You might think the ferry ride back from the Dry Tortugas was a little disheartening, having to leave those idyllic islands behind, knowing we had kind of hit the mid-point of our trip, geographically, at least, but it really didn’t have that effect. “So, we’ve got to take this ferry back to Key West where our sailboat and more adventures are waiting?” Yeah, not really a downer in our opinion. We returned invigorated, excited to get back to our boat and tell her how beautiful it was on Garden Key and how much she was going to love sailing there when we come back to the Dry Tortugas. We were excited to see Key West coming up in the distance.
Phillip and I could both feel it, like a steady stream of electricity buzzing through us. There were still so many places on the island to explore! There was still so much to see and eat and do! We were itching to get off that ferry to grab our next adventure by the collar and shake it! This was our time! And, we still had plenty of time that day. The ferry returned from the Dry Tortugas around 4:00 p.m. Uhhh-huhhh. I know what you’re thinking. Happy Hour. That’s right. We’ve still got time!
We jumped in the shower quick to make it to Alonzo’s for the 50-cent oysters. I brought The Paris Wife with me to the showers so I could make my tribute to the marina book swap on the way. I finished The Paris Wife on the way to the Dry Tortugas, which was perfect, because it is a sad, poignant book. The kind that sinks into your chest and begins to swell into an ache. I found myself mad at Hemingway, hating him, but understanding him at the same time. It certainly resonated. So, it was good to shut that book and step off the ferry into crystal-green waters filled with shimmery fish clouds. The feeling the book invokes is something you want to feel, but it’s also a feeling you want to balance with fresh air and beauty. It was a day of closure it seemed, as Phillip finished In Our Time on the ferry-ride back. He said it was really interesting reading it after The Paris Wife, where you saw Hemingway create it from his wife, Hadley’s, perspective, and he liked watching the evolution of Hemingway’s writing style from In Our Time, his first book, to his later masterpieces. That one’s definitely on my list (as are many!) But, since Phillip was reading it on the way back, I dug into my back-up book swap book – a juicy little Lee Childs thriller – 61 Hours. I made it one third of the way through by the time we docked at Key West – certainly a fun, quick suspense read.
When we returned, I told Phillip I wanted to keep The Paris Wife and give it to a friend of mine back home who is an author, knowing she would appreciate the Hemingway haunt it had left me with, but he was quick to scold me. “You can’t,” he said. “You’ll ruin your book swap mojo.”
Yes, mojo, the Captain explained, in his infinite marina wisdom. Apparently, there is some unspoken rule in the land of marina book swaps, that if you get a good book from a marina book swap, you’ve got to give it back at another marina to ensure your continued good book karma. “Oh, alright!” I supposed I could just tell my friend about The Paris Wife and she could get her own copy. If that’s what it takes to nurture my mojo!
So, I put it back, but, I think the marina sensed my flirt with thoughts of infidelity, because I was left with the Fabio, ripped abs romance novels, and this hot little western number:
Clearly my mojo was tainted. I’m glad I had a Jack Reacher number and a few other alternatives to get me to the next marina, where I hoped to find less whips and abs. (Not that there’s anything wrong with that).
Once showered, we headed to Alonzo’s Oyster Bar to enjoy another dozen 50-cent oysters and some crisp white wine in the shade. The perfect treat after a long day in the sun.
I love building the perfect bite on each cracker. A fresh oyster, just the right amount of cocktail sauce, with a little horseradish mixed in, and a squeeze of lemon on top. Follow that with a sip of chilled sauvignon blanc, repeat five times and that makes for a pretty darn happy hour for me! While I was still mad at the man for his heartbreaking treatment of Hadley, I have to say, Hemingway certainly knew how to describe the taste:
After oysters, we headed back out on the street and found ourselves once again, drawn to the breath of the Hog! Cliff Cody was belting out another Lady Gaga number at the Saloon, so we decided to stop in for a bit to check out the locals and let Cody serenade us through our first cold one(s).
Love the people-watching at Hog’s. We knocked back one or two and then made our way over to the La Trattoria for a big, Italian dinner. I mean, we’d been to the Dry Tortugas and back today. We had snorkeled with sharks! We had required first aid! Certainly, we were entitled to a decadent, four course Italian meal? We decided we were, and breezed right in.
“Table for two, please,” said the Captain.
We ordered up a great bottle of Montepulciano and the escargot.
The wine had a great pepper finish that really cut through the richness of the escargot. While it took me a couple of tries and several reiterations by the Captain for me to get the pronunciation of the wine right (had nothing to do with the alcohol intake I assure you), I finally nailed it! Mon tae pul chee ahh noh. And, I proudly showed off my Italian skills when I ordered our second bottle. Teach me to pronounce wines, and you’re just asking for trouble …
It came just in time for our salad course – a homemade caeser with whole anchovies, fresh-grated parmesan and big crunchy, spiced croutons. Superb!
But, the dish that really stole the show was the canneloni. Fresh canneloni, made in house, stuffed with ground veal and spinach and smothered in a baked tomato sauce.
Press fingers to lips and “muah!” Our big, Italian dinner was the perfect treat after a long, adventurous day. We had been to the Dry Tortugas and back – a definite milestone on our trip. But, we still had so much ahead. We still had to sail our boat all the way back to Pensacola from the Keys. If the trip back was anything as exciting as the trip down, we were in for an incredible adventure. We had one more day in the Keys, then we would set off again, back out into the open Gulf, back on night shifts, back OUT THERE!
Before we jump right into Phillip’s BIG day, our second day on the Keys and a hugely adventurous day all its own, I fear I have one small tale that I simply must tell. It’s time again, my friends, for another story:
Have You Ever Heard of Hemingway
As you are now aware, we pulled into Key West on a sunny Wednesday, April 23, 2014, the day before the Captain’s birthday on the 24th, and I, unfortunately, found myself admittedly lacking in the gift department. I know that sounds terrible. We had been planning this trip to the Keys for half a year. Surely I could have put two and two together and realized that we would be in the Keys for Phillip’s birthday and that I might ought to think to bring along a gift. Okay, true. I’ll give you that. But, rather than admitting that it actually did slip my mind (which I am not yet prepared to do – I did think about it–often–I could just never decide on the right item). And therein lied the problem. You see, the Captain doesn’t really like gifts. Particularly not useless little items that you buy out of obligation or unnecessary courtesy – you know, a cute little wooden frame with a sailboat on it,
a set of quilted coasters with sailboats on them,
just darlin’ …
a cheap, Chinese-made Captain’s hat with his name embroidered on it.
(But that doesn’t apply to me, Brother. I LOVE cheap, Chinese-made crap with my name on it!)
Captain Jo says “Ahoy!”
No, a real gift to the Captain is a meaningful, well-thought out experience. Something you put more mental effort into than running into T.J. Maxx on your lunch break. Something you had to go the extra mile for. Something that comes with a story.
Well, you know my history with stories. Here’s mine.
When we backed into Key West mid-morning on April 23rd, I had a plan. We had been reading a lot during our sail down to the Keys, particularly one book of interest was The Paris Wife. If you recall we found it at the book swap at Port St. Joe. If I haven’t stressed it enough, I LOVE marina book swaps!
You never know what you might find. There’s usually the typical John Grisham, Dean Koontz, Patricia Cornwell thrillers – many of which you’ve read, or if you’ve read one you feel like you’ve read them all.
Often there’s a Danielle Steele-type with the Italian-looking long-haired beefcake on the front, his shirt conveniently open to reveal his chiseled abs and some scantily-clad damsel in distress pining for him in the corner.
But, sometimes you come across a real gem. A no-shit book you’ve been wanting to read, a New York Times bestseller, sitting right there for free in the book swap. When we found a treasure like that, we began to call it “book mojo” and while we definitely did NOT have it in many other marinas we popped into, Port St. Joe seemed to be our mojo haven. There we found The Paris Wife, tucked away at the very bottom of the little end table that served as the book swap, buried under a stack of decoy books. The Captain said a friend had recommended The Paris Wife to him a while back (knowing he is an avid Hemingway fan)
and he had been wanting to read it for quite some time. We nabbed it, left behind a mediocre Lee Childs number (sorry PSJ!), and Phillip curled up with it first,
And finished it somewhere between Charlotte Harbor and Ft. Myers Beach and then passed it on to me. I dug in and was about half-way through when we touched down in Key West. I was, of course, still wrestling with the idea of Phillip’s gift and what I was going to do and, after nixing several exceedingly embarrassing ideas (writing a song and singing it for him on the ukulele, writing him a story about one of our passages (boring!), or perhaps perform some other service he would appreciate. You know, clean the entire condo, make him a special dinner … Seriously, people, this is a public blog. And, while he would be grateful, those are pretty mundane things – certainly not 40th-birthday worthy). So, I was thrilled when the idea jumped right out at me from the pages of The Paris Wife.
In the book, the author, Paula McClain, does an incredible job of telling the tale of the Hemingways’ early years in Paris from the imagined perspective of Hemingway’s first wife, Hadley.
(There she is!)
In the book, Hadley offers a pretty riveting account of Hemingway’s early struggles as a writer, how he painstakingly fought over every word, struck and re-wrote every sentence until it was perfect, how he agonized over it. I understand the feeling. I do it, on occasion, when I’m really trying to polish a piece to perfection, and the result is always worth it, but it takes like five days to write two pages. It’s grueling, but ‘tis the life of a true writer. Perhaps with a little more time and gruel, I’ll get there.
I, myself, see the Captain as a bit of a Hemingway character—sure, he’s not a cursing, sparring, riotous drunk—but he does have an insatiable thirst for adventure, experience, all things in life that cannot be bought. With this perception, I grew a bit of a kinship with Hemingway’s first wife while reading the book. I felt a part of me understood her struggles. And, when she was discussing Hemingway’s daily toil and angst over his first book, I knew that was it! It was something Hemingway himself had spent months, years churning over, carving, crafting out of blank papyrus. And, it was also something Hadley spent months, years, encouraging him to do and supporting him while he often neglected her during the process. It was the product of such effort, such sacrifice, and the embodiment of such accomplishment – Hemingway’s First Book!That was it! That was the perfect gift. It was called In Our Time. And, this was OUR time, too. Phillip and I were finally sailing our boat, this beautiful Niagara 35, down to the Keys. We were on the adventure of a lifetime, finding ourselves daily in the simultaneous throws of struggle and triumph. This was OUR time, too. How perfect. Thank you Hadley!
But, here’s the real kicker. I am just blonde enough, while having immersed myself in a book entirely about Hemingway on the way down to the Keys, to have completely forgotten the man’s very history in Key West. (Although I tell myself, looking back now, that The Paris Wife, was all about his time in Paris, so it’s okay that I forgot about his time in the Keys. It is, right?). But, turns out the man did kind of live there for a decade, where he cranked out the majority of his note-worthy novels and his house now stands as a sacred monument and museum. Yeah, that part slipped my mind, when I wondered, worriedly, whether any small-time book store down there might have Hemingway’s first book. Surely this was going to be a long shot …
But, I was on a mission. I was going to go the extra mile. I was going to run to every book store on the island if I had to. I was going to find that book! So, right after we docked at Key West and got the quick tour of the marina and facilities from Postal Bob, I was trying to think of some reason to get away for a bit, just thirty minutes is all I figured I would need to make the run. I was pilfering through potential reasons and excuses in my head, when the Captain gave it to me. “What do you say we hit the shower?” he said.
I told the Captain to go on ahead and get his own suite while I rounded up my toiletries and would be right behind him. Right behind him … Yeah, after I made my jog to the book store. Once he was out of sight, I packed up my shower bag, grabbed my towel and wallet, slipped on my shower shoes and started running. I had no idea where I was going. This was my first time on the Keys—seriously, my first steps in that town were a heated jog in squishy shower shoes. But, I figured in a touristy town like this there HAD to be a bookstore nearby. Surely. And, hopefully they had at least heard of, and carried some books, penned by this famous Ernest Hemingway character. Hopefully.
Yes, these are the real thoughts that ran through my mind as I ran through the streets of Key West.
But, I had two pretty major problems. First, I had my shower bag with all my toiletries, a towel and change of clothes with me. Not something you want to be carrying when you’re trying to make a mad dash. It felt like an awkward ruck-sack, but I slung it way over my left shoulder and held it fast to my back with my left arm, leaving my right arm to swing wildly to keep my balance. Second, I was just wearing my bathing suit. Yes, just a bathing suit. Well, a bikini to be exact.
Yep, that one.
On the sailboat and in the marina, a bikini is decidedly the in look. Totally appropriate. While sprinting wildly through the streets of Key West … not so much. It’s kind of a novel sight. I was certainly getting some stares.
But, there were more problems. Let’s face it, I had plenty. A string bikini top is not really the proper sports apparel for sprinting. And, ladies, you can empathize with me on this one – while having your *throat clearing* ladies bouncing wildly around while you’re running in a bikini may work well for Pamela Anderson
when making an overly-dramatic nineties water rescue,
“IIIII’lll be reeeaddy. I’ll be ready!”
in the real world it’s not comfortable, not near as pretty, and is certainly not good for the ladies. Let those things flap around enough and you’ll end up with a pair that look far more like a common household fruit than a Pamela pair.
Yep, that one. Ladies, I think you know what I’m talking about …
Like I said … not pretty.
So, despite the inappropriateness of it (I mean, I’m already running around town in a bikini), I placed a firm right hand on the “ladies” to hold them in place while I ran, thinking the faster I run, the less they’ll see of me. Which didn’t seem to hold true. It seemed the faster I ran, the more attention I garnered, but it was too late. I was on a mission, and I was running out of time. I popped in a few shops and breathlessly asked where the nearest bookstore was. After getting a couple of conflicting reports, I decided to ask at the tourist train station. Surely the people that give TOURS of the bloody island are going to know exactly where the nearest bookstore is. I ran up and grabbed a tall bloke who was dressed like a conductor and spun him around by the arm.
Know that I will later, when Phillip and I are boarding the conch train, have to sheepishly avoid this man’s eye contact and pretend I’ve never seen him before. “No sir, you’ve never seen me before. I’m afraid we’ve never met. Now, Phillip, get on the darn train already! Let’s go!”
I pant out my question to him about the bookstore and, after a few silent seconds of him eyeing me up and down with a frown, he points me seven blocks and two streets over. Seven blocks?! Jesus!
But, I’m committed. I’ve already gone too far. By now it’s been about fifteen minutes. The Captain is probably already lathered up and singing showtunes in the shower by now, thinking I’m in the stall next to him, and I’m still bookless. I grab the ladies and start running. By about the fifth block, my shower shoes are letting out a horrendous squeal with every other step. I’m sweating like a fat farmer at the county fair and I’ve got a raw, red blister forming on the inside of my foot. Things are not looking good. But, I finally see it – the bookstore!There it is!
I fly in. Panting, sweating, pushing wet, matted hairs away from my face. The clerk who is ringing out some polite, well-clad fellow and clearly displeased with my sweaty, wild-eyed entrance, gives me one quick glare and then continues his tedious checkout process, taking his sweet time bidding the old man a farewell and discussing his upcoming reads.
I stand patiently in line, twitching and pulling at my bikini until it’s my turn. The clerk gives me a fervent stare before snarling at me, “Can I help you?”Ahh .. finally! Yes, yes! I hope you can.
“Yes. Tell me, have you heard of Ernest Hemingway? He’s kind of a famous author? Wrote A Farewell to Arms and some others? Would you happen to have any books by him?”
The man looked at me as if I had just pulled my eyelids inside out, stuck out my tongue and said “Dook wut I tan do!” Like I was seriously disabled, disoriented, or just downright disturbed. Completely unaware of my now tangible stupidity, I continued, “Hemingway? Ernest?” And, I’m trying to think of other books by Hemingway to help this poor teller understand the obviously obscure, around these parts anyway, author I am referring to. The poor clerk. Yeah, I know—NOW—the gravity of the situation. The poor Annie.
He looks at me dead-pan and blurts out flatly, “We have a whole Hemingway section.” He points behind me to a huge Hemingway display with the man’s name in big, block letters, pictures of him everywhere, and three whole racks of books by Hemingway, books about Hemingway, books even remotely mentioning Hemingway. How fortuitous! This random little book store in Key West, the place I ran to on an off-chance I would find a Hemingway book and they have a whole section on … Then—yes, only then—it starts dawning on me. Oh yeah, he lived here. This is Hemingway’s home … I remember my own shameful question,“Have you heard of Ernest Hemingway?” Ha! I now realize what a wildly entertaining scene I have made.
But, embarrassing myself is a daily occurrence in my world, and I really could care less what a blithering idiot I must have looked like when I started scouring the shelves and saw it. Right there in front of me. In Our Time … They had it. They actually had it. Hemingway’s first book! Now the whole sweaty, painful, embarrassing adventure was going to be worth it. They had it!
I bought the book, avoided the clerk’s pointed stare as I checked out, declined the 8×11 headshot of Hemingway that they give out free with any Hemingway purchase (although I’m wishing now I had kept it – but I did have a good bit of running left to do), and made my way out the door. I sprinted back to the showers, snuck into a stall and started washing up as fast as I could, texting Phillip and telling him the stalls were all booked when I came and that I’d had to wait to get in, but that “I’d be quick!” I hid the book in my shower bag and later wrapped it in paper towels from the bathroom to give to Phillip the next day. Like I said, the man loves experiences, stories, adventure, not pretty wrapping paper. I knew it wouldn’t matter to him. It’s one of the many things I love about the man. And, I had certainly earned a story to go along with it. I couldn’t wait to tell him, when he opened the gift the next day, all about my shower shoe adventure.
It’s funny how things tend to work themselves out when you’re sailing. We had a follower tell us a while back (and rightfully so) that the most dangerous thing you can have on a boat is a schedule. While time is decidedly always an issue – if only we all had an infinite supply we could go anywhere we want and stay six months – but the weather and wind and the sun also play a role in where you end up by boat. It’s often a place you didn’t expect to go; rather, it’s a place you chose when you thought the weather wasn’t “working with you,” but once you get there, you often decide it is most definitely a place at which you’re glad to have ended up. And, then you start to wonder whether the weather had it in mind all along …
So, the wind, in our minds, had not been “working with us” since we started off on this venture. It was directly out of the southeast, dead on our nose, for the entire first night and day of the trip. For that reason, we didn’t make near as much ground as we would have liked toward Clearwater, and with a known storm coming into the Gulf in the next day or two, we decided to pull out and head into Port St. Joe.
We had never been there before by boat, but we had heard great things. It wasn’t originally in the plans for us, but, that’s the thing about plans. But, as soon as we changed our heading toward St. Joseph Bay, we found ourselves on a perfect beam reach, making great headway, and doing some of our best sailing of the trip yet – right into the black abyss.
The wind has a wicked sense of humor. But it was like she was congratulating us on such a wise decision. We were sailing along so fast, we were going to reach Port St. Joe before sunrise, and – as many of you fellow cruisers I’m sure follow the same rule – on the ole’ Rest our goal is never to come into a new Pass at night, so we actually had to turn around and sail back out into the Gulf for a bit to make sure we didn’t beat the sun in.
It was a strange feeling to have worked so hard to make way forward for a day and a half, only to now turn around 180 degrees and sail for a few hours at 5.5 knots in the opposite direction. Like I said … funny how things work out.
But after an hour or two of sailing back out, we finally turned around again, and sailed back in to St. Joseph Bay right around sunrise. The fog was still so heavy we struggled to find even the flashing bouys. Markers you would typically see miles out would now only reveal themselves at about 100 yards.
I sat up at the bow and squinted through the mist to try and find them.
As the sun finally started to creep up and melt away some of the fog, we caught our first glimpse of land on the horizon and it turned out to be a beautiful morning.
Thankfully the inlet into St. Joseph Bay was an easy one and we made it into the marina and docked up without issue.
Between you, me and the fencepost (well, and all followers of this blog, I guess) I still get a little nervous every time we pull up to a dock because you just never know what’s going to happen. I have failed to lasso a stern pole, jumped off the boat without a line, and a-many other docking mishaps I have failed to mention on this blog that still cause me a little heartburn when we start pulling our big beauty out of the open blue and up next to treacherous pilings and other fiberglass beasts. A little tip – I always call ahead to the marina (despite the occasional eyeroll from the Captain) and ask them every time to send out a dock-hand (I’m assuming that’s a sufficient title) to help catch a line. I mean, it’s a big, expensive boat, our most prized possession, I’m not ashamed to ask for eight hands on deck to help save her. The marina at Port St. Joe has a reputation for being the “friendliest marina in all of Florida,” and I’ll say I have to believe it. They sent a young chap right out who proved to be an excellent line-catcher and he helped us get tied up and gave us a quick tour of the facilities. I can’t say enough good things about the folks at the Port St. Joe Marina. They all went above and beyond.
Plug that baby in!!
The Captain … always doing a double-check. (Rum drink in hand … )
Once the boat was secure, we set out to check out the marina office and get checked in.
Even the pets at Port St. Joe are friendly. We had a lovable white lab welcome us right in with a soft pant and a smile. (To my good friend Anna – he reminded me of Tugg!!)
The dockside bar there at the marina, looked the perfect place to try out the local Port St. Joe cuisine, so we settled in for some fine oysters and fish tacos.
The folks at the marina office gave us a great welcome packet with maps and flyers and coupons and told us we would have a paper delivered to the boat every morning, with free muffins on Sunday. I mean, who doesn’t like muffins? (Especially free ones!). The book swap was excellent, too. I had blazed through The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo, and I was looking for some new material. I scarfed up another Jack Reacher saga and a James Patterson,
and Phillip found a Hemingway novel he’d been meaning to read for a while – The Paris Wife.
We were definitely pleased to be in this Port. Great food, excellent facilities and our boat was nice and secure. We were plenty happy to spend a day or three here to wait out the weather.
While we hadn’t planned it, it all seemed to work out. Like I said, perhaps the weather had it in mind for us all along.