December 24, 2013 – Let Them Know It’s Christmas Time

So, with five solid coats on the boat and only “FIVE COATS TO GO!!” we headed West to N’awlins for Christmas and, as it always seems to happen with us, everywhere we went, a story was sure to follow.  Let me share a few.  On Christmas Eve night, we were planning to head to Jackson Square where we heard they were caroling by candlelight.  All attendees are provided with sheet music and candles (a brave proposition among a bunch of rowdy, festive cajuns) and everyone joins together in holiday chorus.

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Such was the plan.  Before we made it there, though, we decided to stop in one of our favorite watering holes – Sobou (short for ‘south of Bourbon’).  It is the bar in the new W hotel that opened in the Quarter.  We’ve been there several times and always loved the atmosphere at the bar and the quality cocktails, and this night certainly fell true to that mark.  I had seen the same bartender there several years in a row, this lively, gregarious woman, usually with a flower stuck in her hair, who really lights up the scene, often busting out in song and dance (with incredible opera-house worthy vocals to boot) and always — always — making fine cocktails while entertaining the ever-shuffling crowd that passes through.

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(Thanks to Food & Wine, who we were pleased to find on our return had done a write-up of Sobou in their January, 2014 issue,  I now know her as Abigail Gullo, creator of the rye-and-brandy Sazerac they do there which Phillip goes all Mad Men over).

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But on this night, I heard our gregarious bar wench well before I saw her.  As we sauntered in the front door, her rich, buttery baritone voice poured out from the back at the bar, drawing us in with a warm “It’s Christmas time … ”  I pushed forward wanting to get the best seat at the bar to see whatever Christmas production she was putting on unfold.  As I settled into a seat, she gingerly put a napkin before me on the bar, and gave me a quick wink as she continued, “there’s no need to feel afraid.”  The song was somewhat familiar, like I knew I was going to recall it once she got the chorus, but I couldn’t quite place it yet.  The rest of patrons at the bar were watching her wide-eyed, in silence, when she broke character for just a moment to say “And then Boy George breaks in,” just before she threw her voice into a sweet soprano and cooed, “In our world of plenty … ”  And then it started to come back to me.  It was that relief song all those artists got together back in the 80’s and did – for the kids in Africa or something.  It had a very “We Are The World” feeling to it.

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You probably know it:  Do They Know It’s Christmas.

I was just catching on.  Yeah, yeah, I know this.  I was nodding and smiling along with her, sparks were flying now.   “And then George Michaels goes,” she said,

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and she jumped into a full male falsetto, “But say a prayer to pray for the other ones.”  The patrons at the bar were starting to nod too and sway their bodies to the invisible beat.  “And then,” as she hunched down low with a sly smile, “my favorite.  Bono,”

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and she jumped up an octave, gave her voice a wicked raspy quality and belted into her muddler-slash-microphone: Well tonight thank God it’s them, instead of you!”  The whole bar sang the entire song with her and by the end, she would point to the right side of the bar and they would sing “Feed the Wo-orld,” and then she’d point to the left and they’d respond with a rousing, “Let them know it’s Christmas time.”    Now the right: “Feed the Wo-orld.”    And the left: “Let them know it’s Christmas time!”

And, we hadn’t even had a drop to drink yet, but there we were, having an absolute ball, singing at the top of our terrible lungs without a care in the world.

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She put us right in the holiday mood.  And, got us nice and thirsty too.  We all ordered one of the fun, festive drinks they were featuring and watched them set to work, placing glasses before us and spritzing them with absinthe or citrus, wiping the rim of the glasses with cucumber or lemon, and just taking their time making real, quality cocktails.  Phillip ordered a rum old-fashioned, with cinnamon and sugar, and we had the pleasure of watching our bartender hack off a piece of ice from a 2 ft x 2 ft block they kept at the bar and, seriously, with the chuck of ice in a napkin in one hand, and a mini-hatchet in the other, he chiseled out a custom-crafted ice-ball (about the size of a raquetball) that fit perfectly in Phillip’s glass.  There is a reason we always go back to Sobou.

Nice and liquored up, and our own pipes all warmed-up and ready for an encore, we headed to Jackson Square for the caroling.  But sadly, even when we’re not sailing, it seems we live and die by the weather, and it certainly wasn’t cooperating that night.  It was drizzly and wet, with black, murky puddles everywhere, and all of the rowdy cajuns were holed up in bars and other questionable joints looking out at us with light scowls as we passed by.  The streets were empty.  The small herd that had seemed to collect around Jackson Square for the caroling looked like a pack of wet cats.

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Including us.  But that didn’t stop us.  Nice and buzzed and full of the holiday Sobou spirit(s), we picked up some soggy Christmas song sheets off the ground and started singing right there on the corner at Jackson Square.

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People actually started to huddle around and ask us where they were passing out the song sheets and candles.  To which we would respond by picking up soggy sheets from the ground and handing them to them while pretending we were too wrapped up in song to respond with an actual answer.  The place was dead, but we were belting it out to the absent masses.  We even did a wicked rendition of Do They Know Its Christmas again to make sure everyone was aware.  I got to play the part of George Michaels, although I have to admit, I think it came across less like the beloved Wake Me Up! 80’s star we all know and love,

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and more like the adolescent incestite from Arrested Development:

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Who knew Olan Mills had a shipping container backdrop?  Suh-weet!

But, we sang anyway.  Full of festive energy and liquid courage we decided, “Screw the weather!”  We were going to (sing it with me) let them know it’s Christmas time, damnit!

November 22, 2013 – Day Three: The Local Riff Raff

After some serious Annie muscle, what I believe to be a minor rotator cuff injury, and — Phillip’s infinitely better idea — a little patience (turns out we had flooded it), the outboard finally cranked.  It seems even when you buy a brand new one, outboards are just finicky critters that you have to baby about.  Go figure.  But, chilled to the bone, we puttered on back to our boat and hunkered down with Mr. Heater.

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Aside from the oven, engine and long johns, it is the only heat source on the boat and this little guy cranks out some serious heat.  As chilly as it got during that trip, I never found myself cold on the boat with this little heat machine running.  We cooked up a feast (lamb chops, sauteed mushrooms and kale salad), set a kerosene-lit table for two and curled up for another night at Fort McRae.

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The next day, we pulled anchor around noon and headed on over to Pirate’s Cove, which was about a 3-hour jaunt west:

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We were able to sail for a couple of hours before we made it to the tighter parts of the ICW that require the motor and actually passed some friends on the way who were out kiting at Johnson’s Beach.

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We made it to Pirate’s Cove around four-ish, secured the boat and settled in at the dock.

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Instead of a cozy night in, we decided to get out and throw back a few with the locals at the Cove.  Now, anytime we pull into an old salty harbor, we always expect the local riff raff to provide some mild form of amusement, but, what we got at the Cove was — aside from that random midget burlesque show we caught back in the spring — one of the most entertaining and bewildering nights of our lives.  I swear to you – every bit of this is true.  And, thanks to the Pirate’s Cove live webcam (I’m serious: www.piratescoveriffraff.com) and my phone – it was also documented in vivid detail by yours truly for your viewing pleasure.  Enjoy:

We walked in around 6:30, I guess, looking for a drink and an outlet.  The place was littered with a few run-down looking regulars.  Hell, we probably looked like a couple of run-down regulars.  Without saying a word to anyone, we started roaming the perimeter for a usable outlet so we could recharge our laptop and phones.  Living on the boat, we had no qualms plugging in anywhere.  Well, I say we, but Phillip is actually worse.  I threw a shy smile to the bartender as I mozied around each wall, subtlely, or so I thought, looking for two available prong holes, while Phillip unabashedly started shimmying behind the soda machine and shaking the cords that ran from the back of the machine and the coffee pot, shouting loudly enough for anyone to hear, “Which one is this?,” as he shook it violently.   “Trace it back.  If it’s the coffee pot, unplug it.”  I looked around suspiciously, thinking the electricity Nazis would surely come and kick us out, but Phillip, who was half bent over the soda machine by now, one leg kicked up in the air for balance, said “They don’t give a shit, unplug it.”  So I did.

With the computer juicing up, probably coincidentally so I could memorialize this tale the next morning, we finally made our way to the bar.  And, as it always seems to turn out, Phillip was right.  They didn’t give a shit at all.  They could have cared less whether we walked the perimeter five times, spat on the doorstep, barked and walked away.  It was unlikely anything we did could interfere with their “atmosphere.”

We were at Pirates Cove, which I believe is technically in Josephine, Alabama, but by reading the haling ports on most of the dilapidated old boats in the slips there, I took it for a “place” all its own. The building itself was basically a pile of driftwood and sheet metal fastened together in some manner with rusty nails and caulk.  I was actually surprised they had electricity at all.

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The floorboards leading in and out of the main door were worn down at least an inch by foot traffic alone.  Well, let me take that back, mammal traffic.  They were at least four dogs roaming around at all times, one of whom was equal in weight and stature to a small pony with black, wart-like growths the size of baseballs formed at each of his elbows from years of laying on wooden floors.  His name was Tiki, but the bartender repeatedly referred to him (yes, him) as a “needy bitch.”

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Rick, the bartender, looked like the lead singer of the Grateful Dead—that Jerry character that I believe is since long gone.  He kept pushing sweaty, wavy hair back from his face and stroking his white bushy beard.  He wore a purplish luau-like shirt that buttoned down, although I don’t think it would have reached around the massive beach ball of a belly that protruded from his mid-section.  It seemed to function more as a wearable handkerchief than anything as he would occasionally pull the tail end of it up to his face and blow his nose in it without ever missing a beat.   But, for a bartender, he was exceptionally well-spoken and delightfully entertaining.  Engaging each of us at the bar only when provoked and even then, only ever so lightly, with an interesting tale or observation.  He was, by far, the best “soft-sell” barkeep I’ve ever encountered.  He had greeted us with an appropriate “Hey guys,” when we walked in but had left us entirely alone while we walked the walls of his establishment suspiciously and fiddled with his drinking equipment, but it was as if he sensed it when we started to turn his way for a drink.  His salutation then changed to “What’ll it be?”

You gotta love the live webcam.  Thanks to the wonders of modern technology, I was able to refresh it throughout the night on my phone and capture these shots:

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Here’s Rick – sporting his luau shirt-slash-hanky:

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We ordered two rum runners and settled in on two of the sturdiest damn bar stools I’ve ever had the privilege of resting my rump on.  They were made out of exactly four pieces of wood, two sides, a seat and a support bar/footrest about halfway down.  Each piece was at least eight inches thick and the whole stool weighed about forty pounds, a design I personally believe was intended to prevent stool tippage and usage of stools as weapons as we later witnessed a 300-pound patron who went solely by the name ‘Bama’ teeter on one repeatedly but not fall over.  Phillip and I wrestled two stools up to the bar just about the time Rick Garcia slid our drinks in front of us.  He then let us be to soak up the banter that was already brewing up nicely and acclimate to the atmosphere.

There were two regulars seated next to us who had clearly had a few but their slurred small-talk was still incredibly entertaining.  The man next to Phillip had a full, blonde seventies shag and liked to try to speak with an Australian accent (although they both attempted German and Brittish throughout the evening).  His comrade to my right was a clean-shaven, crew-cut gentleman who I believe actually was German, or at least had mastered the accent far better than his “I’m okay, you’re okay” compadre.

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As Phillip and I perused the pizza menu, I heard the Shag say “We need a really great toast, something like ‘To the Fuerher!’,” which appeared to please the German.  They shouted the sentiment with raised glasses and downed their shots with fervor while Rick Garcia was already making them another round.

Intrigued by the Hitler exchange, I had missed the stringy pizza man that had snuck up on Phillip.  He was holding a pizza box open as if it contained some illicit substances, looking back and forth quickly over each shoulder and speaking in low tones.  I leaned in to get a better listen.  “Now, you want to get the MaryAnn’s mess with extra artichoke and spinach.  Always extra spinach,” he said to Phillip in a whisper.  The kid was probably all of twenty-one, with a grungy toboggan hat slid to one side on his head, cheek bones jutting out from underneath it and bony prominences sticking up along the back of his neck like a rooster’s mane.  As quickly as he had appeared, he slipped a quick peak over his shoulder, closed the lid to the pizza box and slinked away.  I asked Phillip what had sparked that encounter and he responded with only a slow shake of the head and a long pull of his drink, but with a smile slowly stealing over his mouth.  We knew then and there we were definitely staying.  We were certainly not going to find any entertainment better or free-er than this.

The whole crew:

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We followed the junkie’s advice and ordered the MaryAnn’s mess – extra spinach – and another round of “rummers.”  The Shag and the German were debating again over some previous exchange they had had at that very same bar last week, the Shag apparently recalling it one way, and the German, another.  As the Shag was clearly making up details, “Yes, yes, I recall, I was wearing my flannel shirt and sipping a bourbon, when – yes, that’s it, I can see it clearly now, I’m having a flashback to … ”

“Your other personality obviously,” the German pitched in, “because you don’t wear flannel and you sure as hell don’t sip bourbon.”  That did me in.  I couldn’t then hide the fact that I had been watching them unapologetically like a movie.  Blissfully staring.  But, I couldn’t help it.  The German was sharp and witty and the Shag was a perfect stupefied surface for his comments to bounce off of.  But, unfortunately, as it happens, laughing at an old drunk’s joke at a bar is like feeding a dog at the table.

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You’ll never shake him then.  The Shag turned to me and widened his eyes, like a flower blooming before me.  “Oh, what do we have here?”  Oh boy, I thought.  Here we go.  But, he and the German both turned out to be incredibly smart and wildly entertaining.  It was the fiftieth anniversary of JFK’s assassination and they both recalled, with vivid detail, where they were and what they were doing when they got the news.  Although the Shag claimed it it must have been the memory of his other personality because he wasn’t actually that old.  Rick Garcia piped in with an entirely inappropriate but perfectly-timed joke about someone who, legend had it, asked Jackie-O upon her return, “So, aside from that, how was your trip to Dallas, Jackie?”  This quip garnered a roar of laughter from the bar-seated audience and was repeated, re-hashed and utterly used up by the time the night was over.  The Shag would come back from the bathroom saying it smelt of copper and cat urine, to which we would all respond with “So, other than that, how was your trip to the men’s room, Shag?”  The German griped about the piss-poor drink he had got on his last flight, and we would all respond with a “So other than that … ”

What we had failed to notice, however, during our bonding with the regulars was the bond that had been forming between the junkie with the pizza box and Bama, who had been stumbling in and out of the joint all night.  Bama and the Junkie had somehow found each other in that sparse, dusty bar and were now hunkered together at a sagging picnic table behind us, one arm draped over the other’s shoulder as they belted out “on the cover of the Rolling Stone, the Rolling Stone, the Rolling Stone … ”  Bama was a smooth baritone and the Junkie, a raspy alto, but they made a decent duet and us bar hounds raised our glasses and swayed a few times in honor of their harmony.  This was entertaining, at first, buy they repeated this verse every nine and a half minutes, approximately, throughout the night and by the fourth rendition we all began a collective eye-roll when they would strike up.

Two drinks in, our pizza finally came, a heaping, melting mozzarella-covered miracle and Phillip and I dove in, dipping whole slices in ranch, wiping swaths of grease from our face and washing it down with rum drinks that seemed to get stronger by the pour.  The Shag had hunkered down and was scribbling something on some receipt paper he had pulled from the register.

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I figured he had fallen prey to his intoxicants and was reaching that head-hang stage where one finds himself capable of only mono-syllables and drool.  But, mid-way through another “cover of the Rolling Stone” revival, he emerged with a snap, flipping his blond wig back mightily and shoving his receipt paper drawing before me.  “Ahhh .. a Lyden original,” Rick Garcia said, eyeing the piece.  The drawing was actually an incredible sketch of a woman’s face, exceptionally detailed and shadowed, particularly considering it was drawn with only a ball-point pen.

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Original, I thought.  Rick, ever the ‘reader,’ sensed my inquiry and responded, “He’s an artist.  Won something up in Fairhope for painting that … what was it Lyden?  The swan over a crack?”

“A creek, Rick.  It was a creek.”

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www.leslyden.com

The Shag, now known as Lyden, handed me a business card that boasted the incredible swan over the crack with his name and website on the back.  He was indeed an artist.

And a handsome one at that, pre-shag:

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I fumbled the card around a bit, trying not to utterly destroy it with the massive quantities of pizza grease that coated my every finger, while I watched Rick Garcia use his purple luau cloak to simultaneously wipe the grease from his own face and blow his nose single-handed.  “It serves many a-purpose,” Rick said completely unapologetically as he continued splashing together another concoction for Bama and the junkie at the other end of the bar.

While they were momentarily silent, enthralled by watching the mammoth Tiki eat a piece of cheese, the German engaged Rick in yet another riveting topic: employee theft.  “So, how did you stop them?”  He was asking about the apparently many-preceding bartenders who had managed to, night after night, sneak a few key dollar bills from the register, to which Rick Garcia responded by merely pointing up toward the corner of the bar to a camera.  “We filmed them,” he said.  “It’s amazing how accountable people get when they know they’re being videotaped.”  Phillip and I eyed the camera intently while Rick continued.  “We just put it on a live web cam so we could watch from afar, and we haven’t had a thieving ‘keep since.”

“So, we’re live right now?” Phillip asked.  “Well, live, in a sense,” Rick Garcia responded.  “It refreshes every two minutes.  Here, let me show you.”  He started fumbling around with his phone trying to look up the website, grumbling to himself that his “smart phone” was in fact “retarded.”  He looked up with a frown and told us, “It seems I don’t have enough lapband.”  Lapband?  Phillip and I shared a confused look.  “Lapband.  Band-lap.  What is it?”  Garcia asked.  “Bandwidth?”  Phillip and I said in unison.  “Yeah, that.  I’ve had the lapband too – didn’t seem to have enough of that either – but bandwidth, that’s it.”

Luckily, it turned out I did have enough “lapband” and I looked us up on the old riffraff webcam.  The first image that came up was of Phillip and I, eyebrows raised, watching the junkie/Bama band in yet another encore of “the Rolling Stones … ” an event that had occurred two minutes earlier, and so, by our calculation, was then set to occur again in approximately seven minutes and thirty-four seconds, give or take.   When we refreshed again, I was pointing vigorously at Rick Garcia, making, I’m sure, a refreshingly witty comeback to his Lapband mishap.

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We continued to refresh the webcam throughout the night, reliving each moment, exactly two minutes later, and enjoying immensely the greasy pizza, recurrent Stones revivals and the engaging banter of the Shag, the German and Garcia.

After three hours at the bar and four rummers in, Phillip and I found ourselves immersed totally in their “atmosphere.”  I watched intently as a new couple sauntered in, keeping their distance, initially, from our group.  The woman wrestled a massive barstool into place and nudged her partner when she first noticed the mammoth Tiki, a sight that was now normalcy for us.  The Bama/Junkie duet struck up again, and I watched the couple share the same look Phillip and I had shared only hours prior.  Oh, we are definitely staying.  I knew, in just a short amount of time, they would join us at the bar and, before long, feel we just as we do now – like part of the local riff raff.

November 9, 2013 – “When Are You Going to the Islands?”

Isn’t that what you’re all thinking?  At least that’s what I get asked three times a week.  (Yes, I’m talking to you Bleeke!)  Soon, people.  Soon.  Stick with me.  But, I’ll tell you, even when we do get there, it’s not going to be any more beautiful than this:

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And, when we cook up a meal in the galley off the coast of some remote island in the Keys or Bahamas, it’s still going to look like this:

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Adventure is relative and can be found anywhere.  Usually, it’s the act of getting there that’s the real “journey,” not the destination itself.

But, you want to see us on a passage.  I get it.  So do we, minus the transmission fluid catch this time.  Although I’m sure you want to see some equally entertaining minor disaster occur that we have to resolve in true MacGyver fashion with bubble gum, nail polish and sheep shears (all of which we keep on the boat for just such an occasion).

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I’ll see what I can come up with.

Trust me, we were ready to get back out there, too.  With the summer pretty much behind us and all of our major boat chores done, the rubber gloves finally came off,

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and we set down to plan our trip.  Which we, of course, had to do over wine and dinner – a whole roasted snapper, anyone?

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Between work, family and my obligatory appearances on the rodeo clown circuit, we had about two weeks to work with in November.  Yes, we do plan to go longer and further later, but that will have to come later.  All evidence to the contrary, we do have to work.  I can’t stress to you enough how expensive boats can be.  Now, let me remind you how far the actual Keys are:

To the Keys

I think even MacGyver’s scruffy eyebrows raised with that one.  It’s about a four-day passage offshore, if made straight.  That’s 96 hours of solid sailing, which means someone always at the wheel, even with auto-pilot, you still need to keep a lookout and stay close to the helm, particularly at night.  This means, for four days, you only get to sleep in one-to-two hour snatches.  It’s fun, don’t get me wrong.  There’s a certain sense of freedom, adventure and accomplishment when you finish a passage, but it is also a very tiring stint at sea, even in the best of conditions, exhausting and harrowing in the worst.  If we made the four-day passage straight to the Keys, we would need a day or two to rest and recover and that would leave us about one day to enjoy the Keys before we had to start meandering back, two or three, perhaps, if wanted to make another four-day epic passage back across the Gulf.  But that would put us on a tight schedule, and we learned the hard way during The Crossing that you can never be on a tight schedule when sailing.  You have to build in a cushion for the weather.  It’s just part of it.  We hated to push the Keys trip back, but it had to be done.  Trying to squeeze it into the tight travel window we had this winter was not going to allow us the time we wanted to truly enjoy the Keys.  Plus, there were plenty of places we wanted to cruise locally and enjoy.  We decided we would make the trip to the Keys in the spring (after skiing season – of course – that’s a must!) and stick around these parts in November.

Phillip and I decided to head East to Carrabelle.

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That’s about a two-day passage straight.  Forty-eight hours, assuming a good weather window.  If you recall, our boat spent some time over in Carrabelle when the transmission went out, and we really enjoyed poking around the sleepy little mariner towns around there, which feel like they’ve been preserved in time, when sea-faring sailors roamed the streets, rum bottle in hand.  We wanted to head back and spend a couple of days immersing ourselves with the old salts and eating some of the best fresh oysters I have ever let slither down my throat.

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We then wanted to take our time heading back inshore, protected along the Intracoastal Waterway (as much as we could … we would have to pop out into the Gulf for several stretches where our mast height (50 feet) won’t allow us under the bridges).  We pulled out the charts–and the snapper–and started plotting our passage.

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And, what meal is complete without fresh homemade bread and salad?  … None we know of.

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The plan was to hope for good weather, so we could head straight for Carrabelle, spend a night or two there boozing with the locals, then mozey our way back to Apalachicola for some local fare, another night or two to booze again and get our fill of fresh oysters.  Then, we thought we would check out Port St. Joe, a great littler marina there, Cape San Blas (lots of cool anchorages there, too), head back to Panama City in hopes of catching another sighting of our Lady Legs-a-Lot (you remember those heels!), then make the twenty-four passage offshore back to Pensacola.

November trip

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Even with a few extra days’ cushion for potential bad weather, this trip, even taken leisurely, would still easily fill two weeks.  We planned to leave November 15th and return on the 29th.  This was going to be a significant passage for the two of us – heading offshore for a four-day passage.  While I may have proven some creative gumption and gusto in surviving the dinghy debacle and transmission fiasco during The Crossing, this was going to be my first true offshore voyage as First Mate.  I started glossing over our old sailing books again, working expletives back into my everyday conversation, upping my rum tolerance and practicing my knot-tying skills on empty wine bottles.  Oh, and watching weekend-long MacGyver marathons.  That helps too.

A two-week passage in the blistering winter?  Done.  I was packing all my gear.

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Aside from the mullet, MacGyver ain’t got nothing on me!

October 4, 2013 – The Heat is Hot!

For those of you who don’t know.  “The heat” is the cops, the po-po, the 5-Oh.  In our case, the Pensacola Police Department.

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And, they were on us.  It all happened during our trip to the Big City.  That’s right.  Chatahoochee, FL.  Jeepers, what a town!  I’m kidding.  The real big city.  NYC.

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I had never been and, yes, I imitated the Pace Picante commercial repeatedly in the weeks before the trip and actually exclaimed “Jeepers!” several times while I was there—at least three times after we saw The Book of Mormon.

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That show was super nifty.   Check it out.  An incredibly entertaining and insanely accurate ‘poke’ at religion.  I highly recommend it.  I also recommend, if you find yourself in that bubbling metropolis of humanity, that you buy a greasy foodcart product – a hotdog, some empanadas or any kind of poultry on a stick (it doesn’t matter which, as I believe they all originate from the same non-mammal meat product), sit on a bench and just watch the people.  An equally entertaining and insanely accurate ‘poke’ at people.  Here are some highlights:

Bar hag roaming through Times Square:

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Wanda was right, this sharp shooter belt buckle really does make me look skinny.

 Jersey Shore trainer at Bryant Park.

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“Ummm-huh.  Just like that Becky.  Hold that position for me.”

 Band of brothers at the bar:

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Dude, I’m serious.  It goes from this hand to the other. 

The real Toy Story:

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“You’re right Spidey, Buzz does smell like plastic.”

Oh, we seemed to come across this excitable blonde – at the Bull:

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I mean, really?  It’s just a bronze bull.  And that “grab life by the horns thing” had totally been overdone.

We also found her at the top of 30 Rock (beautiful view!)

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The city, not the blonde (although Phillip took a real liking to her):

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Oh, but we did come across a real-life excitable blond at the airport:

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Please tell me you recognize her immediately (as Phillip did not).  No?  Let me give you a hint:

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The one and only – Hayden Panetiere.  Her and Beyonce’s long-lost cousin rocked that flick!  I totally accosted her at the airport.  Super celeb sighting in my book.  But, enough about that great big city — back to the boat.

So, we had been planning this trip to NYC for a couple of months and, as it just so happens, that damn Tropical Storm Karen was set to roll in just as we were set to leave.  Seriously.  This was the predicted path:

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The one weekend we had planned to travel, not by boat, and the jilted wench set her sights directly on our slip it seemed.  The storm really put a damper on our pre-travel excitement.  The night before we left, we spent the entire evening tying and re-routing extra lines (we even latched her to city property!), fastening extra chafe guards, taking down the dodger (to reduce wind surface) and strapping and re-strapping the sail covers, so they wouldn’t blow off.

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We used pieces of firehose some sailing buddies have given us as chafe guards for the dock lines:

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With the boat as secure as we could get her, we refreshed the storm tracker every five minutes during the flight and kept checking with folks back in Pensacola to see how the storm was progressing on the home-front.   Bottom-Job Brandon and our broker-friend Kevin had offered to go by the dock on occasion to check on the old Rest.  Initially, we were getting good reports.  Winds of 25-30 mph only and no storm surge yet.  But the storm was predicted to hit on Saturday night, October 5th, and it was only Wednesday.

That Friday afternoon, Phillip and I were making our way to the FlatIron building—a wine, a beer and two incredibly succulent Shake Shack burgers under our belt:

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When Phillip checked his phone and noticed two messages from the office and one from a neighbor back home.  Odd.  He decided he better see what was going on, so we parked it on a bench near the infamous building while he returned the calls.

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His neighbor told him a Pensacola police officer had stopped by looking for him, but he would not “disclose his business.”  Odd-er.  At the office, Phillip’s receptionist reported that a cop (presumably the same—a distant cousin to the Captain Mulrooney who accosted me at the Home Depot in Daphne I’m sure) had come by the firm, asking to speak with “Mr. Warren” but again declining to reveal why he had such a pressing need to speak with the Captain.  Thankfully Phillip’s receptionist is inquisitive and scrappy and wouldn’t let the cop leave without coughing up a calling card.   Phillip joked that it was a good thing he’d left town, because apparently the “heat was hot” in Pensacola!  They were on his six!

Back in NYC, Phillip punched in the detective’s number and spoke with a raspy, chain-smoking bloke, Sergeant So-and-So, who told him the detective was out of pocket at the moment, but that he and the Detective had gone to his house and office that day trying to talk to him about his boat.

About his boat. 

And that was “all he could disclose.”  Disclose!  I was so sick of hearing that word.  As if when a cop has something to say, it no longer becomes “tell” it magically transforms into the utterly important “disclose.”  Ooohhh.  But, we did learn it was “about the boat.”  A sickening thought when we had a tropical storm rolling in we were half-a-continent away.  I imagined the boat had come undone, knocked half the dock out and had ended up speared through the million dollar catamaran in the next slip over.  A sickening thought let me assure you.  Phillip thought they were calling about the lines we had tied to the city rails, thinking they were going to—or worse, they already had—untied them to preserve city property during the storm, which meant the boat would be free to rock and sway violently and crash into the seawall most likely, which was no better than my vision.  We wandered around the park in New York listlessly, toes nudged in the ground, staring sternly at Phillip’s phone and thinking the worst while we were waiting for Detective Whazzisname to call us back.  I cannot disclose to you how worried we were.

September 11, 2013 – The Money Shot!

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That’s a great shot, but that’s not it.  This shot – the money shot – is stellar.  Not only does it capture Phillip doing something totally awesome (but when does he not do things that are totally awesome?) but he did it right in the front of the boat, the glistening Plaintiff’s Rest.  This shot is supreme.  Trust me – but we’ll get there.  First thing’s first.

First we had to get that beautiful boat out there on the hook as often as we could between boat chores.  Let me give you some highlights of our summer anchorages (and I would imagine this song is the right backdrop for this rockin’ photo montage):

Just about every Friday at 5:00 p.m. (okay, who am I kidding – NOON!) we tossed the lines and headed out for the weekend.  We often went west to Red Fish Point where we stayed for our first anchorage.

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We enjoyed some exquisite sunset sails over:

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And you know what happens when we start sailing?  For those of you who said “clothes come off!” you would be right!  But, we also drink!  We are sailors you know!  Every time the sun would start to dip, we would whip up one of our famous “Oh Shiiiit” cocktails or pour a fine glass of wine.

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Nope, that’s not the money shot either.  Not yet.  Stick with me …

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We would often head east too, over to the Pensacola Beach area to anchor out behind Paradise Inn or Big Sabine:

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And we did some serious sailing along the way – I’m talking wing-on-wing!  That’s where the Jenny and the main are on opposite sides of the boat – one pulled out to starboard and one to port.  Looks like this:

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It is a technique used to maximize the sail surface in light wind to allow us to sail downwind when the wind is directly on our stern.  Here is our Jenny and main, wing-on-wing:

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And … we sailed her like that under the Bob Sykes bridge!  *gasp*

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But the scariest part was, Phillip let me steer her like that!

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A look of total concentration.  I was in the zone!

Thankfully, we made it under, boat in tact, bridge in rearview and a big smile on my face.

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Whew!!  

We had some buddies sail along with us on occasion to get some great shots of us sailing:

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Awesome shot, too, I must agree – but that’s still not it.  Almost!

We cooked up some mean meals on the boat:

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Sirloin steaks with chimmichurri?  Yes, please!  But, the wind often blew so hard it would blow out the flame on our grill.  Have wind will NOT cook!  So, guess whose job it was to hold up a cover while the meat cooked.

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That’s right – you guessed it – the First Mate’s!

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But it was totally worth it.  I mean … look at that feast!  We really don’t eat well on the boat, I’m telling you.  Not well at all!

We blew up my new inflatable SUP!

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That thing was a beast to blow up.  Definitely good for the “gun show!”  We had a great time paddling around, though, once she was inflated:

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Then we deflated her and rolled her right back up.

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Great for storing on the boat, not so good for the back.  It is a wee bit of a chore but again – totally worth it – because we always finish our chores up with a drink (or four)!

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Nope, that is STILL not the money shot – although he is a sexy beast!  Don’t you just hate it!

We met up with some buddies and shared a case of PBR:

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Then they passed out!

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And their little dog too!  As did we!  Day-drinking is hard.

Our “Sail Groupies” (Phillip’s folks) often came out to hang out with us on the hook:

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They eat a lot!  But we don’t mind.  We feed them so they’ll take us out wakeboarding:

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And, they helped us get it.  Yes, IT.  The Money Shot.  Phillip’s dad pulled him right around in front of our boat and Phillip threw up a “hang ten” sign so I could snap this sizzling number.  I give you – The Money Shot:

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Oh yeeeaaahhh!  That is money.  Looks like the opening trailer for a bad-ass movie to me.  I believe this is the appropriate accompaniment: Big Pimpin’

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Life on the hook is hard.

August 10, 2013 – All Work and (some) Play – Poolside!

Boat projects were definitely abundant, now that we had the bottom job done on the boat and she was home, tucked safely away in a cozy slip at Palafox Pier:

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We found a great slip at the very end, protected by a sea wall on one side with a floating finger dock on the other, and it’s just a short jump out into the Bay:

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While tossing the lines and jumping out in the bay is definitely always a better alternative, we had a growing list of things we needed to do to the boat to ready her for some real cruising this winter.   We started it the day of the Survey/Sea Trial many moons ago and it always seemed to be growing.

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Full list HERE.

I could go into laborious detail (trust me, the projects were plentiful – I told you, owning a boat is a lot of work!) but let’s get a condensed version, shall we?  Over the course of the summer, amidst anchorages, sunset sails and other fun outings, Phillip and I did the following to the boat:

Changed out the batteries:

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If you recall, the batteries (which were already about 3-4 years old) ran completely down when the boat was unplugged in Carabelle.  As our buddy Kevin had warned us and he ended up being right (hate when that happens!), the complete run-down did have a devastating effect on the batteries.  They were never able to fully recover and truly hold a charge after that, so we had to slap four new ones in.  Not cheap!  But, thankfully, in exchange for exactly 3.5 beers, Bottom-Job Brandon helped us get them in and wired up.

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We also cleaned up the wiring in the electronics panel and put in a new bus bar to reduce the number of connections on each terminal:

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We fixed the leak at the base of the mast by injecting silicone in/around the bolt heads and re-taping the boot cover:

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I got a little crafty again with some inexpensive fabrics from a place that rhymes with Schmal-Mart and made a cover for the power cord and fenders:

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Now you see that hideous yellow cord …

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Now you don’t …   Cord-WOW!  

That thing was a beast to wrestle though.  I tangled with that 50-foot anaconda for three days:

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The fender covers were much easier:

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(And, yes, this was all crafted with my trusty hot glue gun and stapler.  I love my Swingline!)

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“Haa … have you seen my stapler?”

To up the “bling” factor, we polished all of the metal through-out:

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And, last but not least, we replaced some gaskets in the coolant system on the engine:

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Yes, some days on the boat look like this.  It’s not all rainbows and sunshine.  And, it’s not spacious either. To get this job done, I had to cram down into the engine room on the boat.  A nice series of me crawling out of this dirty, grimy hole (through a tiny opening in the aft-berth) will help you truly appreciate the tightness of these quarters:

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Where’s Annie?

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There she is!  Now c’mon out Annie!

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Uggh ….  Grunt … 

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I now know why they call it aft-berth!  That’s about what it felt like – trust me.

But, thankfully, every time we spent a hot sweaty afternoon doing chores on the boat, we always ended it with a dip in the pool by our slip.

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We can even see the top of our mast from the pool:

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That way, we can sip pinot gris pool-side comfortably knowing she’s at least still up-right and floating.  And, speaking of, I have to mention our Cup-WOW wine glasses that also sit up-right and float in the pool.

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I mean, could there be a better invention?  Wooowwww!!

And, the best part is, letting the glass float around in the pool helps warm up too-chilly white wines because the water is pretty warm.  Not for that reason.  I never do that in pools!  I’m always afraid they’re going to have that secret blue dye that will show up and I’ll be feverishly swishing a cloud of blue water toward the old guy next to me with the rubber duckie floatie pointing at him with a face of total disgust.  I never pee in pools!  (At least not without conducting a little squirt dye test first!).

So, with our boat chores done (for the moment at least), our mast upright and our wine perfectly warmed, we enjoyed many-a-lazy afternoon by the pool, which usually progresses in this manner:

Read …

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Relax …

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ZZZZZZZ …….

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Working on boats is hard!

June 28, 2013 – Life on the Hook

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Yes, that’s what it looks like.  Life on the hook.  Well, on anchor, that is.  The technical definition is “living on a boat and anchored some place not attached to firm land or bottom.” (http://manateefritters.com/2012/07/13/going-to-live-on-the-hook/).  Gorgeous, ain’t it?  I know now how great it can be, but, I have to tell you – this whole time – I did not.  I didn’t know how mind-blowingly blissful the sailing lifestyle could be.  It’s like when the doctor asks you what news you want to hear first: the good or the bad?  You always say the bad.  Get it over with right?  Right.  I think that’s exactly what I did.

For this entire Gulf Crossing, transmission busting, Dasani-bottle fluid catching, mast-climbing, greasy, sweaty, exhausting ride we’ve been on, I had yet to see the real reward, the true benefit of the sailing lifestyle: LIFE ON THE HOOK.  Realize, I had yet to even know what it feels like to drop the anchor (not once) and have the boat stop in the middle of the water.  Just STOP.  No worrying about depth, or the wind or transmission fluid.  No hoisting sails or pulling in lines.  No checking the engine, refilling the coolant, watching the oil temp, watching the horizon for wayward ships, buoys or crab traps.  Once we dropped the anchor, the boat … just … stopped.  And she was safe, and secure, and poised right in the middle of a beautiful cove about 100 feet from the shore.  At first, I didn’t know what to do with myself.  Without any “work” to be done, I was a little lost.  You mean, I can just sit back and have a drink and enjoy the sunset?  Phillip said, “You can do whatever your little heart desires.”  

Ahhhh … life on the hook.  Let me give you a little taste.  Here’s where we went:

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It was about a 3-hour sail (that, thankfully, ended much better than Gilligan’s tour).  Pensacola Bay is huge and catches a lot of fetch.  It’s a great sailing bay and seems there’s always enough wind to do something with.  We headed over to Red Fish Point, near Fort McRee (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fort_McRee).  It is a barrier island covered with sugary, white sand and a federal park to preserve the remnants of the civil war area fort that remains.  The park is accessible primarily only by boat and appears to be lost in time, preserved and serene, like it’s a thousand miles from anywhere.    We had a beautiful sail over.

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We were just thrilled to have the boat back in the water, the lines tossed and the two of us headed out for anchorage.

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As I sit here today, I really can’t think of a better feeling.  Oh, wait, sun on our skin!

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I told you clothes come off when we sail.  And, we were sailing!  It felt so incredible.  It’s like the stress and toil of the shore you’re leaving behind just seems to stay there.  It doesn’t come out there on the boat with you.  The most important thing is the wind.  That’s the only thing you’re concerned about.  Sailing is incredibly freeing.

The minute we dropped anchor and I had the option to “do whatever my little heart desired,” I dove right in the water, first thing.

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I know.  Looks kind of like a dolphin, but I assure you: ‘Tis me!

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My little heart was soaking this “life on the hook” gig up.  Loving every minute of it.  It was quite a haul, but we swam all the way to shore.  The sand was a brilliant white that felt cool and smooth under our feet.

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And, it made sort of a crunching, squeaking sound when we walked on it.   

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Fun little fact for you:

Did You Know?

The stunning sugar white beaches of Gulf Islands National Seashore are composed of fine quartz eroded from granite in the Appalachian Mountains. The sand is carried seaward by rivers and creeks and deposited by currents along the shore.

I mean … was there life before Google?  (I’ll credit my brilliant friend Meagan for that revelation!)

We spent the afternoon swimming to/from shore (clothes on), then dried off and poured some wine to sip on while we watched the sunset.

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As usual, she did not fail to impress.  It was absolutely gorgeous.

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But, after all the swimming, we were ready for dinner.  We set up the grill for the first time, which was a bit of an event for us.  It hooks on the stern rail and connects to the propane supply on the boat.

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Phillip hooked her up like a champ and threw some chicken on the grill.  I sauteed some spinach and baked a fresh loaf of bread down below and – voila! – we had ourselves a right and proper feast!

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I know, right there in the cockpit, a four star dinner?  I was amazed.  This anchorage stuff was totally tolerable.  We did have one mini fiasco, though (as is always the case with us) when we were cleaning up for dinner.  There is certainly no garbage disposal on the boat, so you have to be careful not to let any food particles go down the sink drain.  You either have to put a strainer in the drain or scrape the dishes over the side of the boat before washing.  We chose the latter.  Phillip stacked the plates and everything in the pot we used to cook the spinach and went topside to start scraping.  I heard him fidgeting and struggling with something and he finally stuck his head down and said “It’s stuck.”  Stuck??  What’s stuck?  “The plate,” he said.  “In the pan.  I can’t get it out.”  He brought it down to the galley and I had to laugh.  It truly was stuck.

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One of the dinner plates had slid down nice and snug in the base of the pan and, with a little soapy water underneath it, it was suctioned in there like a leech in the wrong place.

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Don’t worry, I “stood by” Phillip and tried to help.  I got that pot on the stove and tried to extract the plate with a screw driver and a hammer, using some real technical surgical skills I picked up in Nam.

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Phillip even gave it a go, but that thing wasn’t budging.

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We had wedged a knife in, but even that wasn’t working.

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So, we decide to heat things up.  We put that baby on the burner and lit her up, hoping the steam from the water below would free the plate.  She started bubbling up, and popping and sputtering.  I thought the plate was going to explode.  I was skeered.

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With one final pop and no free plate, Phillip decided it was time the plate made a sacrifice.  He went topside with the screwdriver and hammer and I was sure he was planning to demolish it.  I heard some banging and a rousing “Eff you plate!” and he came down with an empty pot and plate shards.  I kept a piece to go along with the bolt head that sheared off during the Crossing, costing us the dinghy.  I’m going to make a wicked shadow box someday.

With the dinner fiasco finally resolved, we poured some more wine (yes, more) and watched the moon rise and the stars come out.  Again, it was perfection.

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But, it certainly paled in comparison to the sunrise the next morning.  It was my first on anchor and it was magnificent.  I think I shed a tear or two, it was so beautiful.  Okay, I didn’t, but I certainly took a lot of pictures!  This is only 4 of the 59 I snapped that morning so know that I culled it down for you:

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We spent the day swimming, reading, napping, eating, drinking, swimming some more, napping some more and enjoying every minute of the day.  Life on the hook makes you truly appreciate every moment.  We whipped together another gourmet dinner that night.  Our go-to shrimp feta pasta (recipe here: http://havewindwilltravel.com/2013/09/23/may-25-2013-no-comment-the-crossing-finale-not-very-pc/), paired with some crisp rosé and enjoyed the sunset and dinner in the cockpit.

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Sunset turned into moonrise and

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like magic, I was “hooked.”  This mate was ready to anchor anywhere!  We were right here at “home,” just outside of Pensacola Bay, but, I swear, we could have been anywhere, the Keys, the Islands, half-way around the world.  This boat was ready to take us there.  It was that night, we started planning our grand adventure.

May 28, 2013 – Happy Haul-Out!

So, in the early morning hours of May 28, 2013 (kind of a BIG day for me: http://havewindwilltravel.com/2013/08/29/may-23-2013-the-crossing-finale-oysters-and-beer/), I’d like to say I woke up, went down to the boat and spent all morning with her, steaming up of coffee in one hand, oily rub rag in the other, like a true old salt, feeling at one with the boat, the bay and the bitter-sweet ways of a life at sea.   Ahhhh ….. 

Old salt

http://elmuertoquehabla.blogspot.com/2011/06/el-viejo-y-el-mar.html

Minus the beard, of course.

But that’s not what happened.  We had been at sea for five days, which means?  You guessed it.  More time away from work.  I’ve already told you how expensive boats are.  We had to get back to the daily grind.  So, I went to work.  At an office, with unflattering florescent lighting and stale coffee and copiers …

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You’re right Javier.  You do make the best copies!

Boy was that a wake-up call.  After the best sail or our lives, work felt like a slap in the face with a cold, dead fish.  Smack!   But, I mustered through while Phillip and his Dad and the infamous Mitch (he really is a good friend) took the boat to the Pensacola Shipyard so she could be hauled out to have her bottom work done.

Roll that fabulous footage:

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“Watch that dock Paul!  We don’t want a scratch on her!”

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“Careful now boys!  She’s expensive!”

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You’ll notice she was still Foxfire at the time.  Having the new name put on was part of the bottom job that needed to be done.

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There she comes!

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I have to say, every time I see her come out of the water like this, her “bottom” all exposed for everyone to see, I feel like she’s showing her undergarments or something.  Like she should cross her legs and blush as if the wind blew her skirt up.

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“Oh my … what a terrible, terrible, yet highly profitable mistake for me to have stepped on this air vent like I did … ”  

But, you see, Marilyn just happened to have some little matching white hot pants on underneath her billowy white dress that fateful night.  Classy lady?  Or well-planned?  My guess is the latter.  Because I’ll tell you, not every woman would happen to be wearing such showy undergarments when the wind blows up her bottoms.  I’ll tell you what some of us got under there.

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BV-Aw4L0B-M

That’s right.  Spanx.  I said it.  Some of us are afraid of what might come “popping out” (Melissa McCarthy is my hero!) if we don’t suck it all in with those magic stretchy wonders.  And, I’ll tell you, Bullock was lucky, because it’s the not-so-embarrassing nude-color ones that sell fast, leaving the rest of us left to scrounge through the plus-size, leprechaun green and neon blue leftovers.

I had to settle for the flaming pink pair:

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“Whoa Nelly!”

But I digress …

The boat was hauled out, her “bottom” exposed for all the world to see, and the boys (and hairy women) at the ship yard set to work, getting her propped up on jacks in the yard so they could get to painting and sanding her.

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Lord it scares me to see her being transported around in that thing.  I keep imagining one of those big fat straps snapping and the boat crashing to the pavement, her keel cracking clean off.  Uhhhh … like a parent watching their kid take off on a bike without training wheels for the first time, except WAY more important.  For the most part, kids heal for free, or at least just at the price of a Band-aid and a “kiss to make it all better.”  Although I don’t think that would work on the boat, I would certainly fall to the pavement and cover her in both all the same.

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But the boys at the shipyard did a great job getting her all secured.  Apparently, they’ve done it a time or two.

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Our broker-turned-friend, Kevin, had recommended we use Brandon Hall with Perdido Sailor to do the bottom work.  http://www.perdidosailor.com/.  Brandon is actually the one we called when our surveyor found the potential leak in the core when she was hauled out for the sea trial, and he was able to give us a rough estimate of the potential repair over the phone that we then used to negotiate the price down.  Certainly a good man to have in your corner.  And, like most boat people, he’s just a great guy, super knowledgeable about all things sailboat and willing to come help with any project, so long as we offer him a beer or three.  That’s pretty much standard “code” anyway.  “Hey man.  Want to come have a beer on the boat?” pretty much means I’ve got a project I could use your help with, and well, let’s just say, we’ve kept the boat fully-stocked with beer provisions since we parked her in Pensacola, and Brandon has helped out with many a-project.

So, with the boat propped up safely in the yard, we started making a fat list of all the things we wanted to do to her while she was out of the water: repair the suspected core leak, check and repair, if necessary, all the through holes and sea cocks, polish all the brightwork, have the name put on the back, etc.  As is always the case with boats – there’s always plenty to do.

But, it was still a special day for you-know-who.  That’s right, the big THREE-ONE (God, I’m old!) and Phillip the Magnificent had planned an exceptional dinner for us that evening: succulent filet topped with lobster tail along with lobster rissoto and (my favorite) sauteed spinach.  We, of course, started with a bread and olive oil course:

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Paired with an exquisite GSM blend.

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And then threw the steaks on the grill.

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I mean, really?  Is there anything this man can’t do?  I am one lucky girl.  Trust me, I know.

He even managed (amid all of our planning, packing and provisioning for the last leg of the Crossing) to surprise me with a gift.

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So, what say you?  A roll-up picnic in-a-bag?  A handy ruck-sack for us to backpack across Europe?  A durable bag to transport dead bodies?  Or smuggle illegal immigrants across the border for a little extra dough, perhaps?

I fancy your thoughts.  Give me your best guess.

May 27, 2013 – Home Again, Home Again

Tired as dogs!  We sat there on the dock for about a half hour, re-living the “best sail of our lives” and re-enacting some of the more ‘harrowing’ and hilarious moments from the initial crossing, in awe, really, that we had finally brought the boat all the way from Charlotte Harbor to Pensacola.  It was almost surreal to see her there, glistening in the sun, at the dock in Pensacola.  The dockmaster came around 8:00 a.m. and put us in a transient slip for the night.  Once she was secure, we started unpacking the boat and looking for a hot shower and a warm meal.  And, of course, what every sailor wants after a big hearty trip?

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You’re darn right!  We were in desperate need of a big hearty drink.  It seems we had adapted quite well to the salt life.  Rum now ran in our blood, calling us the minute we set foot on shore.  Okay, while that’s not entirely true (that gives me the image of a grimy sailor busting into a run-down old wash house, snatching a bottle off the shelf and ripping the cork out with his teeth before he chugs it down), we probably would have done that, had there only been an old run-down driftwood bar at the dock.

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That’s right, pass it this way Sparrow.

Honestly, though.  We just couldn’t stay away from her.  We didn’t quite get that “Ahhh … we’re finally home!” feeling.  It was more like, “Hurry, get cleaned up quick so we can go back and check on the boat!”  We invited some friends over to meet us in the cockpit for drinks and to check out the boat as a ridiculous disguise, but Phillip and I both know we would have spent the evening on the boat friends or not.  We just couldn’t stay away.  So, we headed back down to her, rum drinks in hand.

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Can I get that to go please?

Rum Runner recipe

1 oz Dark or spiced rum
0.5 oz creme de bananes
2 oz orange juice

We like to add a little splash of juice from the maraschino cherry jar to give it that red cherry color, then add a toothpick with cherry and orange slice on top for garnish.  And, the umbrellas are certainly fun.  I got like 500 of them on a buy-one-get-one-free special at Party City months ago so we now find any excuse to stick an umbrella in our drink.  I sometimes stick one in my morning coffee and tell myself I’m sure that’s how they do it in the Islands.  But, I wouldn’t recommend you try it.  Few can really pull that off.

Finally back to tell our story, and now with friends nestled in the cockpit, captivated, begging for tall tales at sea, Phillip and I re-lived our docking in 20 mph winds in Clearwater, our hacking off the dingy in the middle of the Gulf, our 16-hour tack from Panama City to Pensacola, the heroism, the hangovers, the hooker, everything!  And, our tales probably got a little taller on round two (and were probably not recognizable as the truth on round three), but we had a great time telling them.  And, it may have been the nostalgia of home or the rum or a little bit of both, but I honestly think the sun called in a special setting to welcome us back to Pensacola that evening because it was absolutely stunning:

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We all toasted the sunset and enjoyed a wonderful evening on the boat, and Phillip and I knew home was never going to be “home” again if our boat wasn’t there.

May 25, 2013 – The Crossing Finale – Not Very PC

Like Phillip told me, apparently watching others dock is highly entertaining, particularly couples and particularly mouthy ones.  It’s now a favorite past-time for Phillip and I.  If Phillip and I are kicked back in the cockpit at the marina and we see some big troller coming in and hear the Captain shout “Now Linda, I need you to tie the springer line first this time!” (emphasis on first) our ears perk and we elbow each other and silently nod toward the troller because we know we’re about to get a show.

First off, trollers are huge.  They need lines running from every direction to hold them in place.

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Second, we know we’ve got a couple, a highly vocal Captain and a poor ‘Linda’ somewhere who’s scrambling for lines.  We also know this is not the first time they’ve docked together because apparently old Linda didn’t tie the right line first last time and the Captain was displeased.  He then shouted “And make sure to do a cleat hitch, remember!” (emphasis on MEM).  Poor, poor Linda.  A cleat hitch isn’t hard.  It’s just around a couple of times, some swoop loops on each end and pull tight (or that’s how I’ve programmed it into my mind anyway – real technical Annie speak for you), but here ‘tis:

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Sadly, though, it seems our dear friend Linda had been struggling with it.  Poor, poor Linda.  Phillip and I smiled slyly at each other.  Oh yeah, this scenario is fraught with potential.  We are definitely watching and standing ready to hop up and grab a line if Linda botches it.

It seems the good folks of Panama City felt the same about Phillip and I that day, and they, too, were definitely watching.  Thankfully, they were also ready and willing to lend a hand.  As the boat lurched into the slip, an old salt came running down the other side of the dock (apparently the side I should have jumped off on) and had Phillip throw him the stern line.  He told me to jump back on the boat and toss him the bow line, which I did.  I then jumped off, this time with a springer line in hand, and got us nice and secure.  Whew!  No crashed boat, no dock wreckage, and Phillip’s eyes finally returned to normal after an hour or so.  Well, technically after a drink or three.

Having played the role of Let-Down Linda for the day and justifiably displeasing the Captain, as soon as we were showered up and back on the boat, I promptly threw him together a stiff drink.  That always helps!

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Here you go Cap’n.

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Whew.  He smiles.  All better.  

And yes, people, I was wearing a dress.  You can see a little white fluffy sliver of it in the first pic.  I mean, I only jumped off the boat without a line – no damage was done – it warranted a remorseful drink only, not a full-frontal apology, okay?

After drinks on the boat, we set off and and started foraging for drinks on the street.

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Downtown PC was quaint and lively with fun little quirky bars scattered about.  We decided on a place , that being The Place (http://www.theplacerestaurant.net/4543.html)and popped in for a swig.

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The old-timey bar was great (and well-stocked!).  Our bellies full of fine liquor and our “spirits” high, we stumbled on back to the marina to stock up on transmission fluid and hunker down for the night.  Phillip played the domestic role this time and whipped us up an amazing batch of shrimp feta pasta.

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Don’t crowd the onions!

This dish has definitely become a favorite for us on the boat.  The ingredients are fresh and easy:

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Onion, parsley, garlic and shrimp.

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Oh, and butter of course.  That salty, yellow bounty of the gods.  Butter just makes everything better.    

Tossed with fresh tomatoes and pasta.  Super simple and easy to throw together at sea.  (Recipe here: http://havewindwilltravel.com/2013/06/04/april-17-23-2013-the-crossing-chapter-two-sailors-delight/).

And, as it always seems is the case at marinas, we had some front-row seating to some real entertainment while we were making dinner.  While we definitely prefer to anchor out as opposed to docking at a marina (for one, it’s cheaper – the nightly rate on the boat is … ummm … FREE) it is fun sometimes to stay at the marina and watch all the “crazies.”  They’re everywhere.  And, marinas seem to attract a very unique breed of them.  Drifters, so to speak.

While Phillip and I were putting the finishing touches on dinner and setting the table up in the cockpit, we noticed the guy next to us was working on a real project boat.  It was dusty and chalky with tools and buckets and hammers lying everywhere.  A real mess of a boat.  It looked something like this:

Project boat

And he was coated with dirt and paint splatters, sweating and sanding away on the deck.  Then, out of nowhere, we see this woman walking toward his boat.  Well, I take that back we heard her first, very distinct heel clicks coming all the way down the dock.  And, these were some serious heels, wedges I guess you would call them, about yay high:

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Yeah, the crazy kind, that crazy people wear.

Lady Gag in wedges

And when she finally came into view and we could take her in, she looked something like this:

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Yeah … a real fox.  And, paint-splatter guy looked something like this:

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 I know, right?  This scenario was fraught with potential.  We were definitely watching.  Phillip and I slouched down a bit in our cockpit and eyed them furiously over the rims of our rum drinks.  Miss Fox walked right up to his boat, gave him a knowing nod and held her hand out for assistance.  Dirty Dude helped her into the cockpit, no words having been exchanged yet that we could tell, and she turned around and made her way backwards down the steps in the companionway.  Granted, I think that’s the only way you can take steps like that

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in heels like those.

Once she was down below, Dude put his hand in his pocket, pulled out something that I can only describe as “folding money,” fondled it for a minute, then shoved it back in his pocket and followed her down.  Phillip and I shared an excited “inquiring minds want to know” look and kept our eyes on them.  They stayed down for all of 3.5 minutes, give or take, and then she came back up solo (not a smudge of makeup out of place) stepped off his boat and clicked her heels right on down the dock.  Dirty Dude came back up about a minute after, big grin on his face, chugging down some Gatorade and then he set back to work on this boat, like nothing ever happened.  Phillip and I poured over the possibilities.  Was she a hooker, a prostitute?  His dealer, his daughter?  Who the heck knows.  Marinas are so entertaining.  Hell, sailors are entertaining.  This one, in particular, was not very PC.

Phillip and I could not stop chuckling about it as we plated up dinner.

Table for two please?

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This place was super fancy.  We had to make reservations well in advance.  I mean, it was dinner

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AND a foxy show.

We were ready for a relaxing evening after the passage from Carrabelle and we knew we needed a good night’s sleep before we made the last 24-hour run to Pensacola.  We settled into the cockpit, devoured the shrimp pasta and toasted the sunset before calling it a night.

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