen.
Until finally, he offered the miracle of all miracles on a Sunday at 6:00 a.m. “Why don’t I just come by to help?” he asked and I swore I could kiss him.
“Well?” Phillip started, eyeing the channel and our dink on deck, tightly lashed. “We’ll come get you!” I shouted, knowing I could drop that dink in a New York flash.
When Phillip and Josh came buzzing back, it was almost more than I could surmise. As I saw him approach, his hefty, heaving tool bag in tow, a twinkle in his eyes.
Josh’s cheeks were little roses, all flush from the morning chill like a cherry, and, I thought to myself: There has never been a gift more merry.
Josh has eager hands, a sharp mind, and always a bag of snacks to feed his belly. During his weeks aboard Ubi, he’d worked on Yannick with real gumption and welly!
He popped down below and began tinkering, fast as an elf, while I tingled topside with fragile hope, despite myself.
Josh checked multiple pumps and filters, deeming it likely a fuel line clogged. But, he kept bleeding, priming, pumping, while we watched as he slogged.
Then Josh finally popped his head up, a bright twinkle in his eye. “I figured it out guys!” he chirped. “It’s rather silly, I’m not gonna lie.”
All of that trouble and worry and wouldn’t you know? All along it had been the fuel shutoff down in the bilge below.
At Cobb’s, work on the genset and engine likely prompted the shutoff for safety. Josh figured some vendor (himself included) simply forgot about it, acting hasty.
Although I had suggested that before we got this magical elf aboard, Yannick’s ability to run for almost an hour on fumes had us floored.
While a mistake like that, before a big voyage, might have had some feeling slighted. Having only suffered some grey hairs and an hour delay, we were extremely delighted!
He wasn’t a saint (I don’t think) but he certainly saved our voyage that day, coming so quick. If it had been closer to Christmas, I would have sworn on Josh’s arrival that he was St. Nick!
Josh packed up his bag and Phillip zipped him back to shore in Ducky, our dinghy, while I prepared to weigh anchor (in the channel) and get on with this thingy!
This was our window, our plan! With the promise of Bahamian beaches in store. Slapping the dink back on deck and getting on with it felt like the simplest chore.
As Phillip took to the helm, he gave a hearty shout and a whistle, calling his entire team to him, quick as a thistle.
Now Ubi! Now Yannick! Now Annie and Ducky! Now Dishy*! Now Maestro**! We’re fixed and feeling lucky!
Anyone awake at 6 am in the Little Creek channel would have heard him shout:
“HAPPY HATTERAS ROUNDING TO YOU ALL. THIS IS UBI. OUT!”
Right after the ordeal, finally headed toward Hatteras to continue our journey south. Hallelujah! It was a bit of a Christmas miracle!
Merry Christmas Followers!
_____________
* Our Starlink satellite dish that rides on the stern rail.
** Our autopilot, as he likes to pick songs that match our travel conditions.
So, there is this little holiday coming up called Thanksgiving. You might have heard of it. If not, you’ve at least seen the phrase “pumpkin spice” on enough sweaters, purses, signs, and Starbucks to know something’s up. For a nod to the spirit behind Thanksgiving—where we cherish loved ones and reflect on all the things we’re thankful for—I thought it would be fun to commemorate by showcasing our immense thanks for the incredible projects we were able to tackle in the shipyard at Cobb’s Marina last October/November. The results were stunning … and, according to this blog, delicious! Here’s the menu … [*ahem*] project list!
*Not Pictured: The Redneck Charcuterie Board
So, how would YOU start cooking this spread? You are absolutely right. So did we. With …
THE TURKEY:
It’s going to take the longest. That beast has to bake most of the entire day, so you better get the bird going early. For Phillip and I, our main project—that we had booked Cobb’s for in October 2024—was to remove our old Fischer Panda DC generator and replace it with a new 6k Northern Lights AC generator. Yes, you can say it. WHOO HOO! We had been fighting with “Rocky” (which we had named the Fischer Panda because he just kept getting pummeled but trying to fight). You can read more about our Rocky saga here.
Needless to say, we had put too much time and money into a generator that seemed great in theory—a quick, efficient 2-hr shot to the batteries that would give us 3-4 more days cruising—but performed terribly in reality. The fact that the tiny little toy engine inside has only one cylinder AND is mounted sideways (causing the gaskets to dry out and fail) was proving to be an unsurmountable problem. We decided it was time to upgrade, so we enlisted a phenomenal generator guy (took us months to book him) to help us at Cobb’s – Rich Napier with Atlantic Marine Generators. Can’t say enough amazing things about Rich. If you’re lucky enough to have him do work on your boat … well, good for you. Our first project at Cobb’s started with the removal of Rocky—say “Buh-bye Rocko!”—so we could get the new bird in the oven and start making Turkey day snacks!
REDNECK CHARCUTERIE BOARD
So, I don’t know how you guys’ Thanksgivings used to go down. Back in Clovis, New Mexico we would have all the folks over to someone’s house where we all worked together whipping up the traditional dishes, starting with a redneck charcuterie board, complete with Easy Cheese and those fancy plastic toothpicks shaped like little swords. My God, my brother, John, and I had so much fun playing with those. I know we each stabbed each other at least once, about a half-inch in. Thank God Mom never found out. Let’s have some fun with this shall we. To help fill out your imagination: Me and my brother, John, sometime during our miniature sword-stabbing age. You’re welcome.
Wow, look at my Little House on the Prairie dress with the frilly sleeves. Nice pick, Annie.
Thanksgiving was the only time of year I can remember us eating whole black olives (one off each finger), little Gerkins that looked like little shrunk cucumbers, and Hillshire farm sausages. I don’t know about you, but those healthy flavors always remind me of Thanksgiving. And, these lovely appetizers—which we didn’t yet know to call a charcuterie board, that would come way later—we called a “snack tray” and John and I could make it ourselves. So, in honor of that DIY start to Thanksgiving, I give you my DIY projects:
And, it must be noted that the “Y” in our DIY was most definitely Yours Truly. Phillip had a big trial he was gearing up for at that time, so I was Project Manager at Cobb’s. I do have to include one incredible shout-out to the fine folks there (Mike, Linda, Jack, all you guys!) because they looked after me, checked on me, did me favors, and were just generally awesome people to work with. We can’t recommend Cobb’s enough for boat projects, particularly with Outbounds as they used to commission them. They are a super knowledgeable, efficient, no-nonsense bunch. I was thrilled to be in such good hands, particularly being alone on the boat for three weeks at the yard.
I spent my first week there knocking out all of my little DIY projects – mostly cleaning, polishing, organizing, painting, ordering and logging supplies and spares, things like that. Most of my days looked like this.
And, because Phillip and I were apart, we always send photos to one another often to “share” dinners, grab a coffee “together,” share what shows we’re watching, and photograph sunrises and sets, etc. I also enjoyed walking this lovely neighborhood by the shipyard everyday where the folks got pretty crafty and creative with their Halloween lawn decorations. Had to share those with Phillip. The northern lights were also visible during that time and the guys at the shipyard caught some great photos. In all, I enjoyed my time there.
CHECK ON THE TURKEY
Over the course of the second week, I moved Ubi (yes, me) over to the dock next to the yard so we could have the crane drop the new generator in. As I mentioned the entire team at Cobb’s (operating under the watchful eye of Mike Cobb) was exceptionally professional and got the generator in without a single hitch. Rich was watching. Shipyard Annie was squealing. It was a great day.
The bird is looking good, my friends! Let that golden guy keep roasting while we focus on the sides. What’s next?
CORNBREAD DRESSING
There’s a reason I’m assigning this to the engine work. In my years making and eating Thanksgiving dinners, I’ve always found the dressing is the most fickle. It’s either amazing or awful (too dry or too mushy, too salty or too bland). I think this is because you have to have the right type of cornbread base, the right level of moisture, and the perfect amount of flavor. Anything is off in these three and your dressing will taste like Stovetop (sorry Stovetop, nothing against your little hard tack square croutons you call dressing but it just ain’t my Big Mom’s). In our experience, the same is true with a good marine vendor. If they don’t communicate, or do shoddy work, or you just can’t get them on your boat – it’s awful. Finding the trifecta is a wondrous moment, and—friends, I’m here to tell you, we did at Cobb’s.
This young buck, “Josh the Diesel Doctor,” did not disappoint. Now, he did have us scratching our heads a bit and wondering, at times, whether he would come through. But, the point is he did—at extremely odd hours, mind you, I once had him on the boat with me from 9:00 p.m. to 3:00 a.m. working. True story. But, I wasn’t going to stop him. I can sleep on a passage. I can’t go on passage without an engine so … I was fine with that. Work on, Josh. Because this guy was one of the most diligent and thorough engine guys I’ve ever met.
Josh spotted, at least, a dozen other things (completely non-engine related) that needed to be fixed, changed, cleaned up, etc. while he was nosing down in there doing the important work he did. One of which was the shaft seal – we’ll get there. Josh also performed the following spotless work on Ubi’s engine, a Yanmar we lovingly call Yannick.
ENGINE WORK
Drain main engine coolant
Remove main engine heat exchanger & engine after cooler
Remove and replace coolant circulate water pump with new that was supplied by customer with all new gaskets
Replace thermostat and thermostat gasket
Reassemble main engine with heat exchanger and Aftercooler (assembled with all new O-rings and coated housing with Teflon grease to stop salt water corrosion around aluminum housing)
Refilled engine with OEM Yanmar extended life coolant and pressure tested coolant system up to 15psi & checked for any leaks in cooling system while under pressure – there were no leaks at that time
Removed & replaced 5/8 coolant hose between main engine and hot water heater
Replaced plastic 3/4 pipe fitting on the hot water heater to fix coolant leak discovered while replacing hoses
Cleaned rusty areas on engine, then primed and painted as needed
Inspected shaft dripless seal and recommended to be replaced by yard
YEARLY SERVICE
Drain and replace main engine & transmission oil
Replace main engine oil filter, secondary fuel filter, primary fuel filter, as well as raw water impeller
Ran engine at the dock, checked for any leaks, ensure main engine had good raw water flow, shut down engine and checked all levels – there were no leaks at that time and engine performed as it should
While completing Yearly Service, inspected all mounts, hoses, belts, & clamps
Wipe down and installed new oil absorbs under main engine and transmission to make it easier to see any leaks in the future, also labelled all filters with date and hours of service
You see what I mean? I believe he is a doctor. Thank you again, Josh! And, we also have an incredible story coming up next on this blog involving Josh that’s … whew, quite a story. Stay tuned for our next HaveWind installment:The 5 AM Service Call That Saved Our Hatteras Passage.
Alright, cornbread dressing is covered, what’s next?
SWEET POTATO CASSEROLE
I call this one the sweet potato casserole because it’s just not Thanksgiving without this dish for me. It’s probably one of my favorites. I’m not a huge sweets person. I’m a savory one. But, that means when you throw a little sweet on my dinner plate, I cherish it even more. My Thanksgiving plate is not in any way complete without a pillowy little mound of orange goodness known as sweet potatoes topped with charred little marshmallows (it’s not a sweet potato casserole to me any other way). Same is true for us and a visit to the shipyard. It will never (ever!) be complete without a haul-out and fresh coat of bottom paint for Ubi. Always.
Bottom Job at Cobb’s 2023, before we took off again around Hatteras:
Bottom Job at Cobb’s 2024:
But, as any good boat owner will probably tell you, once you decide to haul-out, what’s the very next thing you decide to do? That’s right. Start your “While we’re hauled out” list. There are only certain things you can do while hauled out of the water, so we try to maximize. On our list in that department was also a rebuild and re-greasing of our auto prop, replacement of our cutlass bearing, and rebedding of a thru-hull (for our manual bilge pump in the port lazarette) that was threatening to leak. “While you’re out” right? Ahhh … seeing this work done is the perfect blend of salty and sweet!
Okay, now Ubi’s bottom is ready to splash. What’s next?
GREEN BEAN CASSEROLE
Now this was a staple in our family growing up. You had to have the cream of mushroom soup (which does not eat well on it’s own – ask me how I know that), the green beans, and those little fried onions that go on top. It’s a staple. What else is a staple on our boat? Ground tackle. Just like the green bean casserole it’s tried and true. We have a 75-pound Rocna and 200 feet of chain that we throw out often, which means we keep a close eye on the health our chain and ground tackle. During this stint, we decided to drop all 200 feet of chain and end-over-end it to freshen up the lead. I also changed out the shackles connecting the chain to the anchor for good measure, and replaced our tired snubber with a brand new one since we had the spare line for it aboard.
And, who doesn’t love a shiny new snubber, am I right? Apparently, this Shipyard Vixen loves it! Gets her swinging from the rafters. Yeehaw!
I have to admit to being a little nervous the first time we anchored Ubi in a little blow having done all this ground tackle work myself, but I’m proud to report she held just fine—even with our classic “swing and yank” we call it—where Ubi swims around a bit in high winds then does this Grrnnggghhh YANK on the chain that will make you cringe … IF you don’t trust your ground tackle. I can say for certain: there was no cringing on Ubi after this work. Way to go Annie!
Wait … did you hear that? I did!
DING! THE TURKEY IS DONE!
Rich came back to the boat just about every two days to do some work on the generator. I ran all the cables through the lockers from the work room in our starboard lazarette to the generator panel at the nav station. As you can see from the photos, several holes were pretty tight. I also had an inkling while I was in these lockers—several of which we access daily for various toiletry and cleaning products—and thought, what the heck. Why not paint them? I did this on our old boat, the 1985 Niagara 35, and it was a complete game-changer. Pics of me painting on the Niagara.
What I learned from doing it on the Niaraga was: it is 100% totally worth the minimal work for such a clean, gratifying reward. For that reason, the decision to do it on Ubi was a no brainer. I have yet to regret this decision.
While I was working diligently on the wiring, Rich was toiling away in the workroom making our install look incredible—cleaner and more polished looking than some new-build Outbounds. He placed a new panel for the generator where the rest of our internal instruments are located at the nav station that looked like it had been there all along. Overall, Rich’s install was clean, smart, and quite impressive. We were very pleased with his work.
When Rich fired up the generator for the first time, and I heard him roar to life, I knew exactly what his name was going to be. What boxer really gave Rocky a pummeling, huh?
Screenshot
That’s right. We named our new generator, CREED (complete with a commemorative bobblehead doll that sits next to him in the workroom), and every time we fire him up Phillip and I sing this good ole’ James Brown gem at the top of our lungs:
No, I’m not kidding. We do sing that. Every time. We really get into our “cast of characters” on the boat: Ubi, Yannick, Creed (formerly Rocky or Rocko, and then even more formerly Gremlin), our old dinghy (Ducky) and our new dinghy (Gator). If you don’t name these guys, you won’t be able to properly curse them out when they fail or praise them when they run. That’s the whole point.
CRANBERRY SAUCE
Ha! I had to save this one for the last meal item because, at our Thanksgivings, the cranberry sauce is often left to my wonderful brother, John, to bring, and my wonderful brother is many things (wonderful being one, obviously. Fabulously gay being another. Handsome. Smart. Hilarious. He’ll want me to say all these things). But, always on time and 100% reliable, my wonderful brother, John, is not. (Sorry Bro-Lo). And, he’s often forgot the cranberry dressing and, as a direct result, we’ve found ourselves—he and I—running around town during that last half hour before dinner trying to find that glorious can of cranberry “sauce” (probably more like cranberry skins and processed jelly) so we could “shlooook” it out of the can, with can imprints and all, onto a little plate for the big dinner. Don’t get me wrong. The cranberry dressing is super necessary—Thanksgiving turkey is not near as salty and savory without that little maroon zing—but it’s often a last-minute thing that has to be handled in a chaotic panic right before dinner. At my house anyway.
Cue … our shaft seal. This was something Josh, the engine guy, actually picked up on. Our PSS marine shaft seal has a little hose that runs up (above the water line) where it is affixed to the bulkhead to allow the seal to “burp” as needed. Around the base of the hose, Josh noticed it had been leaking. Although I clean it every few weeks, I noticed, too, when he pointed it out, that the rust and corrosion had increased and the leak seemed much worse.
I asked the awesome guys at Cobb’s about it and, once we’d learned that particular shaft seal was original to the boat—meaning almost ten years old—they recommended we replace it. NOW, they made that recommendation even though we only found the shaft seal problem mere days before I was set to splash. These guys could have said “that’s fine; you don’t need to replace it” and stayed on schedule. They did not do that. Instead, they looked out for ME and rushed everything—much like my brother does with the cranberry goo—to make sure I had a new shaft seal installed perfectly before we splashed.
The best way I could think of to repay them (and Ubi) was to clean and paint the areas they had to work in. It turned out to be a great idea, and this is now an area of the boat I love to spend time in. I got a little paint-happy (blame it on the fumes) and just went ahead and painted the whole work room while I was in there. Love me some Bilge-Kote!
Oh, and I brought them a wheelbarrow of beer my last day at the yard. That was fun giving it to them. Thanks for all the help Cobb’s guys. You rock!
PUMPKIN AND PECAN PIES
Saving the best for last! Or at least the sweetest reward. We splurged this time and went ahead and had the entire top side (hull sides AND the deck) polished to a shine. This guy Charles who works out of Cobb’s was phenomenal and he busted his hump over several weeks to knock this out for us. It was definitely a satisfying, most glorious end to our time in the shipyard. Just like Thanksgiving pies: a sweet, sweet, finish!
Now, don’t you all feel satisfied and full? What a glorious Thanksgiving treat that was. Next up—as I mentioned—I’ll share an incredible harrowing story from our trip around Hatteras last November.
I hope you all have a wonderful Thanksgiving, enjoy time with your friends and family, and reflect on what you are thankful for this year. We hope you enjoyed this fun, festive boat projects blog. Ubi is ready to cruise ‘round the world with Creed!
Oh, and, were any of you clever readers wondering about the wishbone? I bet some of you were. That was our wallet. Right after we paid the shipyard bill, it went. *SNAP*
As I sat down to write this month’s fun HaveWind installment, I’ll admit to getting swept away in a little Halloween nostalgia, as it’s probably one of mine and Phillip’s favorite holidays. Fun fact about us: WE LOVE TO DRESS UP. While we are currently doing our proper Halloween diligence poking through thrift stores and scouring eBay to find the right—nay, the perfect!—accessories for our 2025 costumes I was inspired to share a few features from our HaveWind Halloween History. Before we dig into the fun, a little housekeeping as I know you all have been watching my new Author garden grow. Here’s what’s going down in AnnieLand.
What’s Going On Here at HaveWind:
The good news: nothing will change here. I will continue to share our fun sailing and cruising travel content via this blog and @havewindwilltravel on Instagram. If you don’t have a keen interest in following my author content, no worries at all. Just sit tight. However, I will be sending my first ever Author email to all of my HaveWind followers this week with links where you can follow my new author content if you would like. If you would not, please unsubscribe when you get the author email. You’re not going to hurt my feelings at all. I only want to send my author content to folks who want to receive it. It’s quite the journey going from an idea in your head to an actual published book THAT actually sells, a little. If that—or my writing—intrigues or entertains you, follow my author content at:
I think Captain Phillip—also known as Captain Stubing in this particular clip—said it best:
It’s true. You never know what you’re going to get into while cruising. Especially with us. I can’t tell you how many times Phillip and I dressed up aboard … AND goaded others into dressing up with us. We’ll get to the Boozer Cruisers, just you wait. That Love Boat is coming. But, let’s get some order going here. Start at the top.
2024: Evil Circus Ringmaster and His Naughty Tiger
Last year we had just wrapped our epic Outbound Rendezvous in Maine, and it was our first season to ever cruise in Maine as well, which was an experience so mind-blowing I shared it over several posts here (Portland, Camden/Boothbay, Bar Harbor/MDI). Maine was probably the pinnacle of our last few years cruising, the jewel in our east coast crown. It was such a lush, rich, rewarding experience shared with incredible friends with whom I know we have forged lifelong bonds. Many of the ladies I was always walking and bonding with on those gorgeous hikes in Maine are some of the very ones who encouraged me in my writing journey and were my first beta readers of Clovis. You know who you are. Thank you ladies.
After our summer in Maine came to an end, Phillip and I started making our way back down the east coast headed toward Norfolk, VA (Little Creek to be more exact) to Cobb’s Marina, where we were scheduled to have some pretty significant work done. We installed a brand new Northern Lights 6K generator last October, which I’ll be sharing here at HaveWind next. It was a sweet install. While we have celebrated Halloween in Norfolk before (it’s a fun place for it), this last year we scurried home to Pensacola for a rockin’ Halloween party with friends. You’ll probably remember our boat broker, Kevin—I toured his incredible 1982 Pearson 36 many moons ago here. He and his wife, Laura, made fabulous Halloween partners in crime. Phillip was an evil circus ringmaster and I was his naughty tiger. ROWR.
2023: I Dream of Jeannie and Major Roger Healey
Who dreams of Jeannie? We do! Phillip and I went for a pretty spot-on Jeannie and well … we had a little mishap with our costume accessories and Jeannie’s reputation suffered for it. Sorry, Jeanie. We were planning for Phillip to be Jeannie’s love interest—USAF Major Tony Nelson—but we didn’t Google it correctly or there was alcohol involved and Jeannie went off on a pretty public foray with Army Major Roger Healey. Whoops. But, fun was certainly had in Charleston. We often end a night there at the Cocktail Club—where the drinks knock even me on the floor—and were thrilled to find ourselves falling into this beautiful bouquet of Disney princesses there. Thanks for the fun ladies!
2022: Genie and a Fireman
Funny thing about that genie idea. It actually started in 2022, where we were staying on Ubi in Portsmouth, VA for about six weeks having generator work done (that’ll tie in later, trust me). They had this incredible thrift store there in Portsmouth that was stuffed with Halloween costumes. You could find that weird leather hat you need for a steam punk costume. Those red sparkle heels for a naughty nurse (or Dorothy from the Wizard of Oz—we prefer costumes, or just about anything, really, that does double duty). Even … a full length fireman’s jacket (that doubles as a mad scientist) and poofy blue genie pants (that double as M.C. Hammer). The costumes that year were pretty rag-tag, but that made them all the more fun. You’ll see the gold sparkle heels did pass the test for the genie outfit the following year. We teamed up with fellow Outbounders, Peter and Patty (featured here multipletimes), in 2023 for an awesome Talking Heads cover band in Norfolk. It was incredible!
And, for even further proof we love to dress up, the four of us even did it completely outside of Halloween just to go skating in retro seventies getups with glow sticks and rave necklaces in Greenport on Shelter Island, NY when we were buddy boating then with P&P. I’m starting to think we have a little bit of a problem.
2020: Tiger King … and His Naughty Tiger (obviously)
In 2020, we had to be what everybody in the world was watching on Netflix (because everyone in the world was watching Netflix). Tiger King! Any time we put hair on Phillip, I lose it. The man rocks any wig. I’m not kidding. This mullet was a keeper. Keep an eye on that sparkly disco-style shirt. You’ll see it later, too. I mentioned the double duty.
2019: The Cast of Stranger Things
Annnnd what was everyone watching in 2019? You guessed it. Stranger Things! I made a pretty wicked Eleven—including her box of Leggo waffles (it’s all about the details), while Phillip and I roped our amazing friends Stephen and Beth into rounding out our Stranger Things crew. Jesus did we have fun that night, rocking things out in downtown Pensacola. Thank you S&B for making it a night to remember … as well as forget!
2018: Little Red Riding Hood
We call this one Phillip’s “run over dog” wig. It has actually played several roles: a wayward werewolf, that strange Wilfred character from the Daniel Radcliffe show Wilfred, and almost Joe Exotic’s mullet but we couldn’t quite stuff it right under the hat. In this one, its original purpose, it played the Big Bad Wolf grandma-style to my sexy Red Riding Hood.
Again, though, notice how Phillip really pulls off any wig. The man is a genius!
Let the Boozer Cruiser portion of this Halloween tour begin! We did host two pretty epic, went-down-in-history, “Boozer Cruisers” back in Pensacola before Phillip and I really started cruising further and abroad. We would coordinate with 5-7 other boats in the anchorage where each boat would dress up and decorate their boat with a theme (including themed drinks or snacks that they served) and spend the evening dinghying around to everyone’s boats and enjoying the costumes, décor, and delicious treats. It was an epic event filled with memories, shenanigans, completed unexpected turns of events, surprise cameos, you name it. Our Boozer Cruisers were wild and something we will never regret having done. At one point we had 35 people aboard Plaintiff’s Rest. 35 folks on a 35-footer. That’s probably thirty too many, but we did it.
The videos from these crazy Halloween throwdowns pretty much speak for themselves. Several folks in the anchorage didn’t even know about the event until we settled on the hook and told them—one would be BaBaLu from the intro video—but they were able to participate in the tremendous fun. Why?? Because they followed Cruisers’ Rule #14: Always Carry a Costume Aboard. That year, 2017, Phillip and I dressed up as Captain Stubing and Julie McCoy from The Love Boat offering The Love Boat’s iconic cocktail “The Isaac” served on our “lido deck” (aka Plaintiff’s Rest topside). Only problem was, Julie kept losing pieces of her costume throughout the night until she turned into a puddle of business clothes in the cockpit the morning after. Like I said: fun was had.
This will probably be one of the most memorable Halloweens of our life, kicking off the Boozer Cruisers and introducing us to this wild cast of characters who hang out at Ft. McRee in Pensacola. Even in crazy Baywatch gear, we fit right in. We also ended the night on a total stranger’s boat. Some guy who just rolled into the anchorage and was happy to let us (and 30 of our closest friends) completely crash his boat and drink his booze. Now half the chicks were half-dressed, so that helps. But, damn did we have fun!!
2015: Pirates! Arrrgggghhh!
This is back when our cruising had just started and we were venturing around new parts of Pensacola—Pirate’s Cove being one. They hosted this kickass Halloween party that year and a fundraiser for the Point Yacht Club where little Author Annie (yes, I guess I have been doing this a while) hosted a book-signing to help with the event. Our long-time friends Brandon and Christine know how to do pirates, right — all the way down to the little ones. It doesn’t take much for any cruiser to become a pirate. Just add rum. Lol.
Again, fun was had. And, I have to admit to having a little nostalgic moment watching me way back then pursuing my writing and pushing my books. Go little books, go! If you really love to write, I guess you just never quit. For those who haven’t yet checked out Clovis, what the hell are you waiting for? Ha!
HalloweenCirca 1988
Since we’re on the Clovis topic for a bit, here is a fun pic of me and my brother, John (known in the book as “Jude”) getting our Halloween on back in Clovis, New Mexico. That is one sexy little fairy and a fat hobo clown, circa 1988. Yeah baby! For anyone who knows me and my brother, though—or has read Clovis—you’ll know we should have swapped outfits. Hahahahahaa!!!
2025! Yeah Baby!
Which brings everything back full circle. While we’ve got several costumes planned this year (that’s not uncommon at all—I told you we treat this holiday like professionals), our first was a flamboyant disco duo where we teamed up with Brandon and Christine who were sexy pilots (anyone get the Capt. Striker reference Brandon sported on his name tag?) for a local Halloween bash. I’m pretty sure Phillip was assaulted by no less than six women who had to run their fingers through his incredibly tall hair. I’m telling you, the man can rock any wig. And, look, there’s that Joe Exotic sparkle shirt. You didn’t forget about it, did you? The double duty is key.
Hope you all have a fun Halloween planned yourself. What’s everyone dressing up as? Next up here at HaveWind, we’re going to share the immense list of work we did on Ubiquitous back in Cobb’s Marina in the fall of 2024–where Yours Truly stood in as project manager as Phillip was in trial. It was an interesting, arduous time and it includes the removal of our Fischer Panda generator for the install of a new Northern Lights 6K generator. Yeah baby! Stay tuned!
Yes, you read that correctly. A whole book, beginning, middle, even an end! Can you believe it? Kidding. Although it is what I AM most excited about, I’m sure you’re really here for the boat news. That’s big, too. In honor of this new chapter, I even dusted off Video Annie for our announcement video. She was rusty!
However, for those of you who don’t love to get your information via video (*ahem* … ME), you can skim—as fast as you’d like—the video script below. If that’s you, I totally get it. Scroll on down. Most importantly: the “Big News” takeaway? There’s one of two things we need you to do:
It’s up to you! Ha! Phillip and I are thrilled about my new book, our new travel destinations, and this new cool chapter in our lives. I hope to hear from some of you readers out there. It would mean the world to me if you read, left a review, and shared Clovis with your friends, family, or followers. For those of you with a bunch of Facebook friends or any kind of following, PLEASE SHARE on your platform. Thank you. Phillip and I look forward to seeing you somewhere out there. Au revoir! Bonjour! Or … hola! (You’ll see they’re all the same to Video Annie, lol : ).
HUGE NEWS: I’ve Published a New Book and We’re Selling Our Boat
Man, we’ve had one hell of a time out here cruising. Phillip and I have laid down thousands of blue water miles. Witnessed unforgettable sights. Challenged each other. Laughed our asses off. We’ve been lucky to be able to live a life of travel for almost fifteen years. But, the real gift has been the people we’ve connected with out here—adventurous spirits, big dreamers with insane courage, beautiful, bruised hearts. Some are retired CEOs, doctors, helicopter mechanics, nurses, professors, musicians, you name it. There’s always the guy with every spare imaginable, the gal who will roll up her sleeves and help you clean the bilge. The writers, the builders, even the ones we’ve had to say goodbye to. We’ve met so many people who continue to love and give to others, even though they’ve lost so much themselves.
These past few years cruising on Ubiquitous, I’ve become fascinated with their stories, their origins. My own included. Because I think we can all ask ourselves:
What makes you who you are?
Is it the larger than life characters from your past, or your childhood, your teen years? The heroes? The villains? The mentors? The realization—perhaps—when you grow up that you had those mixed up? Is it the events, the loves, the losses? Or, is it a feeling that deep down you are different, an imposter, only to find later you were never really as different as you thought?
My story began nowhere near salty oceans or distant shores. I grew up in the dusty fields of Clovis, New Mexico. My dad was a rodeo star turned long-haul cattle driver. Fun-loving, had his own demons, but a good soul. My mom worked thirty years for the health department. She was a fierce chain-smoking woman who forged me into steel. They were divorced, which left my brother and me shuffling from trailer to hotel to trailer with our duct-taped Duffel bag and box of LEGOs.
But these events shaped me. They are my deepest roots, and—over the past two years—they’ve possessed me, pretty much, compelled me to write them down and weave them together into my best story yet. I am more proud of this book than any book, blog, or article I have ever written.
Clovis is my debut literary fiction novel. It follows Callie—a not so disguised version of me—as she claws her way out of the dusty soil of Clovis, New Mexico with her enigmatic brother, her beautifully flawed parents and childhood friends, as she finds herself, navigates complicated relationships, suffers losses greater than I have even felt in my life but I wanted to convey love, change, and new chapters.
The feedback I have received so far from, all of my cruising friends as I have mentioned, these diverse, rich people, from all walks of life have reached out to me and enjoyed the story. They’ve shed tears over characters I’ve created, which is pretty mesmerizing. And, they’ve compelled me to share. I’m doing this on my own, rather than the traditional publishing route, because I believe in people, and cutting out middlemen, and doing this on my own and having my own project. This is part of my new chapter as well is promoting the book and writing others. I’ve got a lot more novels in me. I hope you all, especially if you’re readers or if know people who love to read, if you want a story with heart, please pick up Clovis. Read her, leave a review, and share. That’s all I ask. Five to ten friends, if you love it, please ask them to read and share. I just want her to grow and soar and take off on her own. She is a gorgeous story and I am very proud.
Thank you.
And, you also, you did read that right. This is not any click bait. We are selling Ubiquitous.
I know, right? It was a tough decision. Phillip and I just have so many places we want to see, adventures we want to go on, people we want to visit and spend quality time with, that we just can’t do it all by boat and while owning and maintaining a boat like Ubiquitous the way she deserves. So, we’re on to a new chapter—of international travel, maybe living abroad for a bit.
I hope you all are onto amazing chapters and adventures yourselves. If you know anybody in the market for an incredible, f&*cking amazing boat (pardon my French, but it’s my video), there’s a link below. Check out her listing. I’m hoping she’s sold by the time I’ve posted this and I’ll have to tell you “Sorry.” That would be great news, but we’ll see.
Phillip and I will be out there. Like I said, we’ve got on the books. God, what’s on the short list? Maybe skiing in Austria. Doing the French canals by boat. African safari’s on the short list. Vietnam, Cambodia, a cruise to Alaska. A summer in Montreal. We just got back from Montreal. It was amazing.
So, all these adventures in store. Who wouldn’t be excited? These are wonderful things. We’ve had a fantastic time cruising by sailboat. We are definitely okay with, and at peace with, putting that down for a bit and starting a new chapter.
So, that’s the big news! I thought it called for a little cameo of Video Annie. She’s still as quirky as ever and will say anything. I’ve had to do a thousand takes of this, so we’re going to wrap it up! We’ll continue to post here—Have Wings Will Travel—maybe just for a little bit. I imagine we’ll get back into boating. I can’t keep Phillip away from saltwater, so you’ll probably see us out there in a different form in a few years. Who knows? Right now, we’re getting off and going around the world. Au revoir! Bonjour! What’s another one? Hola! That’s the only Spanish one I know.
What’s the most common thing you hear about travel, boating, or even cruising specifically? What really makes cruising so special? The places? The boats? I’m sure you’re probably guessing where I’m going. What were you going to say? That’s right.
THE PEOPLE.
It’s the people that make it. You meet such incredibly diverse, interesting, funny, capable, courageous, quirky people while cruising. And, only by cruising do you meet such a wide range of people—from all ages, backgrounds, jobs, and cultures—with whom you can connect so immediately because of your bond over boats. That is, you have chosen to travel the world by boat and take on all the challenges and rewards that presents. The lifestyle itself creates an instant, undeniable connection.
This event, the last big item on our Maine 2024 list, a first-ever rendezvous of Outbound boats and their owners in Harpswell, ME, was no different. What made it? Say it with me …
THE PEOPLE!
August 2024
Three Islands in the New Meadows River, Maine
When the planning of this rendezvous was in its mere whisper phases—in the spring of 2024—Phillip and I had no idea what to even expect in Maine. Sure, folks can tell you about the gorgeous scenery, the succulent lobster and seafood, the hikes, the bikes, the friendly people, but you really have to go and experience it for yourself to truly get it. The glorious world of nature that opened up for us as we cruised through Maine could only be topped by a get together with a dozen other like-minded, incredibly diverse Outbound owners for a traditional lobster bake, boat rally, and fiercely competitive regatta.
The Outbound owners who dreamed this up—the notorious and now infamous Meg and Sandy aboard s/v Kennebec—were brave enough to invite a pack of wild boat owners to their family home in Maine in late August, 2024 for an Outbound rally.
Having never met anyone who had a “family home in Maine,” I expected to see a three story, glossy mansion with huge pillars in the front, eighteen foot ceilings, and perhaps lion sculptures on the porch, or maybe they’d be seal pups shooting water into a front-yard fountain (I have a vivid imagination), I was far more pleased with what I got—a comfortable, well-appointed, lived-in and happily used family home that offered the perfect backdrop for a fun, heartwarming lobster-infused get together.
When we first started pointing Ubiquitous toward the New Meadows River in mid-August of last year—after gorging ourselves on Portland, Camden, Boothbay Harbor, Bar Harbour, Mt. Desert Island and the like—we started chatting with our close friends and fellow Outbound owners, Leo and Diane, on s/v Orion. If you recall, Leo, was the Outbound owner who literally saved our very first cruising season on Ubiquitous back in 2021 when we were in desperate need of a new riser/elbow. Leo offered us his spare riser/elbow before even meeting us because that’s absolutely the guy he is. Leo has garnered such a reputation in the Outbound community—having met several other Outbound and other boat owners in the same manner, i.e., by offering them a desperately-needed helping hand or spare—that folks joke he has a spare for anything. “Need to change out your head? Go ask Leo, he may have a spare toilet aboard” became the running joke among Outbounders. With his heart of gold, smile of a thousand watts, and quick, adventurous wit, Leo is a standout in the Outbound community. Along with his wife, Diane, with her artistic flair, warm, welcoming heart, and never-ending thirst for “fun things to do,” the crew of Orion is always an enviable guest in boat gatherings.
Leo, Diane, me, and Phillip having dinner aboard Ubi after the raft-up.
Leo and Diane came up with the fun idea for the four of us—aboard Ubiquitous and Orion—to raft up for the first night in the New Meadows River and host a cocktail hour for all the Outbounders who came to the rendezvous. We were expecting 15-20+ people on each boat and the ideas for interesting cocktails, nibbles, host gifts, décor, etc. began to brew in the days leading up to the rendezvous. Diane is an expert party planner and she made découpage seashells for everyone as a parting gift. Phillip came up with the idea of a frameable map (of the area where the Outbound rendezvous was hosted) for all owners to sign and gift to Meg and Sandy for hosting. All told, the four of us—Leo, Diane, Phillip, and I—had a smashing time playing party hosts! The raft-up was a big hit and introduced us to a dozen more Outbound owners whom we now call close friends and communicate with regularly.
The next day, everyone gathered at Meg and Sandy’s place for a traditional lobster bake. This was the first lobster bake I had ever attended, and I had NO CLUE they would literally dig a hole in the ground for the fire and lay seaweed and a bed of fresh lobsters on top to steam right there atop the moist Maine soil. This country girl damn sure approved! Those lobsters were some of the best I’ve eaten in my life. And there were plenty. I think we each had at least two. Some had three! I’m not at liberty to say who, only that … it was worth it. ; )
The incredible team from Collection Yachts, who manufactures and sells Outbounds, also came to join us and brought every boat in attendance some custom Collection swag and goodies. Having John, Michael, Tate, and the entire Collection team in attendance made the event even more fun.
But, after the congenial festivities, we had to get serious. We all have sailboats for a reason, am I right? What is that reason?
Well, for men, it’s often … TO RACE! Ha! The third day of the rendezvous was devoted to an Outbound exclusive regatta around three points set up in the New Meadows River. There was some fierce competition—particularly in the startup—among the Outbound skippers with some strategic tacking, creative cursing, and somewhat-friendly heckling (lol), but it all ended in a sportsmanlike finish and great fun for all who sailed in the race. Although I captured a few quality shots during the race, the Collection Yachts team employed an incredible photographer—Cory Silken out of Newport—to come and photograph both the race and the rendezvous and put together a glossy, high-quality photo book from the rendezvous that every owner was grateful and humbled to get. What a memento from an unforgettable time with new and old friends.
All told, Phillip and I could not have sailed away from the Outbound rendezvous more fulfilled and excited about all the adventures we have ahead, both in our amazing boat Ubiquitous, and with our new set of hilarious, adventurous, resourceful friends. What more could cruisers ask for? Our time in Maine definitely solidified for us that we are spending our years wisely—among people who feel and think like us and are driven to savor every experience available. Cruisers are not afraid to get their hands dirty. They don’t let unexpected obstacles dampen their mood, or their drive. And, they simply have the best stories. Period. No matter how and where we travel, for Phillip and I, it will always be about the people.
And now for the true Maaaaiiinnne event. This was by far my favorite aspect of Maine: the hiking in Acadia National Park. While I had visions of what I thought hiking in Acadia would be like, I learned I really had no clue. Moss covers the ground like carpet. The peat and pine is all so rich, it’s a fragrance that surrounds you the minute you set foot ashore. The air is crisp. The temps are perfect (upper 60s/lower 70s for hiking), and the views are just jaw-dropping. While the lobsters and the seals and the quirky breweries and coffee shops and all of that make Maine a wonderful place to visit, the national park stole my heart when we were there. You got your hiking boots on? Let’s go!
August 2024
WoodenBoat
After we left Camden, Boothbay and the lovely Botanical Gardens, Phillip and I made our way over to Wooden Boat to anchor for the night and check out their boat-building facilities. Many of you are familiar with WoodenBoat Magazine. Well, this is where it all started. At the WoodenBoat boat-building school in Maine. Established in 1974 by Jon Wilson, the school—which welcomes boatbuilder, sailors, designers, and maritime historians—is dedicated to wooden boat design, building, maintenance and appreciation. Phillip and I were pleased to find students steaming big planks of wood to shape hulls and hammering cotton in as caulking, as we walked the facilities. We even got to see an old-timey boatbuilder melt and pour the bronze for fittings on the boat. Check out the cleat Phillip is holding. In all, the facility and skills they are teaching were impressive and eye-opening. We really enjoyed the visit, and their hospitality.
Southwest Harbor
After WoodenBoat we cruised over to Southwest Harbor to grab a ball at the Hinckley Yard. I discussed our efforts to spot and dodge lobster pots in my first Maine post if you’re curious. Our day-sails in Maine from harbor to harbor were definitely treated differently than a typical cruise for us, with both Phillip and I on keen watch for pots. We got lucky and did not hit any during our time in Maine, thankfully (although we have a cutter for that reason, that we never hope to need), but it definitely impacted how we weighed anchor and settled into our daily passages.
The Hinckley Yard had a nice mooring field where we were able to grab a ball and go ashore to walk some breathtaking neighborhoods. I saw a bunch of deer and bunnies in the morning when I would go walking and it was just an exquisite immersive experience.
One of the really cool things we liked about Mount Desert Island was also the Island Explorer Bus—a free bus!—that runs all over the island, even picking us up right near the Hinckley Yard. Phillip and I hopped on and off that thing frequently, taking it to various parts of the National Park, different trailheads and downtown areas. It was a fun, unique, and free way to enjoy the island.
And, we finally got our lobster on at Beal’s! I’ll never forget that first meal. I cracked and smashed and slathered every morsel I fished out in lemon butter. The lobster up in Maine just has a completely different taste—extremely fresh, sweet almost, and with a light, delicate texture. It was exquisite.
Somes Sound
Ahhhh … our first fjord. Well, I did learn they call it a fjard because, while it, too, is formed by glacial activity, it is shallower and less steep than a fjord. The Sound extends seven (7) miles inland from Southwest Harbor up toward Somesville, effectively splitting Mount Desert Island almost in two. This was probably our favorite anchorage area in all of Maine: Somes Sound.
There was just something about the Sound that felt so majestic and other-worldly compared to all the other cruising Phillip and I have done. With these big tall rocky cliffs forming the backdrop for our boat, the cool, rich waters we were anchored in, the colors that form the palette of Maine when I close my eyes (dark navy water, the mustard yellow of the moss on the rocks, and the lush green and grey rocky cliff of the trails above). Phillip and I anchored in several spots along the Somes Sound and found our view of the boat from the dinghy to be one of our favorite images of Ubi we’ve ever taken. Every shot looked like a poster.
We also climbed the Saint Sauveur Mountain overlooking Valley Cove. Translation: overlooking our boat! That was a really fun climb that took us most of the day—ironically because when we climbed all the way to the top then down to the bottom, we learned part of the trail was closed for renovations, so we had to climb all the way up again and all the way down. No complaints here, though. We were there for the hiking, so … c’est la hike. It was a glorious day spent in nature!
Acadia National Park is one of the most beloved national parks in the United States, known for its striking landscapes, rich biodiversity, and recreational opportunities. She certainly did not disappoint. I was impressed that every trail was so clearly marked and accessible to allow pretty much anyone who could walk the stunning views, fresh natural air, and peace and tranquility this place provides. Acadia was glorious! Here are some other peaks available for hiking, all from any anchorage on Mount Desert Island.
One of our favorite stops in Southwest Harbor was also the Common Good Kitchen, this quaint little breakfast bakery spot that is famous for its popovers. Yes, that’s a thing. An amazing, delicious, delicate thing.
But, there was even more goodness here. This little kitchen operates on a “pay-what-you-want” donation system designed to provide free, nutritious meals to locals and newcomers alike, while cultivating a sense of community and offering uplifting live music to island residents. Want a taste? Here you go!
Also, we had a buddy boat traveling with us who flew his droooonnnee, capturing these really cool shots of Ubi sailing down the Somes Sound toward Abels and Bar Harbor. Maybe the drone shots were one of the reasons the Somes Sound turned out to be one of our favorite spots in Maine. Just maybe.
Bar Harbor
If you want to get a glimpse of what if feels like to walk through a quaint little Maine town in the middle of summer: turn your AC down to 68 degrees, put on a light fleece, crank up John Denver singing Country Roads and eat blueberry ice cream. Minus the exquisite nature, that’s a pretty good replica. Bar Harbor was just as cute and quaint as Southwest Harbor (and Boothbay and Camden and all of them). But, one of our favorite stops was Abel’s for the looobbbstaaahs!
Delish. We anchored outside of Abel’s, too, at the tip of the Somes Sound and really enjoyed that anchorage. It was quite pretty and filled with several fun, fellow boaters whom we enjoyed sharing the loveliness with. From the Somes anchorage by Abel’s, we hopped back on the Island Explorer Bus and accomplished one of the coolest hikes in all of our Maine cruising. On Mount Dorr, they have a “rungs and ladders” trail—is what the National Park gal told me it was called. Check this out.
We were definitely very high up, but what I loved about the Acadia hiking is that it all felt quite safe and enjoyable—being able to climb up this high without a grueling, covered-in-sweat, extreme experience—while still getting some very pleasurable exercise and sunshine and the privilege of this exceptional view. I could hike an Acadia National Park trail everyday of my life and be happy. Every trail checked that many boxes for me. I found this pretty cool video that let’s you take the “rungs and ladders” trial vicariously. Give it a whirl and let me know what you think of an Acadia hike. : )
Glorious indeed, right?! That’s how we felt about all of Maine. Just stunning. Worth the lobster pots. Worth the cold water that I didn’t swim in (although Phillip did). Worth it all. The views, the rich biodiversity you are immersed in, the people, the blueberry everything. I loved every anchorage, hike, and morsel. But, of course, I’ve saved the best for last. Our last foray in Maine was an Outbound-boat rendezvous with a traditional waterfront lobster bake AND and an Outbound regatta. Holy moly. Stay tuned!
As we sailed further up the coast, Maine continued to unfold before us, each port offering its own unique feel and flavor of rich coastline, working harbors, and authentic New England.
While I could say it was all brought about by Ubi’s particular magic that we seemed to land at every port in the middle of a full-blown festival, I had to remind myself this far up in latitudes, these three months of summer are all they really get for sailing and cruising. It’s their high season. The rest of the year the place is froze over. Only the lobstermen are getting out on the water in those frigid temps and conditions. So, they really jam a lot of waterfront activity into June, July, and August. Lucky us! : )
July, 2024
Rockland
After leaving Portland, we headed further up north and I was surprised when I saw Rockland coming into view. It looked like a tri-county fair, with red and white striped tent peaks everywhere and tons of people packed along the waterfront. Like we had landed in a circus!
Completely unbeknownst to us, we had dropped anchor right as they kicked off their annual Maine Lobster Festival. And, these people take their lobster seriously. Trust me.
This five-day festival—which completely takes over Harbor Park on the waterfront—honors the state’s iconic lobster industry and offers a wide array of attractions. Think food trucks, games, nightly shows and music, even a petting zoo! Annie loves little baby animals. I just melt.
We were also really surprised and pleased to find the area had such a rich Portuguese heritage, offering lots of linguica—an incredibly flavorful, smoky Portuguese sausage, often served with sautéed peppers—usually on their famous Portuguese bolo (bread). We stuffed ourselves silly with sausage and had a great time roaming among the tents and watching the Portuguese dancers put on a nightly show.
One other very cool thing that we happened to land upon in arriving in Rockland was this U.S. Coast Guard tall ship and a Navy guided missile destroyer, the Delbert D. Black that were anchored in the harbor, available to tour. We never say no to touring other boats, be it a 35-foot little sailboat like the 1985 Niagara Hinterhoeller we used to sail, or a 513-foot destroyer. The answer is “Yes, please!” We hopped on a little fishing boat turned ferry for the day and got us a tour. The ship was massive, impeccably maintained, with plenty of midshipmen and sailors aboard happy to tell us about the systems and show us all the cool toys. Such a treat!
Rockland also offered a few little quirky breweries and coffee shops that made our visit there even more memorable. We anchored just outside of Harbor Park, which was a quick easy in on the dink, but Phillip and I were surprised at how much rode we had to put out to get a 5-to-1 ratio in about thirty feet of depth and how much swing radius that gave the boats in the anchorage. After getting too close for comfort to a boat who was there before us (Boat Code gives the first boat to anchor deference, in Annie’s book at least), we had to move and re-anchor. It was our first lesson in the trickeries of anchoring in waters that deep. This was one of the reasons, going further into Maine, we often took a mooring ball when one was available. While there is a daily fee, of course, it does alleviate, entirely, the worry of another boat swinging and hitting you. We found it a price worth paying. The balls also come with a launch which can be pretty handy in cold or drizzly, wet weather.
Camden
For this reason, when we made it to Camden, we decided to call first to ask if a mooring ball was available. And, what did they tell us? “Oh, gees, it might be impossible this weekend as it’s the Camden Classics Cup.” We said: “The what cup?” Being completely new to this port, we were a little befuddled. But, the Lyman-Morse guy came right back with some very good news. “We had a cancellation. Looks like you’re in. Ball M14 is yours.” We said: “Whooo hooo!” Camden here we come. And, I must include a little shout-out here to the mooring balls in New England, many of which (especially in Maine) are rigged with what I call—hope you speak Annie—a “pick-em-up stick.”
They include this little lobster pot looking floatie with a stick that’s tall enough for you to just grab from the bow. No boat hook—or leaning way over the side of the toe rail—to grab the ball. Just grab the pick-em-up stick, which is attached to the bridal that goes right on your bow cleats. They’re often piled up on the mooring itself, so they’re usually dry when you grab them and fasten them on the boat. For those of you who have wrestled a wet, grimy, gnarly mooring ball line onto your boat know what I’m talking about. You look like you went a few rounds with a pig in slop when you’re done. But, in Maine, I felt like I could grab a mooring ball up there in an evening gown and (aside from washing my hands) you’d never know what I just did. The pick-em-up sticks were a thing of beauty.
So, once we got on our Lyman-Morse ball in Camden, we wanted to get promptly ashore to see what all this Camden Classics Cup was about. Ooooohhh boy. These were some of the most beautiful, exquisitely maintained wooden boats I have ever seen. And they’re right there on the dock by Lyman-Morse, just asking to be ogled. The Classics Cup features a sailing regatta and harbor parade all in honor of classic yacht racing and boatbuilding. We got to see the parade that runs through the little harbor there (one of our favorite, picturesque harbors in all of Maine) and listen to the entertaining, and impressive commentary provided for each boat. Many of the boats that passed us by during the parade boasted numerous round-the-world excursions and many had been sailing the waters of this planet for almost one hundred years, if not more. I was mesmerized thinking what incredible things each of those boats have witnessed and survived! What a testament to boat building.
In all, the Classics Cup was just mesmerizing, particularly against the backdrop of picturesque Penobscot Bay. We even dropped the ball (again, very easy to do, even in a high society ensemble) and took Ubi out to bob and sail around and watch them race around us. It was an incredible day.
As was this! Climbing Mount Battie in Camden! This was one of our first tastes of hiking elevations in Maine and man, oh, man, what an exquisite treat. The ground is so lush and rich. I felt like the moss covering the ground was as thick as carpet. Every shade of green you can imagine. And, cool enough to need a light fleece at the start, but you shed the layers as you make your way up to the reward of such an incredible view. It overlooked the mooring field, so we could see and wave to Ubi from up there. Also, roughly 800 feet of elevation is nothing to sneeze at. It was a perfect way to earn an appetite for the many incredible restaurants Camden has to offer.
While the hiking on Mt. Desert Island, which boasts Acadia National Park, was our favorite—those stories and photos are coming here next!—Mount Battie, being our first taste of it, holds a special little place in this hiker’s heart. In all, Camden offered beauty, an eclectic shopping/foodie scene, and some of the most well-preserved wooden boats I’ve ever seen in person. Camden was one of our favorite stops in Maine.
Boothbay Harbor
But, our good-landing luck must have run out by then, because we hit Boothbay Harbor in the middle of dense fog followed by three days of drizzle and hard rain.
We didn’t see it as problem, though. The weather is going to do what it’s going to do. And, I took solace in reminding myself that’s how the earth gets so rich and green up there, the waters so clean, the air so fresh, because of the frequent fogs and rain. We stayed on a ball at Carousel Marina and they were very good to us. I enjoyed walking by this friend every day and saying hello.
Made me chuckle they have a huge rod propping him up in the back as I guess he’s taken a spill or two over the years. Seeing him laid back like he was going under a limbo bar would have been a funny sight to see. In all, Boothbay Harbor is a really picturesque stop in Maine with wonderful thick woods all around to walk through and a great little eclectic downtown full of shops worth poking into.
We had fun despite the rain, however, attending an interesting little science talk at the Opera House there and enjoying several fine dinners at both the Carriage House Inn and Ports of Italy. I also enjoyed the nostalgia of the footbridge—that has been around since 1901 if you can believe it?! Believe it. The footbridge made our frequent walks through town and around Boothbay Harbor even that more enjoyable.
Botanical Gardens
But, of course, I saved the best for last. This easily makes the top ten of the dozens of fun, memorable things we did while in Maine: the Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens. The gardens span over 300 acres along Maine’s midcoast and feature ornamental gardens all showcasing flora and fauna native to Maine as well as miles of trails that run through forests, wetlands, and along nearly a mile of Maine’s rich shoreline. After our stay in Boothbay Harbor, my official tour guide (Phillip) had planned for us to sail over and anchor near Indiantown Island so we could dinghy in and explore the botanical gardens.
While I was expecting beautiful flowers and lakes and trees, birds, and butterflies, and guided natures paths, I had no idea these lovely tree trolls were in store.
I tell you, I’ve been traipsing through the woods since I was about three feet tall. Proof! : )
So, a hike through the forest is always high on my list—skinned knees and all—but what we encountered in Maine just surpassed any forest or wooded environment I have ever had the pleasure (nay, privilege!) of walking through. These guys were a real highlight for me. Walking up to them you feel a bit of a presence. Like the big guy is looking down at you and wondering what stories you have to share with him, as he’s got plenty for you. They were quite majestic. Here’s the story:
These giant trolls (five total in the Botanical Gardens) referred to as “The Guardians of the Seed” were created by a Danish artist, Thomas Dambo. He makes these mammoth-sized trolls all from recycled materials. Great way to reduce, reuse! But don’t let me rattle on about the amazing trolls. Here’s Dambo himself on them:
The project was intended as an open-ended fuse that initiates wonder, inspiring people to see the natural world through a whimsically different lens that reinforces the value of using what we have to create something new, while also pulling together people of many skills and backgrounds from throughout our community.
So, check them out and let us know which one is your favorite! It’s time. Meet the Trolls!
Roskva Stands for the trunks
Roskva is the heaviest, hardest, and strongest of the trolls. Every day, Roskva climbs towards the sky, and every year she grows taller and wider. If a troll forgets something, they can always ask Roskva—she counts the seasons and remembers everything that happens around her.
Lilja Holds the scent of the flowers
Just last summer, Lilja came out from her hiding place. The youngest of the trolls, she’s still just a child. She loves the colors and the scents of the flowers and when bees and butterflies fly among branches.
Birk Holds the roots
Birk is the wisest and most mysterious of the trolls. He hides in the shadows and listens to the whispers of the soil. He knows everything that happens in the wild, and every day he tells tales to all the other creatures of the forest.
Søren Sticks up for the branches
Søren is a very curious troll; his head is always turning and twisting, searching for places ever higher. He dreams about drifting around on a cloud in the sky, and when the wind is blowing, he loves to celebrate with a dance.
Gro Smiles with the leaves
Gro is the wanderer. Every fall she disappears, but the trolls are not worried because every spring she returns to the forest. On her return, Gro walks around to make sure every friend of hers is fed. After hurrying to catch a few sunbeams and a handful of raindrops, she creates a feast for the forest.
We hope you’ve enjoyed this fun romp through a few of our favorite stops during our first summer in Maine, in and around Penobscot Bay. Next up, I’ll share our absolute favorite place that we visited in Maine this past summer: Sommes Sound and Acadia National Park. Stay tuned! This is the Maine Event! : )
It is that time followers. If any of you have ever been pondering cruising to Maine, these posts are for you. For those who have been to Maine, enjoy the nostalgia. While Phillip and I have been cruising for (gosh) over twelve years now, we spent most of that time cruising the west coast of Florida and other countries (Bahamas, Cuba, France, Portugal, Spain, etc.). We only started cruising the U.S. east coast in 2021 when we welcomed Ubiquitous to our salty family and fell in love with summers in New England during our first voyage there in 2023, although we’ve been back every year since. However, in aaaaallll those years cruising, Phillip and I have easily found our summer cruising Maine was our best cruising season after Cuba. That’s right. Maine came in second only to Cuba. True statement, for us. It was that incredible. It was that unique. It was that magical—despite the million lobster pots (don’t worry, I’ve included an Annie-style tutorial below). So, what are we waiting for? Let’s get to the MAINE EVENT!
JULY 2024
Rockport, MA
After catching the start of the Newport to Bermuda race in June, then making our way (for the first incredible time!) into the Cape and exploring Boston and Ptown, we finally started making our way up into Maine. On a side note, our sail up the coast was incredibly fun. I remember Phillip and I being excited every day exploring new waters and traversing to new latitudes—despite some occasional fog. We were often dancing to music underway, making fun passage treats, and enjoying the gorgeous coastline views from Ubi.
Phillip breaking a move on deck as we sailed north : )
Rockport, MA
Although, I know it is in Massachusetts, not Maine, I’m sure many will agree with me in that Rockport, MA—a self-proclaimed “seasonal village on Cape Anne”— FELT like our first port in Maine, because it has all the elements of a coastal town that scream Maine. What are those? I’m glad you asked!
1. A tiny little harbor filled with colorful, working fishing and lobster boats.
2. Exquisite Harbour views.
Ubi on her hook in the Rockport Harbor
3. A cute little touristy “Main Street” (a downtown strip) that is home to all the necessities: quirky art galleries, trinket shops, lobster bite bars (I call them) – little walk-up seafood bite joints with exceptional seafood, most of it caught that very day – ice cream parlors, souvenir shops, etc.
4. The Rockport Opera House was quite impressive, with a vast window bank looking RIGHT out on the anchorage where Ubi was happily floating. We tried to catch a concert/event here, twice, but they were sold out. Next time! What a venue! Check out their schedule here.
5. The typical upper England “beach” with its brown, pebbly sand, crisp waters, and folks splashing and sunbathing making you feel like a total wimp for feeling cold (although you can see their skin blistered pink from it):
6. I even found a fellow Parrothead in Rockport! Jimmy fans travel high and low.
The Water in Maine
We stayed in the anchorage at Rockport for a few days, taking in the quaint sights and scenes and enjoying the brisk air before making our way further north up the coast. And, I think this is the appropriate time to pay a little tribute to the waters of Maine, as they were just so different than any waters we’ve cruised before. The waters up north are teeming with life. They are not the warm, jewel-toned waters of the Bahamas (which I am looking at now as I write this) but they are equally essential and beautiful in their own right in that they provide such a lifeblood for the working class in Maine. Lobster boats putter out every morning in search of fresh crustaceans. The shores are filled with shells of clams and mollusks of all walks of life. The thick, slick yellow algae that covers the rocks at the water line is full of life. The water is deep, dark, and clean. Probably some of the cleanest waters we have sailed in (I can easily say that knowing how much time we’ve spent in south Florida and marinas).
The waters up north can seem dark and brooding, but I see them as full of life. I imagine if someone could snap their fingers and make the water disappear, leaving the organisms behind, you would find millions upon millions of species at every meter of depth, even deep into the rich, supple muddy seaboard. The water is such a sustenance there. It is revered and worked around. It has been lived upon for hundreds of years, generations after generations. I saw female lobster boat captains clad in orange rubber, hauling in their catches just like the guys and it made me proud. I saw scruffy old salts with steamy cups of coffee in the early hours looking out on the water, and I wish I knew what they were thinking and what they saw as they looked out. The fisherman and women who live and work in Maine, I can assure you, are a hearty, sage bunch. I admired their quiet solitude and their deep, ancestral connection to the water.
Mooring at Falmouth
Our first actual stop in Maine was Portland, which is quite an eccentric, progressive hub. Sailing into the harbor in Portland was a real treat. There were lobster boats, sailboats, big charter boats, cargo ships. It was very active. We decided to take a ball with Handy Boat (Maine’s “friendliest anchorage in the heart of Casco Bay” and I believe them) in Falmouth, ME. To answer several questions you may be rolling around right now, it was very common for us to take a mooring ball in Maine. First, they are everywhere—often infiltrating and taking over many anchorages near ports making them difficult to anchor around (so if you can’t beat them, join them! : ). Second, it’s often too deep to anchor comfortably close to the port you want to visit. This is not true everywhere in Maine. I mean, there’s over 3,400 miles of coast in Maine, but for the popular ports that most people visit (Camden, Booth Bay, Bar Harbor, etc.) we found it was far more common for people to grab a mooring ball than anchor, and they often come with a launch to shore which is nice. The balls are also all very well-maintained, too, so they offer a lot of comfort, ease, and amenities. The balls at Handy were no different, offering a great restaurant and laundry facilities ashore, with just a quick Uber ride into Portland.
Portland, Maine
Ahhhh … where to start. With the blueberries perhaps? Sure, let’s start there.
Blueberries rule the day in Maine. Especially in the summer. There are blueberry drinks, coffees, teas, jams, pancake mixes, scones, even blueberry candles, lotions, cups, books, you name it. If you didn’t see this book in any one of the hundred cute little book/trinket shops, I won’t believe you were really there.
I enjoyed blueberry beer, tea, coffee, and cookies. All were a real treat!
We also did the Duck Boat tour when in Portland. Phillip and I often do the cheesy tourist thing anytime we land in a port new to us. It’s a great way to get a quick lay of the land, some fun history, and we often make friends with the tour guides and get some local intel from them as a result. This time was no different. The Duck Boat provided some really interesting facts about the waters of Portland, its seafood heritage and history, as well as the cool architecture and ancient buildings we were roaming around.
We had a lunch at Eventide Oyster Co. that I still remember to this day. We savored the most exquisite scallops I’ve ever eaten while sitting right on a main thoroughfare of downtown Portland watching the tourists and locals alike walk by. We also got an oyster flight which was very fun, with little flags telling us where each oyster came from. The Prince Edward Islands were a huge hit! Lightly salty, a little nutty, and one of the freshest things I’ve ever put in my mouth.
Walking the streets and checking out the waterviews, the history, the incredible breweries and eateries was a real treat. Phillip and I were pinching ourselves finding it a little hard to believe we had actually done it. Sailed our immaculate, capable boat all the way up the eastern coast to Maine! I had never been there by car or plane. I only arrived by sailboat! That’s just pretty cool. We spent several days pillaging the city and enjoying the sights and scenes in Portland, as well as the amenities and views at Falmouth around the Handy Boat mooring field.
Some of my morning walks around the Handy Boat/Falmouth area I can close my eyes and still see. I was baffled that I was donning light fleeces and long pants in July, but I was. I happily was. There wasn’t a path, road, or coastline I didn’t want to walk. And, I won’t betray my first seal pup sighting here with a photo that wasn’t the actual one. When his (or her) black, knowing eyes turned my way and took me in, I felt seen. I felt like that seal appreciated that I was just a happy bystander, appreciating everything about his way of life. We just looked at one another for a long minute, and I knew—in that moment I just knew—Phillip and I would be coming back to Maine for many years to come.
Next up, we’ll dive deeper into Maine, taking you to Rockland, Camden, and beyond. Stay tuned!
LOBSTER POT TUTORIAL
As promised, I wanted to share some information about lobster pots that I wish someone had shared with me before we cruised up to Maine. Many (many!) people told us how bad the lobster pots were, how prevalent, how annoying, how troublesome, yadda, yadda. All Phillip and I knew was how much of a bear the pots were going to be. Maybe I’m grateful all those cruisers gave us such an awful account because it made Phillip and I appropriately cautious and nervous about the pots, which made them turn out to be a non-event for us, really. Know that we were incredibly diligent—keeping a dual watch straight ahead at the bow at all times possible and steering very carefully around them—which does affect the enjoyment of your day sails (and we did zero night sails for this reason), but they’re an inconvenience that is worth the reward. However, once I learned these basic tenements, I felt fine about the pots. I hope this helps some of you.
How to Identify the Notorious Buoy With Toggle (“Buoys with a Buddy” I called them):
First, let me share this article, which was the first one I found that finally dumbed it down enough for me to understand. Turns out “Annie Dumb” is lower than most levels of dumb. If any of you are like me, you’re welcome.
When you first see a thick bank of lobster pot buoys ahead of you, you’re going to panic. Trust me. They feel too cluttered to manage, too tight to get through.
But, once you start to eat them like an elephant (one pot at a time) they become manageable. So, let’s start at the beginning. We all know a lobster pot is really just a buoy marking a cage down below the water designed to trap lobsters.
What we fear is the gnarly rope that leads from the cage up to the buoy that we can catch in our prop and cause all kinds of damage, the worst result being one unlucky cruiser who has to dive into those frigid waters, knife in teeth, to rescue the boat. That’s not the day anyone really wants.
But, what really set me on edge was the idea that some cages have TWO floating pieces connected to them which are also surreptitiously connected together under the water. Like a couple holding hands. A buoy with a buddy. And the last thing you want to do is drive between a buoy and its buddy because that low hanging rope between them will snarl you every time.
These guys caused me nightmares. My thinking was: if I can’t differentiate which buoy has a buddy, i.e., those that are connected underwater to one another, I cannot navigate these menaces. This felt especially true when I believed these two parts (the buoy and its “buddy”, aka the toggle) were like 100 feet apart, and I would never know which ones were connected and which weren’t, making them impossible to safely navigate. But, once I actually started sailing in Maine and found that with the two-buoy pots—those with a “toggle” and a buoy—the toggle and buoy proved to be so close together you could NOT easily drive between them. Meaning, you would have to try really hard, and would likely not be able, to fit the beam of your boat between a buoy and its buddy (toggle). Also, the toggle and buoy (when a pot had both) were typically painted the same color which was helpful AND they were only ten or so feet apart, maybe twenty feet at times, but too close to make you feel comfortable motoring between the toggle and the buoy.
Maybe this is a basic, simple principle about lobster pots that everyone but me already knew? (It wouldn’t be the first time for this blonde). But, this little revelation was a game-changer for me. Now when I look out at a field of lobster pot buoys, I see buoys alone and buoys with clear toggles (“buoys with buddies” I called them) and I see a path through them as long as I go slow and pay attention. Like navigating a crowd, you will instinctually NOT push through a couple holding hands because you feel that they are a single unit, not to be divided, and you don’t fit comfortably between them for that reason. Buoys with buddies—being closer together than I had envisioned—presented themselves the same way to me, making the whole field of pots more manageable to me. It’s just a sea of people and couples. Navigate accordingly.
Which Side of the Boat to Put the Pot On
It is also important to try (to the best of your ability) to go DOWN wind or current of a pot if you can. How do you do this you ask? Again, I was pleased to find the buoys themselves really help you out here. When the wind and current are moving together, the buoy will point you where to go, i.e. on the downwind and current side of the pot. The stick itself identifies the safe path by simply pointing it out to you. I found going on the “pointer” side of a pot was a safe bet most of the time.
It can be a little trickier when the current is strong and it is opposing the wind (making the toggle stick straight up, or point all over, including the wrong way). In this case, you can look at the flow of water around the buoy to see which way the current is flowing so you can navigate down-current of the buoy. Think of it like looking at a navigational buoy, when you see one really leaned over and the water gushing around it, telling you which direction the water is flowing. Here’s an example:
If you see water moving around a lobster buoy the same way, try to go down current of it. The reason for all of this is that you leave the gnarly mess of rope and cage underneath the buoy UP current or UP wind of you reducing the chance that you’ll get blown or drift into it.
When In Doubt, Throw Her in Neutral
Let’s face it. No matter how much we all try to stare ahead and maintain attention, we’re human. We look away. We start talking, reading, singing, whatever. We get distracted. There’s going to be a moment when you look up and see a lobster pot is already bobbing down the length of your hull, or it just slipped underneath and popped out the other side. And, you’re thinking (pardon my French): Shit! Here we go. Remember, if you’re motoring, you can always throw her in neutral for the moment in hopes that you just pass over the pot without catching it. You’ll see it pop up behind the transom as you drift away from it, and you breathe a huge sigh of relief. Whew. Or, if you do catch it, at least you don’t catch it with your prop spinning at however-many RPMs which can cause more damage.
For this reason, sailing (as opposed to motoring) through pots can be harder (because you’re constrained by the wind in your navigation), but it can also be safer in that regard. If you do catch a pot while sailing, you will probably see a noticeable reduction in speed. We caught one down in the Florida Keys years ago and it knocked us from 6+ knots SOG down to just a little over 4 and we looked behind the boat and saw we’d caught a pot. So, the speed will tell you (if you don’t notice it on your own). And, sometimes you can get a pot unsnarled with just a boat hook and cold arms. Consider yourself blessed that day.
A Word on Prop Cutters
Know that we do have a cutter on Ubi’s shaft that promises to cut lobster pot lines before they can damage her prop, but we consider that insurance we only want to use if necessary. The first line of defense is our eyes on the road and hands on the helm. We’ve yet to test our cutter out, and I’m okay with that.
I hope this helps some of you who think a bit like me (I need special, elementary-level instruction that resonates with me, and I’m highly visual) and who are planning to sail to Maine. Do NOT let the lobster pots deter you. They are manageable and well worth the beauty and magic that awaits! More Maine to come. Stay tuned!
Now, I have to admit I am a hybrid reader (well, and listener for that matter). Fun fact: At about any point in time, I simultaneously have a book in progress on my Kindle, in hard copy, on Audible, and one that I’m writing as well. What can I say? I love stories. And, while I also love the feel and tangible page-turn of reading an actual book—and, most importantly, the ability to flip back and forth to refresh my memory on certain characters, dates, settings, etc.—I also love and appreciate the sleek beauty of the Kindle, particularly for the “hands-free” option. Hands-free you ask? Yep. Give that salty thigh of yours a little swipe of water (or a lick, I’m not above it) and the Kindle just sticks! Leaving my hands to hold on to the boat (if it’s a little sporty) or hold a drink and a bowl of nibbles. That’s a happy moment in Annie Land. I hope it is for some of you all as well.
We take a short break from our travel excursions—which are about to launch into MAINE for our first time ever, stay tuned!—to share this really cool SAIL Magazine article with you. Funnily enough, I’m actually floating happily in Maine while reading my Kindle for the cover shot below for the article. I had another great time collaborating with Wendy Clarke over at SAIL Magazine on this one: a two-part take on e-readers versus hard copy books. Although I am a firm believer in Book Swap Mojo (yes, that is a thing) and the thrill of walking up to a new marina book swap wondering what Pandora’s Box has in store for me—please let it be this guy—I scrounged around for some interesting and clever ways to expand your library on the Kindle for this article. Surprised myself, even, at the many options to scarf up FREE ebooks. Don’t miss out. But, inquiring minds want to know. Lay it on us, followers, what are you? An e-reader or hard copy?
This is going to be fun. So, this past summer Phillip and I ventured further than we ever have by boat. We took Ubi through the Cape Code Canal so we could explore all of Cape Cod before making our way up to Maine, which proved to be one of the very best seasons we have spent on any boat. And, we’ve been cruising now (since 2013) for about twelve years, so that’s saying something. Personally, I love me a big gay explosion and I was really looking forward to Provincetown, but I never expected Boston to knock my (Boston) Sox off! But, it did. We absolutely pilfered that city. I think that’s what you’re supposed to do. You ready to join us. Let’s dive in!
June-July 2024:
When we last left you on the HaveWind blog, we had experienced one of our most harrowing moments offshore, with the late Pam Wall’s wisdom there to guide us, while we were making our way up the East Coast for the summer. We ventured up to Newport, one of our favorite stops in New England, and inadvertently caught the thrilling start of the Newport to Bermuda race where I went all fan-girl on Cole Brauer. I hope she’s forgiven (or forgot about) me. Those were some good times. Little did we know much more was in store after we made our way to Onset Village, a lovely little town poised perfectly for staging up to go through the Cape Code Canal, and headed over first to Provincetown, then Boston and Quincy. Although it was incredibly hard to choose, we did it for you guys. You’re welcome. Here are our Cape Cod Top Tens (in no particular order):
I mean … it’s Boston. They’ve got the legendary Paul Revere, John Hancock, Edgar Allen Poe. There’s the Tea Party, the “two if by sea!” … all of it. Who wouldn’t want to dive in? Phillip and I typically book a walking tour in any port new to us, however, as it gives a good lay of the land, some local knowledge and recommendations, while also providing the cool history of the place. Boston’s foot tours certainly did all of that and more. I was mesmerized by all the history right around us. And, Boston itself surprised me being quite an impressive little metro hub but without the noise, crowd, and smell of NYC. Walking around Harvard University was a pretty cool experience, too. Being the oldest higher education institution in the U.S., it was much smaller than I had envisioned, but you can feel the academic crackle in the atmosphere. We poked around MIT as well and that was just as much fun. But, I think my favorite (big shock) was the tour of the old Boston Public Library. The architecture of it—which typically reveals the history—and the art inside, as well as the serene and somber feel of it made it a memorable stop for me.
“I’ll have what she’s having.” If a mermaid is ordering up, that’s what I would say. Phillip found and booked this for us, and it was one of the most fascinating things we did this past summer. For Provincetown locals and tourists, coastal preservation and cleanup is key. That is why they are growing beautiful organic oysters right in Provincetown Harbor. Because—did you know?—a single oyster (just one) can filter up to fifty (50) gallons of water a day. Talk about a neat freak. An oyster after my own heart. We learned this fun fact and a hundred more on this tour, where they trek you out barefoot to the very oysters themselves to point out all the cool little micro wildlife in the harbor and teach you about their conservancy program. This was a real eye-opening nature treat.
“Thank you for listening,” he said. This was probably the biggest highlight of Provincetown for me because I love performing arts. I love writing and journalism (obviously). And, I love Ari Shapiro! It’s too bad he’s gay. Such a hottie. Phillip booked this for me as a surprise—I’m a lucky gal: Ari Shapiro’s “Thank You For Listening” Cabaret. Ari was funny, elegant, raw, soulful. We also bought and read his book—The Best Strangers in the World—which I thoroughly enjoyed. Thank you, Ari, for putting yourself out there. We loved it! We also saw Dina Martina and thought we were going a little batty, but I’ve never laughed so hard. I think the strange factor is part of the whole vibe of Ptown. It’s jaw-dropping to say the least. I believe I could wonder the streets of Provincetown any June of my life and it would be a good month for me. The colorful shops, the characters that roam the streets, but the overall feeling of good natured people and love is palpable. It’s a heartwarming place to be.
Now, I’m not a baseball fan. I think it’s an admirable sport, and its history with Babe Ruth and Jackie Robinson and all that is really cool, but I can’t think of a single game I’ve ever watched beginning to end. That said, I loved this tour of Fenway Park. There’s so much history there. The stadium has been in that very spot since 1912, well over a hundred years! It’s the oldest MLB stadium still in use. Also, opening game at Fenway, do you know who the Red Sox beat? The New York Highlanders, later to become the Yankees! Whoa. With its Green Monster, the Pesky Pole, and its nostalgic atmosphere, I think I would have a great time watching any game at Fenway.
Although we did stay on a ball in the Boston Harbor (highly recommend), we also booked a slip for a bit at the Safe Harbor Marina in Quincy and were very pleased with the access and amenities it provided. First, although we all know Safe Harbor marinas are taking over the world, in our experience, they have been very well-staffed, clean, well-appointed marinas so I’m not complaining. The one in Quincy is no different. Also, the collection of restaurants, a brewery, high-end stores, even a convenient store surrounding the marina is really nice. And—huge bonus for just about any cruiser—there is a lengthy walking/biking path that starts right at the marina and weaves through golden fields and waterfronts that I enjoyed every single day. In addition, the Boston Ferries pick up at Quincy and offer drops at the Logan Airport as well as multiple docks along the Boston Harbor for a very affordable fare, typically around $5 each way.
Soaring 350 feet over Provincetown, this iconic structure remains the tallest all-granite structure in the United States. At the top you can see all around Provincetown Harbor and the Cape as well as Boston all the way over on the other side. This was where Phillip and I actually saw Boston for the first time as we went to Provincetown first before doubling back across the Cape to Boston. The wind and weather, right? Go where it takes you. The views from the top of the Monument were well worth the climb, and it was fun to see Ubi out there, floating happy along with the other boats in the harbor. We never miss a chance to get a selfie with Ubi. Who would?
Don’t you love when your plans feel like they’re all going to waste but you find out later they actually worked out better than you could have imagined? Listen to this. Phillip and I were making our way toward Boston around the Fourth of July timeframe with the goal of being on a ball in the Boston Harbor with the Fourth of July fireworks exploding all around us. However, when we arrived and asked for a ball to reserve, we were told they only had balls through July 2nd; we would have to leave our ball on July 3rd. We were disheartened but there was nothing we could do about it. “We’ll take it,” we said. But, when we came ashore to explore Boston for our first time ever, we learned from posters at the marina that the fireworks in the harbor were happening on THE SECOND. Our first time in Boston and Phillip and I found ourselves seated perfectly in the Boston Harbor with fireworks exploding all around us. It was a sight to behold!
I’ll let you in on a little secret. Shhh … [my blonde is real]. I thought a president’s library was literally the library of books he collected and kept in the White House when he was serving. So, when Phillip asked if I wanted to go see JFK’s library, I thought, “Okay, that could be interesting.” Turns out it’s way more than the books JFK liked, and it was fascinating. Located between Quincy and Boston, this library and museum is worth a visit. They have pieced together a riveting history of this man who was nuanced, wilder than I had realized, and tested at such a young age, but he proved himself to be steely, level-headed, and wise. The history about Jackie O. was equally fascinating, and the displays and interactive/immersive exhibits they have put together make the trip well worth it.
We ate tagliatelle, cannoli, linguini, carpaccio, anything else ending in a vowel. Perusing Boston’s famous Little Italy is a trip for the senses. You’ll smell marina and roasted garlic on every corner. Some of the old kitchen hands that come out wiping their hands on their aprons look like they’ve stepped out of time, from one hundred years ago, to make you your pasta. We feasted big at Prezza and finished every piece of pasta on our plates. And, no trip to Boston is complete without a visit to the lively and iconic Mike’s Pasty for lots of shouts and dings and pastries flying. I’m not sure I ever need to see another cannoli.
Where everybody knows your name! Again Phillip surprised me with this one. We were just strolling the lovely cobblestones streets of Boston, and he said, “Hey take a right here. Let’s check out this bar.” This bar … pssshhh was none other than THE BAR from the hit show Cheers. The place is packed with memorabilia from the show: photos, news clippings, clothes worn by the stars. I’m a sucker for Woody. It’s hard to believe he was so young when he landed that role! The smile on Phillip’s face was priceless as he ordered up a frosty beer and sat among so many others looking around all over the walls and ceilings with their jaws dropped. Can you hear it now: “You want to go where everybody knows your name!”
HONORABLE MENTIONS
There were a few other things that we would have liked to have done—and I’m sure we would have loved them—but we ran out of time. If any of you readers have had the pleasure of experiencing these activities, feel free to chime in!
The bike paths around Cape Cod, made out of the old carriage and rail trails that used to dominate the Cape, are really impressive—long and windy, weaving through gorgeous landscape. Phillip and I took a little shuttle over to the National Park huts along the bike trails and we decided we definitely want to spend an entire day next time biking those really cool paths. But, it’s always nice to have something you want to come back for, right? “Next time!” we say.
Cape Cod Rail Trail in Harwich, Massachusetts, 2014.
This would have been very cool. We saw all of the people gathering on the lawns along the Charles River, thousands of them. It was starting to rain and we had dinner reservations, but next time we would like to see the Boston Pops Fourth of July show. The Boston Pops are an offshoot of the Boston Symphony Orchestra and they play more accessible numbers like Broadway tunes, film scores, jazz, and patriotic songs. They’re best known for their Fourth of July show but their Holiday Pops concert in December is also a huge draw for Bostonians. The videos we saw with the light show integrated and the magnitude of it told us we would like to do it when? “Next time!” : )
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