November 20, 2013 – Day One: The Rode Out West

With Big Mom tended to and Alabama in our rear-view, Phillip and I set to planning our Thanksgiving voyage.  Due to the rush trip to North Alabama for the funeral and the lost time from work, we both needed to put in a few days at the office to make up for it before we took off again, so we settled on a departure date of Wednesday, November 20th, which would still leave us 10 whole days at sea.  Now, while a trip east to Carrabelle, Apalachicola and the like was still do-able, it would be a stretch as Carrabelle, alone, is a two-day passage, assuming good weather, and I can tell you what we did not have that week was good weather.  A front was set to pass through, leaving us with 25-30 mph winds and a predicted 6-9 foot sea-state.  Not something you want to jaunt out in just for fun.  There were plenty of anchorages we had heard about on the western route, so we decided to stay protected along the ICW inshore and head west in search of (what else?) — women, whiskey and gold!

Here is an overview of our planned voyage:

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We planned to head over to Fort McRae first for a couple of days on the hook, then ease in to Pirate’s Cove to dock up and hang out with the local riff raff for a day or two.  From there, we would jump over to Ingram’s Bayou (a place many of our sailing buddies kept telling us was one of the most beautiful, pristine anchorages over that way) to drop anchor for a couple of quiet nights, before we made our way over to The Wharf in Orange Beach where we had reserved a slip for Thanksgiving.   Phillip’s clan was also planning to rent a condo there for the holiday and we – as true cruisers tend to do – were planning to make full use of their facilities!  There is nothing like a hot shower and a washer and dryer after seven days at sea!

All told, our trek out west was going to be about an 8-9 day trip and we had planned one last anchorage on the way back (likely Red Fish Point – just near Fort McRae) for one last night of solitude before heading back to the real world.

So, we set off on a brisk sunny Wednesday afternoon (Nov. 20th) and headed to our first stop — Fort McRae:

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Now, we’ve been to Red Fish Point many times, so the passage across Pensacola Bay and through the little inlet by Sand Island was all too familiar territory.  No sweat.  We could make that sail with our eyes closed (assuming, of course, no other boats, bouys, or a shore).  Stevie Wonder style!

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Yeah baby!

But, we had never made the “uey” around the corner and into the inlet between Sand Island and Fort McRae.

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And I’ll have you know I had to Google the word “uey” for the proper spelling.  Urban Dictionary says: 

  

To take a U-Turn 
   I guess this is a New England thing.
   Cab driver : “I’ll just bang(make a/take) a uey on the next stoplight”
Although I’m not sure that’s just a “New England” thing.  I think ‘to bang is to make’ rings true just about anywhere.  
We had a phenomenal sail over.  But, I will say, we had not been out on the boat in weeks and I think just about any conditions would have been ‘phenomenal’ to us as we were just thrilled to finally have water moving across the hull.  Although many may disagree, runny noses and chilly fingers just aren’t enough to make any sail UN-phenomenal in our book.  But, apparently we were a little rusty.  I’d love to say we executed the ‘uey’ around Sand Island perfectly and eased right on up into our anchorage by Fort McRae.  But that’s just not how it happened.  As we were making (banging I guess the New Englanders would say) the bend, the boat lurched forward and let out a slight groan.  With my hands on the bimini bar, I could feel the soft, thud of the ground we hit below.  And let me just say for the record – although I’m a little reluctant to admit it, we have done it a time or two now (run aground) – but it’s never a feeling you get comfortable with.  It’s a sickening, discomforting movement of the boat and instantly identifiable as contact with the treacherous bottom below.  Thankfully, for us, it was a soft, sandy bottom and Phillip had the sharp skipper skills to back us out, “bang out” a bigger loop and get us into Fort McRae with our keel in tact.
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Now, I’ve heard some people refer to this anchorage as “party alley” because it’s usually chock full of sailboats, power boats, trollers and the like.  Hence the “party.”  But, we were hoping that on Thanksgiving it would be pretty sparse so we would have plenty of room to spread out.  Sadly, that wasn’t the case.  There were three other boats in there, a marker for some sunken hazard, a bouy and a tight shoreline that we had to deal with.  Enter the infamous Swing Radius.  Now, most of you are smart enough to make a pretty good guess as to what that is, but humor me for just a moment for the newbies.

Imagine your anchor as the center of the circle.  The radius, then, is the distance from your anchor to the stern of your boat:

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Using the radius, you can then plot out a hypothetical ‘circle’ your boat could occupy depending on which way the wind or tide pushes it.  Now, with several “obstacles” around us – three other boats, an immovable marker for the sunken hazard, a bouy, and a nearby shore with outstretched shoal, we had to be sure we dropped enough anchor chain (known as “rode”) to hold our boat secure while not creating a swing radius so large it would allow us to strike the surrounding obstacles.  We typically like a 7:1 ratio.  Meaning, if we were in 7 feet of water, with 4 foot freeboard (distance from the water line to the deck), that’s 11 feet total depth, so 77 feet of rode.

Now, while getting the anchor set right is important, making sure we had a proper cocktail at sunset easily trumps it.  So, with the tight parameters, we dropped about 55 feet of anchor chain (an approximate 5:1 ratio with our ten feet of total depth) and set to our evening ritual.  A book and cocktail at sunset.  Could there be anything better?

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But then another boat pulled up nice and tight near us and set us both on edge.  We started looking around, running and re-running our calculation of the swing radius and speculating, once again, as to the approximate distance to the shore.

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With both of us being born fierce litigators and each a few drinks in and, thus, a little more ballsy to boot, Phillip and I embarked on an exhaustive debate about the swing radius.  I made a rough calculation and explained to Phillip my educated guess as to the radius, to which he naturally responded:

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With no one else on the boat with us, a riveting discussion ensued, in which I had to drop some serious geometry knowledge on Phillip that, if translated to a demonstrative aid, would look something like this:

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Length of Boat +  [ (Rode )– (Depth + Freeboard )2 ]1/2

Simple, right?  I thought so.  Or at least I was sure, in my eloquent, unslurred, precise and persuasive frame of mind, that it was.  And, I told Phillip as much.  To which he responded:

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Fine by me!  I had made my peace with it.  I offered my best pitch – full of reason and geometry and gin – and my plight had fallen on deaf ears (or ogling eyes – although I consider them to be synonymous).  I set about to “banging out” another drink or three and resting my weary mind while Phillip got up about every hour to try and make out the markers and shoreline in the dark of night as the wind began to howl over the boat.  I kept a shoulder turned to him, pretending to be sleeping soundly (lah-tee-dah) as he was checking GPS coordinates on his phone, but I was wide awake and just as worried as he.  The sounds and motions of the boat from below were incredibly deceiving.  What could just as easily have been the wind and a smooth shift of the boat in the water sounded, in the v-berth, like the keel wedging into sand and the boat preparing to tip over.  Neither of our weary minds were resting.  Phillip made one last trek topside, and I heard him walk up toward the bow, my eyes following the sound of his footsteps in the dark.  Then I heard them pound quick on the deck above as he scurried back to the hatch and shouted down to me:

“Annie, I need you up here now.  We’re moving.”

September 11, 2013 – The Money Shot!

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That’s a great shot, but that’s not it.  This shot – the money shot – is stellar.  Not only does it capture Phillip doing something totally awesome (but when does he not do things that are totally awesome?) but he did it right in the front of the boat, the glistening Plaintiff’s Rest.  This shot is supreme.  Trust me – but we’ll get there.  First thing’s first.

First we had to get that beautiful boat out there on the hook as often as we could between boat chores.  Let me give you some highlights of our summer anchorages (and I would imagine this song is the right backdrop for this rockin’ photo montage):

Just about every Friday at 5:00 p.m. (okay, who am I kidding – NOON!) we tossed the lines and headed out for the weekend.  We often went west to Red Fish Point where we stayed for our first anchorage.

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We enjoyed some exquisite sunset sails over:

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And you know what happens when we start sailing?  For those of you who said “clothes come off!” you would be right!  But, we also drink!  We are sailors you know!  Every time the sun would start to dip, we would whip up one of our famous “Oh Shiiiit” cocktails or pour a fine glass of wine.

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Nope, that’s not the money shot either.  Not yet.  Stick with me …

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We would often head east too, over to the Pensacola Beach area to anchor out behind Paradise Inn or Big Sabine:

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And we did some serious sailing along the way – I’m talking wing-on-wing!  That’s where the Jenny and the main are on opposite sides of the boat – one pulled out to starboard and one to port.  Looks like this:

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It is a technique used to maximize the sail surface in light wind to allow us to sail downwind when the wind is directly on our stern.  Here is our Jenny and main, wing-on-wing:

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And … we sailed her like that under the Bob Sykes bridge!  *gasp*

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But the scariest part was, Phillip let me steer her like that!

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A look of total concentration.  I was in the zone!

Thankfully, we made it under, boat in tact, bridge in rearview and a big smile on my face.

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Whew!!  

We had some buddies sail along with us on occasion to get some great shots of us sailing:

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Awesome shot, too, I must agree – but that’s still not it.  Almost!

We cooked up some mean meals on the boat:

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Sirloin steaks with chimmichurri?  Yes, please!  But, the wind often blew so hard it would blow out the flame on our grill.  Have wind will NOT cook!  So, guess whose job it was to hold up a cover while the meat cooked.

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That’s right – you guessed it – the First Mate’s!

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But it was totally worth it.  I mean … look at that feast!  We really don’t eat well on the boat, I’m telling you.  Not well at all!

We blew up my new inflatable SUP!

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That thing was a beast to blow up.  Definitely good for the “gun show!”  We had a great time paddling around, though, once she was inflated:

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Then we deflated her and rolled her right back up.

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Great for storing on the boat, not so good for the back.  It is a wee bit of a chore but again – totally worth it – because we always finish our chores up with a drink (or four)!

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Nope, that is STILL not the money shot – although he is a sexy beast!  Don’t you just hate it!

We met up with some buddies and shared a case of PBR:

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Then they passed out!

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And their little dog too!  As did we!  Day-drinking is hard.

Our “Sail Groupies” (Phillip’s folks) often came out to hang out with us on the hook:

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They eat a lot!  But we don’t mind.  We feed them so they’ll take us out wakeboarding:

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And, they helped us get it.  Yes, IT.  The Money Shot.  Phillip’s dad pulled him right around in front of our boat and Phillip threw up a “hang ten” sign so I could snap this sizzling number.  I give you – The Money Shot:

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Oh yeeeaaahhh!  That is money.  Looks like the opening trailer for a bad-ass movie to me.  I believe this is the appropriate accompaniment: Big Pimpin’

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Life on the hook is hard.

August 10, 2013 – All Work and (some) Play – Poolside!

Boat projects were definitely abundant, now that we had the bottom job done on the boat and she was home, tucked safely away in a cozy slip at Palafox Pier:

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We found a great slip at the very end, protected by a sea wall on one side with a floating finger dock on the other, and it’s just a short jump out into the Bay:

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While tossing the lines and jumping out in the bay is definitely always a better alternative, we had a growing list of things we needed to do to the boat to ready her for some real cruising this winter.   We started it the day of the Survey/Sea Trial many moons ago and it always seemed to be growing.

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Full list HERE.

I could go into laborious detail (trust me, the projects were plentiful – I told you, owning a boat is a lot of work!) but let’s get a condensed version, shall we?  Over the course of the summer, amidst anchorages, sunset sails and other fun outings, Phillip and I did the following to the boat:

Changed out the batteries:

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If you recall, the batteries (which were already about 3-4 years old) ran completely down when the boat was unplugged in Carabelle.  As our buddy Kevin had warned us and he ended up being right (hate when that happens!), the complete run-down did have a devastating effect on the batteries.  They were never able to fully recover and truly hold a charge after that, so we had to slap four new ones in.  Not cheap!  But, thankfully, in exchange for exactly 3.5 beers, Bottom-Job Brandon helped us get them in and wired up.

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We also cleaned up the wiring in the electronics panel and put in a new bus bar to reduce the number of connections on each terminal:

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We fixed the leak at the base of the mast by injecting silicone in/around the bolt heads and re-taping the boot cover:

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I got a little crafty again with some inexpensive fabrics from a place that rhymes with Schmal-Mart and made a cover for the power cord and fenders:

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Now you see that hideous yellow cord …

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Now you don’t …   Cord-WOW!  

That thing was a beast to wrestle though.  I tangled with that 50-foot anaconda for three days:

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The fender covers were much easier:

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(And, yes, this was all crafted with my trusty hot glue gun and stapler.  I love my Swingline!)

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“Haa … have you seen my stapler?”

To up the “bling” factor, we polished all of the metal through-out:

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And, last but not least, we replaced some gaskets in the coolant system on the engine:

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Yes, some days on the boat look like this.  It’s not all rainbows and sunshine.  And, it’s not spacious either. To get this job done, I had to cram down into the engine room on the boat.  A nice series of me crawling out of this dirty, grimy hole (through a tiny opening in the aft-berth) will help you truly appreciate the tightness of these quarters:

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Where’s Annie?

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There she is!  Now c’mon out Annie!

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Uggh ….  Grunt … 

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I now know why they call it aft-berth!  That’s about what it felt like – trust me.

But, thankfully, every time we spent a hot sweaty afternoon doing chores on the boat, we always ended it with a dip in the pool by our slip.

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We can even see the top of our mast from the pool:

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That way, we can sip pinot gris pool-side comfortably knowing she’s at least still up-right and floating.  And, speaking of, I have to mention our Cup-WOW wine glasses that also sit up-right and float in the pool.

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I mean, could there be a better invention?  Wooowwww!!

And, the best part is, letting the glass float around in the pool helps warm up too-chilly white wines because the water is pretty warm.  Not for that reason.  I never do that in pools!  I’m always afraid they’re going to have that secret blue dye that will show up and I’ll be feverishly swishing a cloud of blue water toward the old guy next to me with the rubber duckie floatie pointing at him with a face of total disgust.  I never pee in pools!  (At least not without conducting a little squirt dye test first!).

So, with our boat chores done (for the moment at least), our mast upright and our wine perfectly warmed, we enjoyed many-a-lazy afternoon by the pool, which usually progresses in this manner:

Read …

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Relax …

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ZZZZZZZ …….

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Working on boats is hard!

June 28, 2013 – Life on the Hook

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Yes, that’s what it looks like.  Life on the hook.  Well, on anchor, that is.  The technical definition is “living on a boat and anchored some place not attached to firm land or bottom.” (http://manateefritters.com/2012/07/13/going-to-live-on-the-hook/).  Gorgeous, ain’t it?  I know now how great it can be, but, I have to tell you – this whole time – I did not.  I didn’t know how mind-blowingly blissful the sailing lifestyle could be.  It’s like when the doctor asks you what news you want to hear first: the good or the bad?  You always say the bad.  Get it over with right?  Right.  I think that’s exactly what I did.

For this entire Gulf Crossing, transmission busting, Dasani-bottle fluid catching, mast-climbing, greasy, sweaty, exhausting ride we’ve been on, I had yet to see the real reward, the true benefit of the sailing lifestyle: LIFE ON THE HOOK.  Realize, I had yet to even know what it feels like to drop the anchor (not once) and have the boat stop in the middle of the water.  Just STOP.  No worrying about depth, or the wind or transmission fluid.  No hoisting sails or pulling in lines.  No checking the engine, refilling the coolant, watching the oil temp, watching the horizon for wayward ships, buoys or crab traps.  Once we dropped the anchor, the boat … just … stopped.  And she was safe, and secure, and poised right in the middle of a beautiful cove about 100 feet from the shore.  At first, I didn’t know what to do with myself.  Without any “work” to be done, I was a little lost.  You mean, I can just sit back and have a drink and enjoy the sunset?  Phillip said, “You can do whatever your little heart desires.”  

Ahhhh … life on the hook.  Let me give you a little taste.  Here’s where we went:

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It was about a 3-hour sail (that, thankfully, ended much better than Gilligan’s tour).  Pensacola Bay is huge and catches a lot of fetch.  It’s a great sailing bay and seems there’s always enough wind to do something with.  We headed over to Red Fish Point, near Fort McRee (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fort_McRee).  It is a barrier island covered with sugary, white sand and a federal park to preserve the remnants of the civil war area fort that remains.  The park is accessible primarily only by boat and appears to be lost in time, preserved and serene, like it’s a thousand miles from anywhere.    We had a beautiful sail over.

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We were just thrilled to have the boat back in the water, the lines tossed and the two of us headed out for anchorage.

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As I sit here today, I really can’t think of a better feeling.  Oh, wait, sun on our skin!

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I told you clothes come off when we sail.  And, we were sailing!  It felt so incredible.  It’s like the stress and toil of the shore you’re leaving behind just seems to stay there.  It doesn’t come out there on the boat with you.  The most important thing is the wind.  That’s the only thing you’re concerned about.  Sailing is incredibly freeing.

The minute we dropped anchor and I had the option to “do whatever my little heart desired,” I dove right in the water, first thing.

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I know.  Looks kind of like a dolphin, but I assure you: ‘Tis me!

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My little heart was soaking this “life on the hook” gig up.  Loving every minute of it.  It was quite a haul, but we swam all the way to shore.  The sand was a brilliant white that felt cool and smooth under our feet.

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And, it made sort of a crunching, squeaking sound when we walked on it.   

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Fun little fact for you:

Did You Know?

The stunning sugar white beaches of Gulf Islands National Seashore are composed of fine quartz eroded from granite in the Appalachian Mountains. The sand is carried seaward by rivers and creeks and deposited by currents along the shore.

I mean … was there life before Google?  (I’ll credit my brilliant friend Meagan for that revelation!)

We spent the afternoon swimming to/from shore (clothes on), then dried off and poured some wine to sip on while we watched the sunset.

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As usual, she did not fail to impress.  It was absolutely gorgeous.

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But, after all the swimming, we were ready for dinner.  We set up the grill for the first time, which was a bit of an event for us.  It hooks on the stern rail and connects to the propane supply on the boat.

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Phillip hooked her up like a champ and threw some chicken on the grill.  I sauteed some spinach and baked a fresh loaf of bread down below and – voila! – we had ourselves a right and proper feast!

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I know, right there in the cockpit, a four star dinner?  I was amazed.  This anchorage stuff was totally tolerable.  We did have one mini fiasco, though (as is always the case with us) when we were cleaning up for dinner.  There is certainly no garbage disposal on the boat, so you have to be careful not to let any food particles go down the sink drain.  You either have to put a strainer in the drain or scrape the dishes over the side of the boat before washing.  We chose the latter.  Phillip stacked the plates and everything in the pot we used to cook the spinach and went topside to start scraping.  I heard him fidgeting and struggling with something and he finally stuck his head down and said “It’s stuck.”  Stuck??  What’s stuck?  “The plate,” he said.  “In the pan.  I can’t get it out.”  He brought it down to the galley and I had to laugh.  It truly was stuck.

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One of the dinner plates had slid down nice and snug in the base of the pan and, with a little soapy water underneath it, it was suctioned in there like a leech in the wrong place.

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Don’t worry, I “stood by” Phillip and tried to help.  I got that pot on the stove and tried to extract the plate with a screw driver and a hammer, using some real technical surgical skills I picked up in Nam.

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Phillip even gave it a go, but that thing wasn’t budging.

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We had wedged a knife in, but even that wasn’t working.

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So, we decide to heat things up.  We put that baby on the burner and lit her up, hoping the steam from the water below would free the plate.  She started bubbling up, and popping and sputtering.  I thought the plate was going to explode.  I was skeered.

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With one final pop and no free plate, Phillip decided it was time the plate made a sacrifice.  He went topside with the screwdriver and hammer and I was sure he was planning to demolish it.  I heard some banging and a rousing “Eff you plate!” and he came down with an empty pot and plate shards.  I kept a piece to go along with the bolt head that sheared off during the Crossing, costing us the dinghy.  I’m going to make a wicked shadow box someday.

With the dinner fiasco finally resolved, we poured some more wine (yes, more) and watched the moon rise and the stars come out.  Again, it was perfection.

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But, it certainly paled in comparison to the sunrise the next morning.  It was my first on anchor and it was magnificent.  I think I shed a tear or two, it was so beautiful.  Okay, I didn’t, but I certainly took a lot of pictures!  This is only 4 of the 59 I snapped that morning so know that I culled it down for you:

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We spent the day swimming, reading, napping, eating, drinking, swimming some more, napping some more and enjoying every minute of the day.  Life on the hook makes you truly appreciate every moment.  We whipped together another gourmet dinner that night.  Our go-to shrimp feta pasta (recipe here: http://havewindwilltravel.com/2013/09/23/may-25-2013-no-comment-the-crossing-finale-not-very-pc/), paired with some crisp rosé and enjoyed the sunset and dinner in the cockpit.

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Sunset turned into moonrise and

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like magic, I was “hooked.”  This mate was ready to anchor anywhere!  We were right here at “home,” just outside of Pensacola Bay, but, I swear, we could have been anywhere, the Keys, the Islands, half-way around the world.  This boat was ready to take us there.  It was that night, we started planning our grand adventure.

May 27, 2013 – THE CROSSED!

So, after Dasani bottles and duct tape, what do you think the next most important item on a boat is?  A plunger?  No.  Unfortunately, if the head stops working, that glorious contraption of wood and rubber is not going to save you.  Try again.  Something incredibly important, like transmission fluid or oil?  The infamous ” Johnson rod,” maybe?

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A what?!?   A Johnson rod:

Seinfeld: The Fusilli Jerry (#6.20)” (1995)

George Costanza: [about mechanics] Well of course they’re trying to screw you! What do you think? That’s what they do. They can make up anything; nobody knows! “Why, well you need a new johnson rod in here.” Oh, a Johnson rod. Yeah, well better put one of those on!

You’re right.  I’m sure it’s something incredibly important.  But, during those early morning hours of May 27th, as we were coming into the marina in Pensacola, I’ll tell you what it was.  Paper towels.  Strong and brawny ones!
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Mmmm … ain’t he a beaut?  And, just for fun – it appears they cleaned old Mr. Brawny up over the last decade.  Apparently today’s “modern woman” just wasn’t digging the 70’s ‘stache and blonde shag, so we get the preppy, shaved, PC version.  Sad times.
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But I digress.  So, we were nearing the marina and our Dasani catch bin was full to the brim with pink fluid jostling around, just waiting to drip over and spill into the bilge.  While transmission fluid in the bilge is not a huge deal, it’s certainly not an ideal one.  If it gets down there, it’s got to be pumped out and cleaned up and otherwise dealt with.  Needless to say, it was best for us to catch the fluid if we could.  So, I wedged myself down near the open engine and held up a wad of the old Brawnies under the transmission shifter arm to catch the drip until we got just a few minutes away, then I wadded up the biggest bundle of paper towels I could (about the size of a basketball) and shoved it down in the bilge to catch whatever dripped while we docked.  A mighty fine ‘sorbant pad if you will.
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hq1pcy2EPE8

And, you laugh, but I now know that the standard-issue oil absorbent pad, which we now keep under the engine at all times, really does look just like a wadded-up Depends undergarment.

So, with my make-shift “Depends” in place, I was ready “get back into life” and get topside to help Phillip.  But, now we’re docking again, and we all know how exceptionally great I am at that.  So, of course, my heart is beating and thumping out of my chest.  My hands are all sweaty and I keep stubbing my toe on things as I’m scrambling to tie lines and hang bumpers.  We were coming in here to the Palafox Pier in Pensacola:

Palafox Pier

From slip

Here’s the birdseye view:

Birdseye

We were planning to just tie up at the fuel dock while we got our things together and wait for the dockmaster to find us a temporary slip for the day.  Our first plan once we got the boat to Pensacola was to have it hauled out for a bottom job.  That’s where they pull it out of the water with giant straps and set it up on jacks in a shipyard to sand and re-paint the hull.  We knew that would mean a couple of weeks out of the water, so we didn’t have a permanent slip lined up yet.  If you recall from the survey, we knew we were going to have to have a bottom job on ours done as soon as we got her home as our surveyor (you remember the ever-charming Kip):

Pics from Phone 908

“Every gal loves a good banging first thing in the morning!”

had found the potential leak in the core where the strut is fastened to the hull as well as several blisters in the paint on the hull that were allowing sea water in (http://havewindwilltravel.com/2013/05/12/april-3-2013-the-surveysea-trial/).  Saltwater is just rough on everything, and every sailboat needs to have its bottom work redone once every 3-4 years.  We knew it was time for ours so we had scheduled her for a paint a polish as soon as we got back.  But, if you’re checking the calendar, you’ll see the day we pulled into that fateful dock was, unfortunately, Memorial Day (May 27, 2013), so she was scheduled to be hauled out the next business day – May 28th.  As luck would have it, we had arrived a day ahead of schedule this time but if the initial Crossing taught us anything it was to never try to sail anywhere in a hurry.  Always build in a few days’ cushion for weather, wind, boat problems. transmission leaks, complete engine failures, you know – the usual boat stuff.  So, we just needed a temporary spot at Palafox Pier for the night.  A transient slip they are called.   But, the guys that run the marina don’t tend to open up shop at 5:30 a.m. just in case some rogue midnight traveler needs a transient slip, so we planned to tie up at the fuel dock while we waited for the dockmaster to arrive at 8:00 a.m.

This was our path in to the fuel dock:

Path to fuel dock

Now, while I’m sure you may have tired by now of my many harrowing tales of our numerous docking debacles (docking is scary!), I will try your patience for just one more, because the true hero here was Phillip.  The wind was strong that morning (of course!), blowing about 12-15 mph right out of the east:

Wind

Which meant it was blowing our nose right off the dock:

Boat

As Phillip began pulling the boat up alongside the dock, the wind kept pushing us off and the gap between the bow, and even the midship, and the dock kept widening.  I just couldn’t make the leap (without losing a limb or two or my teeth when I hit the dock on the way down – and, to be honest, I’m kind of fond of all of those appendages – particularly the teeth).  I had a line clenched tight in my hand, this time, but it was just too far to jump.  I didn’t know what to do, but thankfully Phillip did.  He was still close enough to the dock at the stern to leap off, stern line in hand (smart man!) and tie it quick to a cleat.  He then ran forward and shouted at me to throw him the bow line.  I wadded a few loops in my hand, gritted my teeth and tossed it up in the air.  Phillip and I watched breathlessly as it snaked out, slowly unwinding and floating toward him.  It was like Rookie of the Year pitching the famous “floater”:

Rookie

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HJWYzmJslis

You can imagine the dramatic Hollywood score playing in the background and the bright clang of the cymbals as Phillip caught the tail end of the line.  Trumpets blared!  He pulled the bow of the boat to the dock and told me to go back to the stern and kill the engine.  I did, and the silence of the moment suffocated us.  Everything was suddenly so inordinately quiet.  There was no motor running, no shouting, no water or waves.  Just silence … and safety.  Phillip and I just sat for a minute on the dock, staring at her in disbelief.  There she was, our boat, tied to the dock in Pensacola.  She was safe, secure, home.  We had finally done it.

May 26, 2013 – The Crossing Finale – Best Sail of Our Lives

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The sun peeked up above the horizon around 6:00 a.m. the next morning, finding us stretching and blinking in the cockpit, ready for a big cup of coffee and a crisp morning sail.  We readied the boat, taped up a new catch bin under the transmission and tossed the lines.  The sea that morning was calm and the waves were dancing and playing around the boat, literally pulling us home.  We headed out of the pass at Panama City and set our sights west towards Pensacola.

to pensacola Revised

To this day, Phillip and I still talk about that sail, with a dreamy look in our eyes, a blissful, breathy sigh and, sometimes, a small salty tear in one eye.  Okay, no tear – those are just allergies – but we always refer to that sail as the “best sail of our life.”  Because it was.  The sea state was calm, 2 to 3 foot waves lulled and pushed our boat, and the water was a soft, denim blue.

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It was a beautiful, sunny May day (not “May Day!” — just a day in May) and we spent most of the morning basking up on the foredeck and watching horizon.

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And please do note here the fancy schmancy trash bag tied to the shroud.  Just so happens we lost the flag with the dinghy (http://havewindwilltravel.com/2013/06/24/april-17-23-2013-the-crossing-chapter-five-a-harrowing-debacle/)and this was our rigged-up wind indicator in the interim: a good old Glad trash bag tied to a pole.  We do get creative on the boat!

At one point we were sitting in the cockpit and Phillip saw a patch of light brown ahead on the water.  He started checking the map and the depth gage to make sure it wasn’t a shoal sticking out that would cause us to run aground (we’re always worried about that damn depth!).  He asked me to go up to the bow and look to see what it was.  As I went forward, I could see the big, brown patch he was talking about but as we neared it, I could tell it was just some dirty, frothy blob of something floating out to sea.  For my environmentally conscious followers out there, I’m sure it wasn’t pollutants, or radio-active at least.  It was just sea junk.  But it was shallow there, about 8 feet and the water was a crystal green, so clear I could see straight through to the bottom.  Just as I was looking down admiring the water, five, six, seven dolphins came swimming up and around the bow of our boat, rolling around on each other, playing, jumping and diving.

Dolphins 2

Dolphins 3

Like a tweenager at a Justin Bieber concert, I started giggling and screaming at the sight of them.  (And know that I had to Google Bieber to make sure I spelled it right – apparently it’s “i” before “e” – that’s just how big a fan I am).   I scared Phillip half to death back in the cockpit, him thinking we were about to run up on a shoal and wreck the whole boat.  But, I quickly assured him, it was just the most amazing sight I’d ever seen – no big deal.  Those dolphins really were something.  I’ve never seen so many swimming around and playing together like that.  As a fun little aside, I now know what I think they were doing, click here if you’re interested: http://scienceline.ucsb.edu/getkey.php?key=1132.

While the dolphins were certainly “pleasurable,” the rest of that sail is what Phillip and I are really talking about when we mention the “best sail of our life.”  It was around noon that day, and we’d just had a great lunch, a refreshing drink and were kicked back enjoying the sail when the wind came on us south, southwest at about 10-12 knots.  The sails filled and never moved.  We stayed on that tack for 16 hours.  Six-teen.  We barely had to hold the wheel, the sails were so balanced.

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We set the auto pilot so it could make the centimeter adjustment that was needed every hour,

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All set here Cap’n.  Turn on the “Otto!”

then we moved up to the foredeck picnic style, with snacks, chairs, a book, and just enjoyed life.  Phillip said he had never been a tack that long.  It was incredible.  The sea state started to pick up into the evening,

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but it stayed on the same angle, south southwest, which only meant we went faster, still perfectly balanced, still gliding right along on our path with the helm needing only intermittent supervision.

Around ten, we saw fireworks on the horizon.  Just tiny little dots exploding above the water.

Firework 2

We thought it might have been Destin, although we weren’t sure, we were so far from shore.  But it didn’t matter where they were coming from, in our minds, they were for us.  Our own little private fireworks show in the middle of the Gulf.

And, the moon that night was exceptional.  It was bigger and brighter than I had ever seen it before, with defined crevices and craters crawling all over it.

Moon

Just amazing.  It felt like we had a beacon spotlight pouring into the cockpit all night long.  We kept turning around out of habit to see what big ass barge was coming up on us with that blinding light.  We felt like those teenagers who got caught fooling around in the backseat in the parking lot when the cop comes up and shines a blinding light through the window.  But, turns out, it was just the moon.  It was shocking how clearly we could see everything.  I could hold up my hand and see every wrinkle (yes, my hands have wrinkles – they work hard) in the middle of the night.  And, it was a little cool so we were wearing our fleeces.  We huddled up with some mugs of hot tea and just sat, letting the sound of the wind blowing through the sails entertain us.  No incessant chatter, no small talk, and especially no freaking Delilah.

We neared Pensacola Pass around 4:00 a.m. and I tell you (aside from the time I jumped off without a line) I’ve never seen Phillip’s eyes light up like that.  He looked like a little boy about to get a big cotton candy at the fair, sticky little fingers outstretched, hopping on one toe.  He was finally home.  Finally in waters he recognized.  I’ll never forget his face when he saw the Pensacola Lighthouse.  And, it really was neat to think this was the same lighthouse that had been bringing sailors into the Pensacola Pass for centuries.

Pensacola Lighthouse

http://www.pensacolalighthouse.org/index/history/early-history.  That’s right.  That life-saving beacon was built in 1824 (for a smooth $5,000 too!) and has been spinning ever since.  Phillip and I took the tour a while back and really enjoyed it.  The history and building are breath-taking.

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With the lighthouse guiding us, we came into the Pass and started making our way home, having agreed that would forever be the best sail of our lives.  Everything had been so perfect.  Apparently too perfect.  We finally had to pull off of our tack, that beautiful, glorious 16-hour tack, and crank the engine.  Yes, the engine.  The root of all evil!   But it was the first time we’d had to crank it in about a 20-hour passage so all-told, it was worth it for that perfect sail.  But, we had to have the engine to maneuver our way toward the pier.  I went down to check on our catch bin and unfortunately she was filling up quickly.  I know, the damn transmission again – could it BE anything else??  If you recall, in order to dump the “caught” fluid back into the transmission, we had to kill the engine and let her cool for about 10 minutes before I could touch the bolt to the transmission chamber to pour the fluid back in.  Unfortunately, though, we really didn’t have ten minutes of sea to be a-floating through aimlessly.  The wind was not working in our favor in the Bay and we needed the engine to keep us on track toward the entrance to the pier.  We had to have a motor running, but our bin was filling fast.  I was watching it rise to the top, clocking the speed of the drops, and trying to guess how much time we had left.

I hollered up to Phillip, “I think we’ve got about five minutes left on this bottle.”

Phillip hollered back, “We’ve got about ten minutes left to go.”

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