November 27, 2013 – Day Eight: “What’ll It Be, Sir?”

I have to admit our night with the riff raff ended in a cloudy fog that I cannot adequately capture with written words (mainly, because I can’t remember it).  I only know we made it back to the boat at some point and fired up the heater without burning any blankets or appendages because we woke up there, alive and surprisingly warm, despite the temp drop to the mid-30s that night.  We blinked and squinted our way back to the ole’ Cove mid-morning to meet our buddy, the infamous Mitch, for a greasy cheeseburger (perfect hangover cure) and were pleased to learn from the friendly Cove Crew that Pirate’s Cove is reportedly the place where the reigning Parrot Head himself wrote the smash hit Cheeseburger in Paradise.

Jimmy-Buffett

I have to say I’d agree with him.  The cheeseburger was first rate.

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I also found this fun review of the place, which I think confirms my rendition of the riff raff we found at the Cove:

“Cheeseburger in Paradise!”

4 of 5 starsratingtripadvisor_rating   Reviewed February 21, 2013

“Best burger north of Sea and Suds. This is a locals hangout-don’t come here if you are in a hurry, have an attitude, or are an overbearing Yankee – you won’t like it!”

http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g30502-d825250-r152726759-Pirates_Cove_Marina_and_Restaurant-Elberta_Alabama.html

I think the same rings true for sailing in general, so the Cove was an easy fit for Phillip and I.  We certainly enjoyed our time with the riff raff.  Plus, being tied up to the dock near running water and restrooms is nice.  We spent a few hours the first morning hauling several one-gallon jugs of water back and forth from the dock to fill our water tanks on the boat and by the fourth or fifth trip, one of the Cove Crew told us: “You know you can just pull around here and use the hose.”  They really are a great bunch.  We stayed a day or two at the Cove, but we knew we had a front coming that was going to bring some strong northeast winds (30 mph gusts were predicted), and we did not want to be tied up to the dock, banging around, when those winds hit.  So, on Sunday, November 24th, we tossed the lines and headed over to Ingram’s Bayou to spend a few nights on the hook.

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Several local cruisers had told us about Ingram’s Bayou and described the little inlet as a well-kept secret, preserved and pristine, like camping on some tucked-away river.  That sounded perfect to us.  We donned our sailing gear and headed west.

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But, sadly, we were not able to do any sailing.  It’s a tight, short passage on the ICW from Pirate’s Cove to Ingram’s Bayou so we had to motor.  And, it was pretty chilly.  So much so, we kept our hands tucked away in warm places and steered with other body parts:

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Knocking me out with those American thighs!

Now, after the anchor fiasco at Fort McRae, we were prepared to drop 150 feet of chain this time if necessary.  We were going to shoot for a 10:1 ratio – at least.  I started layering on the Gorton’s fisherman outfit as we took a lay of the land, made some rough eyeball calculations of our swing radius and prepared to drop anchor.

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Before it was all said and done, we had laid out about 165 feet of chain.  We were not going to find ourselves jumping up and down again all night, watching the shore and worrying about our anchor.  Or so we thought.  Feeling firmly planted, we did what we do best when we drop anchor – made cocktails (some Oohh Shiiiiit!s) and toasted the sunset.

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That last pic is about as good as Lyden’s Swan over a Crack – in my humble opinion.  But, it’s easy to capture such brilliant shots when you have such an exquisite backdrop.  Ingram’s Bayou was indescribably beautiful.

But, our first night there, the front came through and we experienced some of the most powerful, horrific winds ever to whip over our boat.  Laying in the v-berth, we could hear the wind howl over the deck, the halyard lines would shimmy and vibrate and the anchor chain would groan and creak until the boat finally shifted resulting in a thunderous pop of the chain.  It sounded deceivingly destructive from below, like the boat was surely cracking at the seams.  But it was not.  We checked several times during the first couple of hours that night and, although we were swinging around wildly, facing north one minute, and hurling around to the south the next, we were decidedly not moving.  Our 165 feet of chain was holding fast.  And, we had added some extra chafe guards to our snubber line that were doing their job as well.  We were secure.  And, thanks to Mr. Heater, we were warm, too.  We hunkered down for three brutally cold and windy days in Ingram’s Bayou, with friends and family constantly checking in: “You guys okay?”  “You staying warm?”  “Are you still out there?”

We were definitely out there.  “Out there” is where we always want to be, cold front of not.   We spent three of the most quiet, relaxing, peaceful days I have ever spent anywhere bundled up in Ingram’s Bayou, reading, napping, cooking, eating and just enjoying the serenity.

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Oh, and drinking.  It appears we did a bit of that, too.  We tend to.  Reading was the favorite past-time, though.  I polished off Gillian Flynn’s other novel – Dark Places (a deliciously twisted follow-up to the infamous Gone Girl)  breezed through David Sedaris’ Me Talk Pretty One Day (an entertaining perspective from a gifted satirist) and dove right in to Garth Stein’s Art of Racing in the Rain (a dog-lovers’ dream – a true treat of a book).  Phillip entertained me with hilarious, hearty sea stories from Frank Papy’s Sailing: Impressions, Ideas, Deedsbefore he really dug into Wally Lamb’s I Know This Much is True, which he devoured and described as one of the most engaging, honest renditions of the human condition he has ever encountered.  It’s on my list.

We did venture out into the cold on occasion to check the depth of our swing radius and explore the little inlets and sunken treasures in the bayou.

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My Gorton’s fisherman outfit continued to layer and grow with each outing.

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The jacket doesn’t zip, so I strapped on a fanny-pack style pfd to hold it all together.

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High fashion.

We had a slip reserved at The Wharf for Thanksgiving, so we pulled anchor Wednesday morning (November 27th) and headed over that way.

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We were going to have to stop first  at the fuel dock to pump out before we could tie up at our slip.  It had been eight days on the boat, folks, think about it.  The wind was really howling as we neared the dock so I bundled up some more (yes, more) and prepared to jump off to secure the boat as fast as possible.  We were not going to have another Annie docking debacle.  Not that day.

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As Phillip inched the bow up next to the dock, I jumped off (line in hand this time) and clamored around furiously cleating lines off to keep the boat on the dock.  It was a bit of a scramble but we did it.

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But, when the fuel boy came out to see what we needed, the first thing he said to me was:  “What’ll it be, sir?”

I can’t imagine why … 

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November 21, 2013 – Day Two: Another Dinghy Debacle

Heeding Phillip’s shout for help, I scrambled out of the companionway hatch in my skivvies for a quick, chilly look-about, and he was right.  We had definitely moved.  The anchor light of the ‘nice and tight’ boat that had come up on us around sunset, which had once been inline with our cockpit, was now inline with our bow.  Gulp.  And, although it was dark, we could both make out the shoreline in the moonlight and it looked to be about ten feet closer than it had been when we had settled in for the night.  Apparently, the 5:1 ratio we had dropped wasn’t enough.

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You see the chart here where it says “too short – anchor may not hold.”  They’re sugarcoating it.  It should say, “you didn’t lay out enough rode, you dumbass – you’re screwed.”  At least that’s how we felt.  It was clear the boat was inching back toward the shore.  We were going to have to pull the anchor up, motor forward and drop her back down.  Snot was already freezing to my face, so I scrambled down below and started snatching every item of clothing I could find and throwing it on.  I probably looked like a bag lady when I came up.  I had on my long johns, Phillip’s t-shirt, leggings under pajama pants, a couple of scarves wrapped around my neck, a Christmas sweater, a tobaggan, my foul weather jacket and rain boots.  But, I’m sure I made it look super sexy and smoking hot.

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High fashion.

I refuse to believe I actually looked like this:

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“Hey-haaay Cap’n!  Let’s drop us an anchor!”

In the blistering cold, the black of night, we did it.  We pulled the anchor up.  Now, if you recall, Phillip has told me before that two of the most entertaining things you can watch a couple do are dock and anchor.  Either is sure to be a catalyst for whatever tension might have been building between them during the trip.  The process usually involves a lot of shouting, subtle (or not so subtle) insults and accusations and eventually name-calling.  I am proud to say that Phillip and I have become pretty adept at it, and our process involves only hand-signals and code.  Particularly after this trip, where we gained a good deal of anchor experience.  Me, in particular, who works the bow.  On our boat, we’ve got a windlass which pulls the anchor up by motor.

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It’s a nice luxury to have since our rode is entirely chain, with the anchor alone weighing approximately thirty-five pounds.  We also have a deck wash that hooks in at the bow and pulls in sea water to spray the mud off of the chain as the windlass hoists it up.  From the first time he used it, Phillip always said “The deck wash is king!”  And, while I agreed it was a handy little device to have when you’re pulling anchor, I wasn’t quite as enamored as he.  Until, I had to learn the hard way (it seems that is the only way I truly learn) when the deck wash got clogged one time, and I had to hoist approximately 20-30 bucketfuls of seawater up to the bow to wash each link of that retarded chain off via bucket slosh, cursing it the entire time.  Covered in sweat and my biceps and lower back screaming at me by the time I finished, I trudged back to the cockpit where Phillip made me reiterate it again.  “The deck wash is king, right?”

Yes, the deck wash is king.

But, the only bad thing about the deck wash is that it sprays water everywhere.  Particularly when the wind is howling and you’re spraying right into it, as we were that night.  While my “bag lady” look was warm when dry, it was anything but when wet, and I got soaked.  By the time we moved forward and re-dropped the anchor (100 feet plus this time, and nothing short of it!), I was frozen through.  My fingers were barely functional and I couldn’t even feel my toes.  I swore the next time we pulled anchor, I was busting out the Gorton’s fisherman outfit.  Head to toe.  And I did!

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Misses Gorton ain’t got nothing on me!  I rocked that number.

With our anchor secure, we woke the next morning to find the shore at a nice, safe distance.IMG_5114

Whew!

With 100 feet+ out, and a clean swing radius, we felt good about the anchor and decided it was time to go toodling around in our dinghy to explore our anchorage.  Now, while you all are familiar with our downtrodden dinghy that made it’s way back to us from the middle of the Gulf, while she was making that wayward trek, we had a very generous boat buddy, Bottom-Job Brandon, give us an inflatable dinghy we could use in the meantime.  The thing is awesome.  It packs down a little bigger than my stand-up paddleboard and fits nicely in the aft cabin on the boat for passage.  Once we anchor, we break it out, put the floorboards in, air it up – and GO!!

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Like Daffy Duck and the Abominable Snowman …

Bunny

“I will love him and pet him and call him George.”  And, for those of you with too much time on your hands – video HERE.

all summer long, Annie loved on the dinghy, rubbed on it, cleaned on it, fixed it up and made it her own.

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We even got an outboard for her right before the November trip.

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Vrooom!

After some research and debate, we decided to go with a 3.5 horsepower, water-cooled Tohatsu.  It weighs about 45 pounds and we lift it(by hand) from the dinghy up to a mounting board on the stern rail.

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Outboards are not cheap and if dropped in the water, I’m sure they sink right to the bottom, either irretrievably so or, even if retrievable, they are likely forever ruined in the process regardless.  So, you can just imagine our first nervous, wobbly-kneed hand-off from Phillip up at the stern, to me down bobbing in the dinghy.  It was hairy and there were a lot of “You got it?”   “You got it?”  “You sure you got it?” ‘s that were exchanged back and forth – but thankfully we got her down safely and mounted firmly on the transom of the dinghy.  I don’t think I’ve ever gripped anything so hard in my life.  My knuckles were white and my fingers were gnarled tight around her.  I was NOT going to be the one who dropped the engine.  But, it’s now a fairly routine exchange and we manage it fairly easily, without all the nerves and tension.  Still a death grip, though.  The death grip is key.

With the sun just rising on our first morning of the trip, and our boat now securely anchored, Phillip hopped in the dinghy and fired her up for a morning ride.

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We cruised on over to Fort McRae first and poked around.  The fort is no longer standing, but there are some old barricade walls and tunnels to explore, and it does feel pretty empowering to stand up at the peak and look out onto the Gulf knowing this was one of three spots where massive barricades were erected so many years ago to protect Pensacola’s shores.

Fort McRae

We then dinghy-ed back across the chilly waters to Sand Island to go exploring.

Sand Island

It really is gorgeous there.  Pristine and untouched.  We frolicked along without a care in the world.  Like a goofy couple in a Kay Jeweler’s commercial.  Hands clasped blissfully together, we skipped back to the dinghy and patted her gently as we nestled in.  We both smiled warmly at the outboard and commented on how shiny and pretty she was and how well she was running that morning.  How well she was running.  She WAS running.  Had been anyway.  Phillip pulled the cord, had to have been 20 or 30 times, but she would not start.  Refused to start, or even to try.  That bitch!  She had turned on us.

We sat in the dinghy looking out across the water at our boat, and I know what you’re probably all thinking.  Stop your whining Nancy and row!  Sure, we could row.  Assuming the wind was light enough.  But, we still had nine days to go on our trip and plenty of little inlets and places we wanted to explore — in our dinghy — and we bought an outboard for a reason.  This was America dammit and we’d spent our hard-earned U.S. dollars on that foreign motor.  I wasn’t having it.  I shoved Phillip aside.  Let me at her!

November 20, 2013 – Day One: The Rode Out West

With Big Mom tended to and Alabama in our rear-view, Phillip and I set to planning our Thanksgiving voyage.  Due to the rush trip to North Alabama for the funeral and the lost time from work, we both needed to put in a few days at the office to make up for it before we took off again, so we settled on a departure date of Wednesday, November 20th, which would still leave us 10 whole days at sea.  Now, while a trip east to Carrabelle, Apalachicola and the like was still do-able, it would be a stretch as Carrabelle, alone, is a two-day passage, assuming good weather, and I can tell you what we did not have that week was good weather.  A front was set to pass through, leaving us with 25-30 mph winds and a predicted 6-9 foot sea-state.  Not something you want to jaunt out in just for fun.  There were plenty of anchorages we had heard about on the western route, so we decided to stay protected along the ICW inshore and head west in search of (what else?) — women, whiskey and gold!

Here is an overview of our planned voyage:

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We planned to head over to Fort McRae first for a couple of days on the hook, then ease in to Pirate’s Cove to dock up and hang out with the local riff raff for a day or two.  From there, we would jump over to Ingram’s Bayou (a place many of our sailing buddies kept telling us was one of the most beautiful, pristine anchorages over that way) to drop anchor for a couple of quiet nights, before we made our way over to The Wharf in Orange Beach where we had reserved a slip for Thanksgiving.   Phillip’s clan was also planning to rent a condo there for the holiday and we – as true cruisers tend to do – were planning to make full use of their facilities!  There is nothing like a hot shower and a washer and dryer after seven days at sea!

All told, our trek out west was going to be about an 8-9 day trip and we had planned one last anchorage on the way back (likely Red Fish Point – just near Fort McRae) for one last night of solitude before heading back to the real world.

So, we set off on a brisk sunny Wednesday afternoon (Nov. 20th) and headed to our first stop — Fort McRae:

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Now, we’ve been to Red Fish Point many times, so the passage across Pensacola Bay and through the little inlet by Sand Island was all too familiar territory.  No sweat.  We could make that sail with our eyes closed (assuming, of course, no other boats, bouys, or a shore).  Stevie Wonder style!

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Yeah baby!

But, we had never made the “uey” around the corner and into the inlet between Sand Island and Fort McRae.

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And I’ll have you know I had to Google the word “uey” for the proper spelling.  Urban Dictionary says: 

  

To take a U-Turn 
   I guess this is a New England thing.
   Cab driver : “I’ll just bang(make a/take) a uey on the next stoplight”
Although I’m not sure that’s just a “New England” thing.  I think ‘to bang is to make’ rings true just about anywhere.  
We had a phenomenal sail over.  But, I will say, we had not been out on the boat in weeks and I think just about any conditions would have been ‘phenomenal’ to us as we were just thrilled to finally have water moving across the hull.  Although many may disagree, runny noses and chilly fingers just aren’t enough to make any sail UN-phenomenal in our book.  But, apparently we were a little rusty.  I’d love to say we executed the ‘uey’ around Sand Island perfectly and eased right on up into our anchorage by Fort McRae.  But that’s just not how it happened.  As we were making (banging I guess the New Englanders would say) the bend, the boat lurched forward and let out a slight groan.  With my hands on the bimini bar, I could feel the soft, thud of the ground we hit below.  And let me just say for the record – although I’m a little reluctant to admit it, we have done it a time or two now (run aground) – but it’s never a feeling you get comfortable with.  It’s a sickening, discomforting movement of the boat and instantly identifiable as contact with the treacherous bottom below.  Thankfully, for us, it was a soft, sandy bottom and Phillip had the sharp skipper skills to back us out, “bang out” a bigger loop and get us into Fort McRae with our keel in tact.
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Now, I’ve heard some people refer to this anchorage as “party alley” because it’s usually chock full of sailboats, power boats, trollers and the like.  Hence the “party.”  But, we were hoping that on Thanksgiving it would be pretty sparse so we would have plenty of room to spread out.  Sadly, that wasn’t the case.  There were three other boats in there, a marker for some sunken hazard, a bouy and a tight shoreline that we had to deal with.  Enter the infamous Swing Radius.  Now, most of you are smart enough to make a pretty good guess as to what that is, but humor me for just a moment for the newbies.

Imagine your anchor as the center of the circle.  The radius, then, is the distance from your anchor to the stern of your boat:

Swing radius

Using the radius, you can then plot out a hypothetical ‘circle’ your boat could occupy depending on which way the wind or tide pushes it.  Now, with several “obstacles” around us – three other boats, an immovable marker for the sunken hazard, a bouy, and a nearby shore with outstretched shoal, we had to be sure we dropped enough anchor chain (known as “rode”) to hold our boat secure while not creating a swing radius so large it would allow us to strike the surrounding obstacles.  We typically like a 7:1 ratio.  Meaning, if we were in 7 feet of water, with 4 foot freeboard (distance from the water line to the deck), that’s 11 feet total depth, so 77 feet of rode.

Now, while getting the anchor set right is important, making sure we had a proper cocktail at sunset easily trumps it.  So, with the tight parameters, we dropped about 55 feet of anchor chain (an approximate 5:1 ratio with our ten feet of total depth) and set to our evening ritual.  A book and cocktail at sunset.  Could there be anything better?

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But then another boat pulled up nice and tight near us and set us both on edge.  We started looking around, running and re-running our calculation of the swing radius and speculating, once again, as to the approximate distance to the shore.

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With both of us being born fierce litigators and each a few drinks in and, thus, a little more ballsy to boot, Phillip and I embarked on an exhaustive debate about the swing radius.  I made a rough calculation and explained to Phillip my educated guess as to the radius, to which he naturally responded:

Answer

With no one else on the boat with us, a riveting discussion ensued, in which I had to drop some serious geometry knowledge on Phillip that, if translated to a demonstrative aid, would look something like this:

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Length of Boat +  [ (Rode )– (Depth + Freeboard )2 ]1/2

Simple, right?  I thought so.  Or at least I was sure, in my eloquent, unslurred, precise and persuasive frame of mind, that it was.  And, I told Phillip as much.  To which he responded:

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Fine by me!  I had made my peace with it.  I offered my best pitch – full of reason and geometry and gin – and my plight had fallen on deaf ears (or ogling eyes – although I consider them to be synonymous).  I set about to “banging out” another drink or three and resting my weary mind while Phillip got up about every hour to try and make out the markers and shoreline in the dark of night as the wind began to howl over the boat.  I kept a shoulder turned to him, pretending to be sleeping soundly (lah-tee-dah) as he was checking GPS coordinates on his phone, but I was wide awake and just as worried as he.  The sounds and motions of the boat from below were incredibly deceiving.  What could just as easily have been the wind and a smooth shift of the boat in the water sounded, in the v-berth, like the keel wedging into sand and the boat preparing to tip over.  Neither of our weary minds were resting.  Phillip made one last trek topside, and I heard him walk up toward the bow, my eyes following the sound of his footsteps in the dark.  Then I heard them pound quick on the deck above as he scurried back to the hatch and shouted down to me:

“Annie, I need you up here now.  We’re moving.”